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micronut
Sep 8, 2003, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 1760
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Just got back form Mt. Russell in the Whitney group, High Sierra. It's a great route.
Drove from Ojai after work on Friday. Picked up my partner, Rich, at his house in Wrightwood on Fri. night. Left his house at 11:00 pm, headed for Lone Pine. Got to bed at 2:00 am., Sat. morning. Got to the ranger station at 8 am. and got the LAST permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.. We didn't reserve because we don't want to support Ticketmaster and teir privatization of OUR public lands. Took it casual up to Iceberg lake on Sat.
We left or bivy at iceberg at 7:00 am on Sunday and were on route by 8. The first four pitches were very cold. We stayed as close to the edge of the arete as possible, with some interesting and quality climbing up to 5.8. Some care in route finding is nessesary to find the best way. Pitch 5 was the best. the topo says 5.8+ and "stimulating" face. I expected run out slab, but instead was suprised with almost vertical, but steppy 5.6 jugs and bomber crack in a great, sunny, exposed position. The last three pitches were no harder than 5.6, with some route finding options to find the best way. The decent required traversing to the East Summit, then decending a broken chimney to sandy talus. Avoid the temptation to decend too early. Take the second gully. Another party decended the first gully and said it was hairy when we talked to them later.
We got back to the bivy around 5:00 PM, packed our stuff, and swiftly decended down to Whitney Portal by 7:00, and were back to Wrightwood by 11:00 PM, in time for Rich to go to work on Monday.
It's a great route. I'd say that both climbers should be solid 5.9 trad. leaders, as some of the route is a traverse, and you want to feel solid up there on the 5.8. Try for warm temps. or carry gloves for the first four pitches, as we did. Also, drink LOTS of water before and during the approach to minimize the effects of altitude, and clean your car out of all smells related to foods, or the bears will bust your windows and rip your doors off. Finially stay left on the approach to Lower Boyscout Lake and save yourself some major grief.
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herm
Sep 9, 2003, 3:29 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
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Way Cool ! I wanna do the Fishhook Arete, too, but my list is a little out of hand. Good job!
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danl
Sep 9, 2003, 4:16 AM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Nov 12, 2001
Posts: 288
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Fish hook was awesome. I thought the climbing was better than the east face of whitney.
The super topo wasn't bad. Thought the final 5.9 off hands was more like 5.6.
All in all a great climb great exposure reasonable route finding.
Starting early helps but also forces you to freeze for a couple pitches.
We made the mistake of taking the first gully instead of the proper decent. Down climbed most of it but we were forced into one rappell.
All in all a spectacular climb
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rogueclimber
Sep 9, 2003, 5:30 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jan 10, 2003
Posts: 150
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Stay left on the approach to lower Boyscout??? How about high and to the right. Sound better?
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