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quietseas
Jul 29, 2003, 5:02 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 31
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Hello all,
I am going on a trip to the New River Gorge soon, (August 4th) and was wondering if anybody had any advice on routes that are a "must do". I am climbing easy 11's on toprope and am comfortable with leading easy 10's. If there are any classics around this level or even lower, i would appreciate hearing.
Oh, also, good spots to get post climbing day food? How is camping? And if anybody has any other advice it would be more than welcome!
Thanks Alot.
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jhump
Jul 29, 2003, 5:10 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2002
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"Easy" 10's: The Entertainer, Burning Calves, Team Jesus, Springboard, Celibate Mallard, The Undeserved
"Easy" 11's: Leave it to Jesus, Welcome to Beauty, Air, Chasin the Wind.
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danl
Jul 29, 2003, 5:18 PM
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Registered: Nov 12, 2001
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10's two tone arete, black and tan arete, the orange oswald wall will be crowded but has alot of good 10's, second burning calves
11's wild seed, maximum over drive while the first pitch of chasing the wind is forgetable the second pitch is to die for.
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bumblie
Jul 29, 2003, 5:42 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Check this out.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=373791&highlight=#373791
For 5.10 sport, go to Summersville Lake and Butcher's Branch. Get there early - beat the crowds.
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leaverbiner
Jul 29, 2003, 5:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
Posts: 482
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There are one or two other posts with this info. but here it goes . . .
Camping - a number of options depending on what you want - Roger's (a.k. Rocky Top Retreat) a Miguels style camping situation, primarily climbers on a sloped field ($5/person) If you like a lot of spray from climbers around a communal fire this is the place to be. Chestnut Creek - more private and secluded, nice shower houses ($8/person) Mountain State - More rafters than climbers, individual sites, decent showers, but more noise and drinking. Many other rafting campgrounds that are basically all out parties at night.
Food - Summersville has tons of options. Musts include Cathedral Cafe for breakfast (downtown Fayetteville, right near the gear shop), Dirty Ernie's good ribs but not as cheap as you would expect, Rio Grande good mexican food, excellent margaritas and cheap as hell!
Climbs - (first, beware, people have suggested some climbs that are NOT sport routes! I will presume if you are heading to the New you want sport recommendations) 10's - (Summersville) Scoot Your Muffin, She Got the Bosch I got Drilled (Kaymoor) The Green Piece, Rico Suave (fern Butress) Two Tone Arete (Endless) Exoduster, Glass Onion, Strike a Scowl - 11's (Summersville) Satisfaction Guaranteed, Under the Milky Way (11d - but a fantastic Climb) (kaymoor) Mo' BettaHolds, Lost Souls (11d/12a but again a great climb), Scenic Adult (if long routes are your thing) (fern Buttress) Wild Seed, Mega Jug, Musclebelly (endless) Legacy, Discumbobulated, Aesthetica
If you want more info. drop me a PM - I'm down there most weekends so I may be able to show you around as well.
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quietseas
Jul 29, 2003, 8:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
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thanks guys! Awesome info! leaver, i'll definitely drop you a PM
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