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triznut
Aug 27, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2000
Posts: 96
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I would like to know what climbing gear is recommended for the Owen-spalding route. I'm a solid 5.9+ trad leader and I lead on the lower exum route a couple years ago. I want to go light so I was think a set of stoppers and maybe a few cams. What size cams would be best on this specific route :?:
Also I just want to verify since last time we didn't make it to the top we had to bail off Wall Street because of time issues, but there are 2 rap options :?: One being a 1x120' or (if your only bringing 1 60m rope) 2x70' raps :?: Which is best :?:
Thanks
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 27, 2003, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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If the OS is dry (give it a full day after rain), you won't need any pro if you're solid at 5.9+. There are only a couple of places that feel technical. If you decide that you need to bring gear, I would just bring a set of nuts and some hexes (much lighter than cams and fit into similar placements. Bring runners as placements won't necessarily follow one crack line. Have fun! It's been raining here today, but I haven't checked the forecast so I don't know what's on the horizon.
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brianinslc
Aug 27, 2003, 7:54 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
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In reply to: If the OS is dry (give it a full day after rain), you won't need any pro if you're solid at 5.9+. There are only a couple of places that feel technical. If you decide that you need to bring gear, I would just bring a set of nuts and some hexes (much lighter than cams and fit into similar placements. Bring runners as placements won't necessarily follow one crack line. Have fun! It's been raining here today, but I haven't checked the forecast so I don't know what's on the horizon.
I'll ditto that. I took five medium stoppers and climbed it easily in my Nike running shoes (and I wouldn't profess to be solid at 5.9+). At the top of the double chimney at the base of the catwalk, I do recall thinkin' it would have been nice to have a .75 camalot for a parallel sided crack there, but, that'd be it for cams.
I hear tell the std rap goes with a single 60m rope if you step to the right (?) a couple feet when you drop off. There is a double rap station above and to the climber's right of the standard rappel too (you can kinda scope out this from a position just back from and prior to getting to the base of the upper saddle, btw, especially if you jog up to the summit of the enclosure).
I'll also ditto that if its been wet, this time of year, its bound to be wet and icey since the summer season is closing down. Very different route when there's ice/snow.
Brian in SLC
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