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maria
Aug 27, 2003, 3:14 PM
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whats your favorite trad climbing destination in the US? and why?
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maculated
Aug 27, 2003, 3:21 PM
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I would have to say Red Rocks. Maybe I haven't found as exciting moves in J Tree and Yosemite, but Red Rocks' features were incredible, the rock was solid, and the climbing was balancy from what I found. All my favorite stuff in the world.
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the_pirate
Aug 27, 2003, 3:30 PM
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Seneca Rocks WV. Awesome rock, good pro, fabulous exposure, great people.
The Gunks Awesome rock, challenging pro, fabulous exposure, great people (mid week that is).
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 27, 2003, 3:32 PM
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Red rocks is awsome for long moderate trad. pretty cool to tear up vegas after a couple of dayze climbing in the desert. Seneca WV is my favorite for the awsome exposure, beautifull setting cool camping scene, friendly people and again lots of multi pitch moderates. the gunks rock on with thouands of stellar lines at all grades, free camping but a bit of a hectic scene as so close to the city. You will get robbed there if you stay long enough. Keene valley in the daks rules for its serinity as well as the great climbing and swimming. Cathedral rules with short approach and stellar granit. What can I say?It's all good 8)
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holmeslovesguinness
Aug 27, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Out of the places I have been so far my favorites are Lovers Leap, CA and Lumpy Ridge, CO. Both are great places for beginning to intermediate trad leaders, both are in beautiful mountain settings.
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bandycoot
Aug 27, 2003, 3:43 PM
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Home stomping ground: Tahquitz and Joshua Tree
Best overall trad I've done: Needles (I'm headed there this weekend!)
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crankenstein
Aug 27, 2003, 4:02 PM
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I'll second the recommendations for Lover's Leap and Lumpy Ridge. Lover's Leap has some of the most incredible features that I have climbed and Lumpy Ridge is just a great all around trad area!
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pbjosh
Aug 27, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Overall favorite: Indian Creek
Where I spend the most time: Joshua Tree
Most inspiring/awesome: Needles
Must casual: Red Rocks
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rrrADAM
Aug 27, 2003, 4:27 PM
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As I replied in the many other threads asking this same question:
The Gunks, hands down the best. And I have climbed in Eldo, Devil's Tower, Yosemite / Tuolumne, Tahquitz / Suicide, and Jtree among many other places.
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maria
Aug 27, 2003, 4:32 PM
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i'm sorry, if there already were topics like this, I couldn't find any. I only saw questions about a specific area, or favorite routes.
btw, my favorite is the gunks as well, because of the variety of the climbs.
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rrrADAM
Aug 27, 2003, 4:34 PM
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No worries. :wink:
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camhead
Aug 27, 2003, 5:34 PM
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Indian Creek. Runners up: Yosemite, Paradise Forks, Turkey Rocks.
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t-dog
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Aug 27, 2003, 5:46 PM
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Taquitz has a lot of really nice cracks.
J-Tree is the bomb, but it bites a lot
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telluryan
Aug 27, 2003, 5:56 PM
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ophir wall, CO
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petsfed
Aug 27, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Eldo, wish I could go climbing more often when I visit my parents.
Edit:
Upon further consideration, Indian Creek. Hell, the whole Moab area (yes, even Wall Street).
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pico23
Aug 27, 2003, 6:47 PM
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Daks...Cause it's spread out over 6 million acres and I can lose the crowds. I've been known to hike 6 miles or more to climb a 60 foot 5.5 so leaving crowds behind is a important thing to me. Of course if you want crowds Keene Valley or Cascade Pass is the place to go. Beer Walls and other cliffs nearby are generally crowded on the weekends. The rest of the park has cliffs scattered here and there and does a good job dispersing climbers.
Other then that there isn't anyplace else in the east quite as diverse. I've been on classics without a chalk mark on any of the pitches. Bolts, trad, aid, friction slabs, overhanging, roofs, climbed rarely and climbed often classic climbs, it's all there. I can climb literal roadside (i'm talking the car is not more then 500 feet from the climb), then do strenuous but short approach just a 1/2 mile in, and then do a remote grade III 6 miles in, and everything in between, all in a 50 mile radius. But that isn't the extent of the climbing. Climbing starts as far south as exit 23 on the Northway and goes all the way to Azure Mountain in the north western portion of the park.
That said if you consider the Gunks your ideal climbing venue you might not be too thrilled with the Daks. A lot of people have trouble making the transition from smooth gravel roads and well marked and described routes to basically not only having to find the cliff but then having to find the approach to the climb. And the guide book is vague at best. sometimes a 3 pitch climb is described in a sentence or two. So if you think the Swain book is vague you'd probably hate the Mellor book. And while the rock in the Daks is very good and really grippy you will find many more lose holds and death blocks then you would find at the Gunks. And with limited (generally no) cell phone coverage you are on your own.
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the_pirate
Aug 27, 2003, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: the guide book is vague at best. sometimes a 3 pitch climb is described in a sentence or two. So if you think the Swain book is vague you'd probably hate the Mellor book. And while the rock in the Daks is very good and really grippy you will find many more lose holds and death blocks then you would find at the Gunks. And with limited (generally no) cell phone coverage you are on your own.
hmmm...... Me thinks we just found a new place to try out.....
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curt
Aug 27, 2003, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: As I replied in the many other threads asking this same question: The Gunks, hands down the best. And I have climbed in Eldo, Devil's Tower, Yosemite / Tuolumne, Tahquitz / Suicide, and Jtree among many other places.
I have been climbing many other places as well over the last 25 or so years. I agree that no place comes close to the Gunks.
Curt
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climber1
Aug 28, 2003, 5:36 AM
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Jtree
Red Rocks
Sierra
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texplorer
Sep 9, 2003, 8:12 PM
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Yosemite is Mecca!
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rockmx
Sep 9, 2003, 8:37 PM
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J. Tree
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 9, 2003, 9:32 PM
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#1 The Needles for atmosphere
Tuolumne for beauty
Joshua tree for time
paradise forks for uniqueness
Indian creek
cochise stronghold
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crackaddict
Sep 9, 2003, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: Indian Creek. Runners up: Yosemite, Paradise Forks, Turkey Rocks.
Ditto! Except I have never been to Turkey rocks. But I will take camheads word on it since he and I like most the same areas.
I would also add Red Rocks, Cochise Stronghold, and, Granite Mountain to my list.
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vegastradguy
Sep 9, 2003, 10:28 PM
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i love Red Rocks for sure for long, moderate multipitches.
havent been to that many places, but those i have been to were alot of fun. Yosemite is stellar for longer, more challenging routes, Josh is well, Josh. :) and Mt. Lemmon was a good deal of fun, and i'm looking forward to getting back down there.
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imaclima
Sep 9, 2003, 10:31 PM
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In reply to: The Gunks, hands down the best.
Couldnt have said it better myself
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