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markanite
Jul 29, 2003, 8:43 PM
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well I have a date that wants to go climbing ... now that part is great. The prob. is that I am 170 is she is tops 100 (I am guessing ... whatever 5'5'ish and very skinny).
If I make a sturdy ground anchor and attach her to this will this be safe. She has experience belaying. But I can't imagine her NOT flying in the air every time I even put my weight on the rope (without a ground anchor).
Have u dealt with this prob b4? If so what was ur solution?
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sillymnkee
Jul 29, 2003, 8:48 PM
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I have no problem doing this on TR. I usually just anchor them to a tree or a rock. But I'd have second thoughts about anchoring when you're on lead. If you will need a dynamic belay, it won't work so well.
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leaverbiner
Jul 29, 2003, 8:49 PM
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O.k. - first, this has been discussed many times, so for future queries just do a quick search . . . but to give you a straight answer while I'm here, it's really not a big deal if all you are doing is Tr'ing . . . sure an anchor won't hurt, but even without an anchor if her belay is attentive (thus no slack in the line) she will be able to remain relatively stable. If you are concerned, go ahead tie her off to a tree. If you are leading, then her lack of weight can actually help - wihout any effort she will be able to provide a dynamic belay (if you are leading trad, just be very careful and sure of your first directional/oppositional piece so that when she is yanked she doesn't zipper your gear) she will be able to simply hold on for the ride while youg et a nice soft catch.
BTW - COOL date if you ask me. Have fun.
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hatice
Jul 29, 2003, 11:54 PM
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I had a buddy belay me at my local gym once (hes not my regular climbing partner, but i was just there bouldering around that day) but ne ways.. hes about 100 pounds (no joke) and im about 160 he had no problem tr'ing for me he was tied off but even after a big fall he only was raised about 6 inches. Oh yeah man thats the way to go on a date, show off your strength to your new lady :wink:
-Cheers, Graham
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dynosaur
Jul 30, 2003, 1:17 AM
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I once climbed with this 100kg guy (220lb) - I'm a puny 62kg (135lb). I'd been climbing with him before and had belayed him on TR without any problems. Well we went sport climbing one time - I led a route and he decided to toprope it. There wasn't anywhere available to anchor off at the bottom, so I didn't bother. I was using a grigri.
He was about a third of the way up... I had let a bit of slack creep into the line... he fell... the rope came tight. Then to my surprise I started lifting off! Before I knew it, I was about 6m up the climb and my partner had gently touched down on the ground :shock:! I released the grigri and rapped down the rope back to the ground.
In retrospect I guess we were a bit lucky. He hit the ground very gently and I didn't hit anything on the way up. We were both a bit shaken but ok. It was certainly a lesson for me though. I think the problem of our weight difference was compounded by slack in the rope, the use of a grigri and a very stretchy rope.
Have a great date! :wink:
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climber49er
Jul 30, 2003, 1:38 AM
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I outweight my wife about 205 to 130 or so.
I don't think she really needs an anchor but she is waaaay more comfortable having it. Her comfortable=Me secure.
She likes the added benefit of belaying directly off the anchor at times rather than have me ripping the harness through her crotch.
I say, set up an anchor. If she doesn't want it she'll let you know. Either way you score points for being considerate of her. Not to mention that you will potentially be safer.
Have fun.
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sixter
Jul 30, 2003, 1:41 AM
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In reply to: But I'd have second thoughts about anchoring when you're on lead. If you will need a dynamic belay, it won't work so well.
Excuse my ignorance, but isn't giving a dynamic belay one of the reasons to use an ATC while belaying a lead climber while anchored?
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deleted
Deleted
Jul 30, 2003, 3:32 AM
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[quote:5c235452c9="sillymnkee"]I have no problem doing this on TR. I usually just anchor them to a tree or a rock. But I'd have second thoughts about anchoring when you're on lead. If you will need a dynamic belay, it won't work so well.[/quote:5c235452c9]
well, sh*t-howdy! when i'm four or five pitches off the deck my belayer is ALWAYS tied into the (multi-directional) anchor. i guess i've been doing it wrong for over thirty years! :lol:
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charley
Jul 30, 2003, 7:46 PM
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The folks I climb multi-pitch trad with anchor the belayer. In response to the original ques. Anchor the belayer. I was being belayed by a friend who weighs about 60 lbs. less than I. I ask him about anchoring even though we were doing laps on a 25' easy route. I grabbed a handful of moss at the top of the far right climb. It was a dynamic rope and I ended up touching a log at the bottom of the climb and my friend traveled 4'-5' and smacked the wall with his shoulder. We were both ok but his shoulder hit hard enough to hurt. He had lowered me fine from the top of the other two climbs.
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robmcc
Jul 30, 2003, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: Have u dealt with this prob b4? If so what was ur solution?
There's only one possible right thing to do when you see a guy with an attractive girl he doesn't know what to do with. Steal her. :lol:
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markanite
Jul 31, 2003, 2:32 PM
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In reply to: There's only one possible right thing to do when you see a guy with an attractive girl he doesn't know what to do with. Steal her. :lol:
Haha ... good luck.
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robmcc
Jul 31, 2003, 3:03 PM
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In reply to: Haha ... good luck.
Actually my girlfriend-stealing luck has been pretty awful for a long time now. It's just as well. I don't think the wife'd take it well if I had a girlfriend. :P
Having teased you, I'll give a real answer, too. Yeah, just anchor her. I outweigh my belayer by 50+, down from a high of 70 not too long ago. Me: 220 (max), him: 150. Even TR falls would often pull him up. This is all the more true if she's never been climbing. You fall, she flies, panics and drops you. Probably not the end to the date you're hoping for.
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robbovius
Jul 31, 2003, 3:21 PM
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I weigh 190 and my partner weighs 95. she anchors to rocks and trees and expects the ride when , not if, it happens. now she kind of enjoys it. this is TR only.
as long as your belayer locks off and holds when you peel everything will be fine. she just has to wait until the ride is over before doing anything ;-).
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uncertaintyprinciple
Jul 31, 2003, 4:09 PM
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I concur with above posts:
Anchor the belayer. I was leading in the gym (yikes), blew off while going for the clip on this big roof (third or fourth - don't remember). Fell with maybe ten feet of slack in the rope. Outweighed my belayer by fifty pounds or so. Stopped about six feet from deck. No anchor probably would have meant a ground fall, or very close to it. I like belay anchors, though you can do without on top-rope if you choose.
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cracksniffer
Jul 31, 2003, 4:18 PM
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In reply to: O.k. - first, this has been discussed many times, so for future queries just do a quick search . . .
Aw, c'mon. What gear or ropework related question HASN'T been discussed until its ends are frayed.
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tahquitztwo
Jul 31, 2003, 8:56 PM
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Use an anchor and be sure to use a directional before you start up a multipitch. I used to climb with a guy who weighed 240 to my 105....he took a 35 footer on a climb and it pulled me off my feet but the anchor and the directional held...lucky for him...he was only 3 feet off the deck when his last piece held :shock:
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