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ken
Jul 30, 2003, 1:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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I have never been to summersville to climb. I climb in the 5.7 to 5.9(on a good day) range, usually on a TR.(have limited bolt clipping here in Ohio and to new for trad lead) Was wondering what area might be a good place to start out at. I was also wondering about camping in the area. Planning a trip for Aug10-13. Also wondered about how well dogs are recived in the area. Have a great lab named Star who loves to hang out and meet good people, but I know sometimes mans best friend it not welcome. Just want to respect others space! Any Beta would be great. Thnx Ken
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t_nut
Jul 30, 2003, 2:28 PM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
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there are probably 5 or so .8's @ summersville... double that in the .9 range... anything easier is trad... the new is huge though... get rick thompson's guidebook for the most coverage of everything but summersville... i think steve cater (not sure of name) also has a pretty comprehensive guide out which does cover summersville, too. well behaved dogs are welcome, but i hope he can climb ladders. people carry their dogs down the ladder @ summersville and i've heard rumors of some 'special' dogs that can climb it themselves. summersville's ladder is only about 15 feet... you could probably rig your boy a harness and lower him... the guides will tell you about other ladders (@endless) which require a substantial approach to avoid... camping is plentifully available... we usually stay @ roger's in fayetteville (25 or so miles south of summersville, nice ride though, watch for the cops/speedtraps)... you'll meet plenty of climbers/paddlers there... not very secluded but fun + roger's full of beta on most any topic... 5 bucks/person/night... there's plenty of other camping between there and summersville including free camping under the dam (gauley @ summersville) but the gear shop is and most climbers stay around fayetteville (it's closer to most crags... roger's is right on top of kaymoor) whatever you do, you'll have a blast... enjoy
todd
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ouflyboy9
Jul 30, 2003, 2:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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I would suggest starting at Orange Oswald Wall...I believe that's what it is called...if not it's something close...there's a climb down there called hippie dreams 5.7 i think.....anyway there are some other moderate climbs just to the left and right of that route....the new is also cool but route finding can be difficult depending where you are going..have fun dude..
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leaverbiner
Jul 30, 2003, 3:23 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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Ken, there was another post about this just the other day, take a look there for camping info etc . . . but as for routes here it goes . . .
The New is not very accomodating to those climbing below 5.10 unless you are willing to set up TR's . . . Summersville does not provide great opportunities for TR setups, but it does have 5 or so routes that are below 5.10 . . . Jeff's Bunny Hop, Sniff the Drill, That Eight, Hippie Dreams and at least one other.
If you are up for setting up TR's check out JunkYard Wall . . it is a very popular TR and Trad destination, but not the most asthetic part of the New . . . Steve Cater's guidebook is the only one that covers Summersville, but Rick Thompson's guide is much more detailed for those lookign toset up Tr's on Trad routes at the other locations. Both are available at Waterstone the local gear shop in Fayetteville
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jman
Jul 30, 2003, 3:27 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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You can also find a quick topo on drtopo.com, not as detailed as the Steve Carter's book and does not list trad climbs.
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