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debbyr
Jul 27, 2003, 4:58 AM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2003
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Without paying for a guide or taking up alot of an experienced climber's time, how do you learn technique? I'm finding that I can do up to 5.8, but when the holds get thin and the climb is steep or worse yet, overhanging I'm not making it. Any suggestions?
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desertclimber
Jul 27, 2003, 5:11 AM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2003
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Definitely go bouldering outside and in the gym. Find someone that can show you new ways to move using certain holds or body positions... Watch smooth climbers making their moves. That can really help. Sometimes the only way to make harder moves is with proper technique! I've seen strong guys try to power through moves, and look silly, then a girl dances up the route with amazing technique, balance, and grace. I love it when that happens! *grin*
It's difficult to learn how to move, or keep your body in the correct position if you continuously try the same thing over and over. Try something new each time, & you'll find something that works for you on that particular move... maybe imitate another's movements that looked fluid like. And... find a patient friend to climb with and teach you. (It's so hard to SAY how to move- you know?)
Cheers!
Ian.
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duskerhu
Jul 27, 2003, 5:17 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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Spend some time watching other climbers, and then, try and imitate some of the same moves you notice them making. Even if you're just bouldering.
duskerhu
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bigga
Jul 27, 2003, 5:51 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2002
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I reckon desertclimber is right on the money!
One thing to add. Go to your local indoor and traverse. Just traverse.
I was climbing for about a year and it seemed my climbing got up to a certain level and hardly increased no matter how much I climbed. I told this to the guy who runs the local gym wall and he told me to just traverse. Instead of going up and down I would spend a huge amount of time traversing. The results were amazing. Not only did my finger streangth improve greatly, but my teqnique improved more in three months of traversing than in the whole previous year of climbing. I went to the crags and found that things that I wouldn't think of doing I was now redpointing without breaking a sweat.
Try it, results are garanteed
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apollodorus
Jul 27, 2003, 6:02 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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"You can observe alot just by watching." - Yogi Berra
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overlord
Jul 28, 2003, 3:01 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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go to a gym and start bouldering. do some traverses and downclimb some routes. downclimbing really helps with footwork and balance.
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rrrADAM
Jul 28, 2003, 3:11 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Wath others, ask, and climb a lot... Focus on feet and body position.
Remember... 10% hands and 90% feet.
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flyinghatchet
Jul 28, 2003, 3:54 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
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fInD cReAtIvE rEsTs. Just because you're pumped and there aren't 2 jugs for your feet doesn't mean you can't find a rest. I may be new, but I found that out FAST.
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sillymnkee
Jul 28, 2003, 3:59 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2002
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Also, when climbing, try to be as smooth and fluid as possible. Make your movements seems like you're submerged in water. That helped me fix a lot of my sloppy, jerky bad technique.
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chalkyfingers
Jul 28, 2003, 4:56 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
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Watching climbers who are better than you, and trying to replicate their movements with lots of practice bouldering and traversing, is the most sure-fire way to improve. I also like to look at pictures and diagrams to get ideas for climbing techniques. Pictures are great because if the people climbing are good enough to get their pictures published, they probably have pretty good technique. Check out books like Sport Climbing by John Long, since these often have nice pictures that serve as illustrations for the techniques being described in the text. Do a Google search on rock climbing technique, and you'll find some websites with stick figures doing rock moves. Books and websites can be great for getting ideas that you can practice and discuss with other climbers.
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