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cgranite
Aug 6, 2003, 2:15 AM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2003
Posts: 366
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I've started trad and I'm stoked that I can now climb Yosemite correctly. Currently I have only passive pro and I want to building a setup that will be perfect for Yosemite since it's so close, and I plan on moving there for next summer.
So I need to buy what works best there. I'm mainly asking about the cams since I have a lot of passive.
My rack so far:
3-13 BD stoppers (doubles on 6-9)
7-11 BD Hexes
A set of bronze HB offsets
I have my ideas, but I want to know what others think.
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crackaddict
Aug 6, 2003, 3:57 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
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Well if you are going there just to freeclimb and not aid. Sounds like all you need is a set of BD Camalots and a set of Aliens.
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epic_ed
Aug 6, 2003, 5:35 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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Ditto the Aliens and Camelots. For trad, Aliens from blue to red. Camelots from .75 (green) to #4 (purple).
Doubles in every size where possible. Triples in each size and mix in some Hybrid Aliens if you start getting into aid.
Better yet, go there and climb a while and you'll figure out what works best for you.
Ed
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sprtclimber
Aug 6, 2003, 6:58 AM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 40
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What is better, hexes or cams, on granite? On 5.7+ routes.
A friend of mine, who is teaching me trad never uses the hexes he has.
Are hexes a waste of money?
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tarzan420
Aug 6, 2003, 7:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 678
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What is better? - I don't know, depends on the placement
Are hexes a waste? - Depends on who you ask - I think not, After using them for the first time two weeks ago I really like them - It could just be that i'm more comfortable placing passive pro than active. Do you use your friends hexes? If so, then they're probably not a waste. If not, maybe...
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joshklingbeil
Aug 12, 2003, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 403
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I take my hexes when im on a long multi pitch.Use them at belays or good stances to save the cams for the hard part of the climb.
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simzboardr
Aug 14, 2003, 12:39 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 232
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hey man i found it tough to have a perfect yosemite rack. recently i just took a trip out from my hometown in PA to go give big wall a shot and found myself on some crack climbs. im really glad i was into bigwall becasue i used up to three of the same cam on one route. if your out to crack climb good luck with the gear, your gonna need a lot of it. Try camp tri cams, some people like them some don't, i personally need to get more they're great.
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