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kimgraves
Jul 22, 2003, 6:36 PM
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
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Hi Gang,
I have two questions, but I’ll ask them in two separate posts.
I’m a new leader (actually coming back to climbing after being away for 20 years). I’m having trouble racking my pro. When I was leading 20 years ago I would put each nut on a separate biner. But his is no longer practical – the rack gets too heavy. So my question is how do people organize their racks? E.g. do you put several nuts on a biner so you can slot one and then but the remainder back on your harness. And then keep double biners on the runners?
Anyway, your thoughts and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Kim
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sticky_fingers
Jul 22, 2003, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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Definitely. I put about 4-5 similar sized nuts on an oval biner, but each cam gets a biner. Not that you should "do what everybody else does", but you can look at pictures of trad climbers to get an idea of how they rack. Ultimately, you'll find something that works (well/efficiently) for you.
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rrrADAM
Jul 22, 2003, 6:48 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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As my friends will attest, I am "Stopper Man", as I have about 65 BD Stoppers. I rack mine, two sets (with many tripled in each set) 2-9 and 9-13, so I have sets on the left and right sides of me. Everything goes on my harness, stoppers in the front with draws, and cams in the back. I now have 31 cams, but still mainly place passive pro.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=1711
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maculated
Jul 22, 2003, 7:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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Each nut on a separate biner? Yeesh.
Adam's got the right idea. The one thing I'd suggest is getting Petzl spirits for nuts. The nut wires just glide on out. No sticking, easy to rerack, etc.
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troutboy
Jul 22, 2003, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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In reply to: Each nut on a separate biner? Yeesh. Adam's got the right idea. The one thing I'd suggest is getting Petzl spirits for nuts. The nut wires just glide on out. No sticking, easy to rerack, etc.
A popular idea and one I've tried for the last 5-6 years. I'm finally going back to a regular 'biner because I'm tired of 2-3 nuts coming off when I try to use one :D . It's a bit too easy for the nuts to come off the Spirit. Or maybe it's the old age palsy catching up to me.
TS
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ricardol
Jul 22, 2003, 7:16 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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i rack the following way
Nuts - 1 set divived into 2 biners -- i dont use the keygate biners because its too easy for the whole lot to slide out when you make a mistake .. i've had the notch on the biner save my nuts on occasion.
Cams - 1 cam per biner. nuf said.
Slings - all my slings are shoulder length slings tripled , and each have 2 biners on them.
when i carry tricams i put about 3 tricams per biner.
carry a few spare biners (about 4) all racked on one biner.
the whole thing fits nicely on my harness. -
when i carry cordallettes they are racked on 1 large locking biner. (1 biner per cordallete)
when i carry double length slings, each is racked across my chest with a locking biner keeping it in place. -- this way when i build an anchor i already have a locking biner for the master point.
-- ricardo
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hoppinbig
Jul 22, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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Here's my racking technique - how one person does it might not work for you...
I have a Corax harness so 4 gear loops...
Right side Front loop - Cams: smallest in the front getting bigger towards the back (if you are placing a large cam you probably have a good hold so having these behind you is fine).
Left side Front loop - nuts (smallest in the front) have WC Rocks - #1-5 on a biner 6-10 on another and a 3rd biner with doubles in the #1-6). Tricams on the rear left loop- if you are going to place a tricam you are probably at a good stance so it doesnt have to be easily accessable.
Back left loop - short runners in the front long onesbehind that
Back right loop long runners in the front - cordelette and locking biners all hanging off one locker and my atc behind that...
Figure out the system that works best for you and rack up the SAME way everytime - this way when you are pumped on a climb and hanging there you don't waste unnecessary energy looking for gear..
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petsfed
Jul 22, 2003, 8:05 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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I spread the stoppers (for fear of a bad "nut" pun) over 4 keylock type biners. Has nothing to do with how the stoppers go on or off, but rather how the whole thing comes off the gear loop. Depending on the cam size, I'll put one or two cams to each keylock biner. Rack most everything on my harness, with about equal loads on each side. Having a whole set of cams on one side just sounds scary to me. So usually I'll have aliens on one side, the #1, 2 and 3 camalots on the other side, then the 3.5 on the back gear sling on one side and the #4 on the other side. The actual orientation varies from climb to climb (it changes if I don't need the #4 for example). My father used the old carabiner to each piece convention, but with the addition of runners, the speed issue was rendered effectively moot. On top of that, his rack (now my rack) was waaaay fat with just a set of rocks and a set of hexes. Too much.
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markc
Jul 22, 2003, 8:31 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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I have a Misty Mountain harness with six gear loops. I rack on my harness, so the extra loops come in handy. Here's how I prefer to rack everything:
Right front: My set of nuts is broken up onto two biners. My tricams (smallest two) go on their own biner behind the nuts. I rack on standard ovals, and the notch has definitely saved a nut or two. A friend uses spirits, which I like, but I can't justify the expense for racking biners.
Right rear: Hexes are divided onto two biners, with 5 - 8 on one and 9 - 11 on the other.
Left loops: Cams, racked from smallest to largest. The larger cams get their own biners, but I actually like having a couple smaller cams per biner.
My "in case of emergency" biner goes on the lower right rear loop. I carry a good length of super tape, a couple rap rings, a knife, and a tiblock, as well as a couple spare ovals. The lower left loop usually holds my belay device and a few lockers.
Slings are all racked on a gear sling, with longer slings tripled. I carry 15, with two shorties, 11 2-footers, and 2 4-footers. The cordelette goes across the shoulder, as well. I prefer to keep the weight of pro on my harness rather than swinging around. YMMV.
mark
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trad_mike
Jul 22, 2003, 9:21 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
Posts: 96
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Kong keylock ovals rock for racking nuts. Same kind of gate as Petzl Spirits, no sticking, and larger than BD ovals.
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trapdoor
Jul 22, 2003, 10:27 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 183
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I second Kong ovals. There great.
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