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canadian_usc
Sep 2, 2003, 3:47 PM
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I was curious to know whether there are any good places to find alot of 5.8-5.10 sport climbs. It seems that the only decent places to sport climb are 5.12 +. Thanks, Replies are appreciated.
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debsanders
Sep 2, 2003, 3:54 PM
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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas has tons of 5.8 - 5.10 routes
Mom
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rrrADAM
Sep 2, 2003, 3:59 PM
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All over the world there are plenty of places... Can you narrow it down to a geographical region at least ???
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canadian_usc
Sep 2, 2003, 4:01 PM
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I don't care where, preferably in US or canada. And I live on the east coast (SC) so that would be even better, but it doesn't matter.
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dalguard
Sep 2, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Rumney, I suppose. What's wrong with the New and the Red? Have you climbed them out?
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naitch
Sep 2, 2003, 4:39 PM
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Nelson Rocks, WV - 5.6 and up
Franklin, WV - 5.8 and up
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redpoint73
Sep 2, 2003, 6:09 PM
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Dude, one word --- Rumney. Depending where in Canada you are, it can be within easy driving distance (New Hampshire, USA). Sport climbs from 5.3 to 5.14+, with a multitude of nice climbs in the 5.7 to 5.10 range.
If you can lead at least 10a, then the New River Gorge (West Virginia), and Red River Gorge (Kentucky) in southern USA have enough sport routes to keep you busy for weeks.
I'm not sure where you get this notion that sport crags are 5.12+. Most sport crags are geared toward 5.10 and up. If you can lead 10s solid, you can be happy at most sport crags.
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joegoesup
Sep 2, 2003, 6:28 PM
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Hands Down, Red River Gorge KY.
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ambler
Sep 2, 2003, 6:49 PM
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In reply to: Dude, one word --- Rumney. Depending where in Canada you are, it can be within easy driving distance (New Hampshire, USA). Sport climbs from 5.3 to 5.14+, with a multitude of nice climbs in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. |
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climbingjunky
Sep 2, 2003, 7:24 PM
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In addition to the original question. I was wondering if anyone knew of any places with easy sport climbs in Squamish B.C. ? In the 5.5-5.10 range. Another question, which routes are preclipped? Is it only the real difficult ones, I wasn't quite sure how that worked.
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squish
Sep 2, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to: In addition to the original question. I was wondering if anyone knew of any places with easy sport climbs in Squamish B.C. ? In the 5.5-5.10 range. Another question, which routes are preclipped? Is it only the real difficult ones, I wasn't quite sure how that worked.
You'll be hard pressed to find any routes under 5.12 or even 5.13 with pre-placed gear. Those are the routes for the masses, and nobody is going to leave their gear on a 5.8 for the next gumby to come along and steal. Besides, the draws would get worn out so fast. It's just not worth it.
Squamish doesn't have a whole lot in sport climbs under 5.10 (at least not all in one area). You could try Chek, in the Well of Souls. Either that or invest in a rack. We have countless natural lines in moderate grades.
Skaha is not too far away for a weekend and has lots of moderate sport routes.
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redpoint73
Sep 2, 2003, 7:51 PM
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I didn't catch the part where he said "SC", which I assume means South Carolina? I just saw the Canada and East Coast, and thought Quebec, which would have made Rumney a no-brainer.
Nonetheless, Rumney has a far greater concentration of easy climbs than either the Red or the New. A sub-10 climber could easily fill up a day at each of Parking Lot Wall, the Meadows, and maybe 5.8 Crag. At most sport crags, you have to do maybe a couple easy routes, then have to pack up and hike to another cliff. But obviously, Rumney is farther from S. Carolina than either the NRG or the Red.
I agree that none of the sub-10 climbs are mega-classics. But how many clip-ups under 10 really are "classics"? I've not been to a million places, but personally, I can only think of Flight of the Gumbie at the NRG that might apply.
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antigrav
Sep 2, 2003, 8:41 PM
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Ref. missing "under-10" classics... Maybe it also has to do with the fact that one can only climb a relatively small number of these routes, before one is able to climb harder?! ;-)
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paulc
Sep 3, 2003, 5:39 PM
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In reply to: In addition to the original question. I was wondering if anyone knew of any places with easy sport climbs in Squamish B.C. ? In the 5.5-5.10 range. Another question, which routes are preclipped? Is it only the real difficult ones, I wasn't quite sure how that worked.
Squish is right about the draws. Like I said in another thread, new crag at Chek, has a new 2 pitch .9, .8. Also check out Star Chek in the gorge, 5.9, but only a single move of .9, the rest is 5.4 to 5.8, kinda run between bolts but the climbing is so easy away from the bolts its no big deal at all. Can also try the variation finish at 10 something or the other.
Paul
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johnfromohio
Sep 3, 2003, 6:29 PM
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Summersville Orange Oswald Wall. From 5.8-5.11 and there are about 20 in that wall alone. Summersville, Red River and New River. Those are the place you want to be at.
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orseille
Sep 8, 2003, 9:44 PM
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now wait a minute... your canadian... live on the east coast...
best spot (in canada I mean) on the east coast region is Definitivily in st andré de kamouraska in québec
plenty of sport
all ranging from 5.6 to 5.13
really really really nice spot
but rumney is about the same (if you need an american comparison) except without an incredible view at the top
(according to national geographic its the second most beautiful sunsets in the world after hawaii)
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tallelk
Sep 8, 2003, 11:59 PM
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their is a place in Ohio. Pretty good climbing their lot of sport routes. not much trad climbing. It is in Lisbon Ohio. ever in the area let me know I would show you around.
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