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moderate sport crag destination?
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delphyne


Jul 24, 2003, 3:43 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
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moderate sport crag destination?
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I'm looking for recommendations for a sport climbing crag with a large number of moderate routes. I'm leading 9's these days (might get to low 10's by the end of the season), and my climbing partner (jinn) leads 11's and is working on 12's. We're looking for somewhere to go for an extended (5-7 day) trip, preferably within about a day's drive of Cleveland, but not necessarily. We frequent the New River Gorge on weekends, and are looking for some variety, given the freedom of driving further.

Given that jinn is likely to find plenty in his range wherever we go, where could we find a good population of routes for me to climb as well?

thanks,

Heidi


leaverbiner


Jul 24, 2003, 3:55 PM
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Re: moderate sport crag destination? [In reply to]
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delphyne, you and Jinn should consider going to the Red . . . a lot more climbs for both of you to check out . . . the problem is that the Red is even hotter than the New this time of year. Otherwise, consider ehading west to Wild Iris or North to Lion's Head in Ontario . .. Rumney is an option too, but the bugs this time of year will eat you alive.


tradmanclimbs


Jul 24, 2003, 4:10 PM
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Re: moderate sport crag destination? [In reply to]
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rumny is one of the best spurt cags anywere for moderats. tuns of climbs in the 5.7 through 5.10 range. the bug season is past the peak and shouldn't be too bad right now? bugs are fine here in vt but I havn't been to nh in a few weeks. I do plan on getting over to cannon this week so will let you know 8)


delphyne


Jul 24, 2003, 4:57 PM
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Re: moderate sport crag destination? [In reply to]
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leaverbiner,

I've always been under the impression that the Red is great for sport 11's and 12's, but quite thin in the 9 range. I've been there once last season, but didn't get many climbs in, and no leading (though I did hike up the Indian Staircase in the middle of the night!). I will get there sometime this season, but it's only about a half hour further than the New, so it wouldn't require an extra long trip. Thanks for the suggestion though!


yami


Jul 24, 2003, 5:43 PM
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I would recommend Wild Iris in Lander, Wyoming or Maple Canyon in Nephi, Utah. Both are great sport destinations and there are a lot of climbs in your range. Utah may be too far to go but I wanted to throw that out for you to consider. Have a great trip!


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