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jimmyjamal
Aug 27, 2003, 5:54 AM
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Ok, people are always saying how important anchors are and all that and how they should be bomb proof. for a inter collage day i went and did rock climbing in the gorge, we were with two very very experianced climbers and some others who had some experiance, heres the thing, we didn't use anchors and we were top roping. i didn't say anything at the time because it never really clicked and when someone fell it seemed to work even if you got a mass wedgie??? so why make anchors "bomb proof if they arn't needed, or are they? please enlighten me.
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hellclimber
Aug 27, 2003, 6:01 AM
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I don't get it. If you were not using anchors, then what were you top roping through? Something has to keep the rope up there.
And what do anchors have to do with wedgies?
hellclimber
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venezuela
Aug 27, 2003, 6:11 AM
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o.k....
you we're top-roping, without anchors?!?!?!?!, :?
I'm the one who needs enlightment, then!!!
sorry, If I'm not much help, but I'm not clear....what do you mean when you say "anchors"?? anchors are systems that consists of minimun 2 points of protection, and are set up for varios reasons: one of them "top-roping"
I know that I may have not helped much.....but, feel free to PM me if you want, o.k?
Diego.
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karmaklimber
Aug 27, 2003, 6:11 AM
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In reply to: we didn't use anchors and we were top roping.
I'm confused. Isn't it inherent in the definition of a toprope that the point of protection is afixed above you? So if you're not using an anchor, how could it be a toprope situation?
I think you might be the one in need of elaboration for the sake of enlightenment....
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gyngve
Aug 27, 2003, 6:20 AM
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Sometimes a good stance (e.g. sitting down and feet braced against rock/snow) is all that is needed (or even available) to belay up a follower... best if the belay is more dynamic than not. Mostly used in the alpine on moderate terrain... not sure why they were doing it for top-roping at a crag? At any rate, since this is the beginner's forum, always anchor in! :)
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jimmyjamal
Aug 27, 2003, 7:45 AM
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right, so an anchor is at the top, i thought an anchor was what the belayer tyed into at the bottom, obcoures there was a couple of biners in bolts at the top, see the belayer at the bottom wasn't tyed down to anything, just had the rope going through the atc.
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arkangel
Aug 27, 2003, 7:51 AM
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Uhm........ Hmm...... I think...... T2:-)
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apollodorus
Aug 27, 2003, 7:58 AM
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"Anchor" means solid pieces. If you TR'd with anchors up top, but nothing for the belayer, you did nothing that was particularly dangerous. Except that the belayer could have been pulled off-balance into the rock, etc.
It's much better to have the belayer anchored in, as well. For example, if the belayer needed to tie off the rope to go for help or otherwise get off the rope, he/she would have had to build the anchor first.
Use the lower anchor. Most of the time, it's as trivial as slinging a big rock, tree or setting some pieces.
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jimmyjamal
Aug 27, 2003, 9:53 AM
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Why thankyou for your post, it has enlightend me.
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hellclimber
Aug 27, 2003, 12:33 PM
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It isn't quite as simple as apollodorus claims. Look at this thread for a discussion on the topic of anchoring in at belay. Be careful taking advice from an internet site. The source isn't necessarily a good one...
Happy climbing
hellclimber
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charley
Aug 27, 2003, 1:46 PM
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I go about 230 lbs. I have lifted belayers off their feet, swung them 8', and slammed them into the rock. When I climb my belayer is anchored!!!
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flynnypek
Aug 27, 2003, 2:10 PM
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jimmyjamal:
I suggest you read Freedom of the Hills to understand the basics on rock-climbing... :wink:
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redpoint73
Aug 27, 2003, 2:11 PM
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From what I can decipher, jimmyjamal is asking why the toprope (TR) BELAYER was not anchored to something. Obviously, the TR was anchored at the top, otherwise it would not have been a TR, it would have been a free solo!
It is very common to not anchor the belayer in a TR setup. Anchoring the belayer is not absolutely neccessary in all cases for a TR setup. It can be helpful if the climber weighs significantly more than the belayer, or if the belayer is unskilled and may be caught by a surprise fall. Of couse, if the belayer is standing on a ledge, on top of a slab, or other unstable stance, then anchoring is a good idea. Otherwise, the belayer can usually very easily control the falls using a good stance, good positioning, etc. Obviously, if you are using an anchor for the belayer, it should be bomber or secure. Otherwise there is no point.
What I mentioned only applies to top roping. Belaying a lead climber, or multi-pitch climbing carry different requirements that you will learn later.
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dontfall
Aug 27, 2003, 2:14 PM
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troll? bs? head stuck in a@!? dosen't know anything about climbing?
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fear
Aug 27, 2003, 2:29 PM
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:troll:
-Fear
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pehperboy
Aug 27, 2003, 3:17 PM
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:troll: :troll: :troll:
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redpoint73
Aug 27, 2003, 6:43 PM
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Stop stealing someone else's troll photo. You probably don't even know where its located.
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jimmyjamal
Aug 27, 2003, 10:34 PM
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Thanks alot for the imput fella's
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phyreman
Aug 27, 2003, 10:58 PM
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The main reason for anchoring a belayer (other than when the climber weighs a lot more than the belayer), so to make it easier for the belayer to tie-off and escape the system to go for help if something bad happens.
As has already been said, go read Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills for great info on setting up anchors/climbing in general. For more specific information on escaping a system check out 'Self Rescue' a Falcon Guide in the 'How To Rock Climb Series'
Nate
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tenn_dawg
Aug 28, 2003, 2:27 AM
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In reply to: Stop stealing someone else's troll photo. You probably don't even know where its located.
Click "View More Emoticons" when you are typing a post. A little box pops up with MORE emoticons!
The troll is one of those. There is no thievery going on around here...
Travis
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