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trillium
Oct 1, 2003, 12:34 PM
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Is anyone else having trouble with their 5.10 shoes splitting, coming unglued, and generally not having the quality they used to have? I have had trouble with my Anasasis and my Sapphires. Does anyone know what's up with the company?
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camhead
Oct 1, 2003, 1:03 PM
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yes.
5.10 have terrible durability. the only thing I can say good is that they have a pretty good return policy. give them a call, tell them what's up, and see if you can get a replacement.
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rrrADAM
Oct 1, 2003, 1:15 PM
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Great shoe for a bit, but they do tend to fall apart.
If you like Five-Ten try the new EVOLV shoes (they even advertise here), as the guys used to work for Five-Ten and make comperable shoes that hold up much better... I have 7 pairs of Five-Tens sitting in a box in my closet, and have used only EVOLV for the last year. Great customer service also, and they even garantee their shoes to be free of any defects.
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dhaulagiri
Oct 1, 2003, 1:36 PM
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Yeah, I would have to agree that 5.10 is pretty low on quality. I wouldn't say that they're customer service is that great either. They've had "computer problems" every time I've called them about something and usually "forget" to call me back. They are also really slow to send shoes but that could just be my experience. Love the shoes though.
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kyhangdog
Oct 1, 2003, 1:41 PM
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My Anasazi Velcros are coming a part at the toe. Tried Shoe Goo. I've tried different brands, but Stealth rubber is incomparable in my opinion. They're worth the hassel.
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data118
Oct 1, 2003, 2:28 PM
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The only trouble I had with my 5.10s were they're freakin expensive. :shock:
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dhaulagiri
Oct 1, 2003, 2:31 PM
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Yeah, you would think that for all the money they cost you could get something more from them. Sometimes I swear that they are just being run out of someone's basement in their spare time.
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allanorn
Oct 1, 2003, 2:50 PM
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I haven't had any defects with my Spires or Ascents. The Ascents are perhaps a half-size too small and don't fit my feet well, but that's another story. :?
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trillium
Oct 1, 2003, 2:52 PM
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Thanks for you comments. I will try EVOLV shoes. It is nice to know that it's not my imagination that these shoes don't hold up. (Granted we are putting them through h*** on the rock). Someone told me that parts are made in Europe and then assembled in the US. Anyone else heard this?
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rrrADAM
Oct 1, 2003, 3:01 PM
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Korea I think.
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fear_vergnuegen
Oct 1, 2003, 3:05 PM
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I am on my 4th or 5th pair of anasazi velcros. I hadn't had any problem with them until this pair, which started delaminating badly from day one.
I fixed them with barge cement, after carefully preparing the surfaces. A few months later, the sections I reglued are the only things holding the soles on anymore! Last week, I again fixed them (regluing the parts that I hadn't reglued last time) and I expect that the rubber will give out before they delaminate again.
I posted to rec.climbing about this, and the concensus seemed to be that 5.10 is good overall, but sufferes from occasional lapses in QC and ships a bad batch.
I still like 5.10 and will have to have more bad experiences before I give up on them. Also, fixing them was easy and the repair held up very nicely. It was probably easier (and quicker) than shipping them to the factory for customer service to take care of.
f a weihe
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climb_plastic
Oct 1, 2003, 5:58 PM
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I think it's normal to see a little separation after some use. I use super glue when I first start noticing any separation on my shoes after the first couple of weeks using a shoe. It stops it from separating any further.
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katydid
Oct 1, 2003, 6:50 PM
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My Sapphires died completely after 3 months. I don't ever plan to buy a pair of 5.10s again, no matter how well they happen to fit me.
k.
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camhead
Oct 1, 2003, 7:11 PM
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I'd better give props to Madrock shoes as well, since nobody else has yet in this thread. a lot of folks that I know are have bought them, and are way stoked. hopefully they will force fiveten to do something about price and/or quality.
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omenbringer
Oct 1, 2003, 7:57 PM
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I blew a hole in the rands of my Anasazis after only four days of indoor climbing. I think it might have something to do with increased demand causing rushes and resultant decreases in Quality. I am not at a level where I really notice the difference in rubber, but I feel that my Sportiva Katanas are on par with the anasazis.
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fredrogers
Oct 1, 2003, 9:04 PM
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Five Ten has excellent customer service in my experience. Call them about your problem and they will give you a return number. Ship the shoes back to them with the return # and they will replace with a new or fixed pair in about 3 weeks. I recently returned a pair of Anasazi laceups and the guy on the phone admitted they've been having a lot of problems with glue recently.
Madrock shoes are OK but I've been having the same problems as many, with the rubber being pretty soft so it wears quickly. But funny how I don't mind as much when I paid half the price of a Five.Ten. REI periodically comes out with 20% off coupons for members. I just received one in the mail for their Fall sale. You can use it on a pair of Madrock Flash and you'll pay only $56! It's almost like being sponsored.
I also tried Sportiva Katanas after being frustrated with 5.10 durability. I found the Katanas to be the same or worse than most of my 5.10 Anasazi's. I think you'll find problems with almost any brand of rock shoes. I've also had problems with Bufo and Madrock. I think the key is to find something of decent quality that is dirt cheap. Expect them to serve you well, but they will wear out fast. If you didn't pay much it won't hurt so bad when you inevitably replace them.
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climb_plastic
Oct 1, 2003, 9:21 PM
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I was alternating climbing between the flash and anasazi. They actually wear out about the same rate. I started using the flash more often because they're cheaper and they've felt good to climb in. I'm saving my anasazi's...for what I don't know...I guess I just know that they're more expensive so I don't want to use them all the time. If I get a REI coupon I'll probably get another pair of MRs to kick around.
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fiend
Oct 1, 2003, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: I'd better give props to Madrock shoes as well, since nobody else has yet in this thread. a lot of folks that I know are have bought them, and are way stoked. hopefully they will force fiveten to do something about price and/or quality.
That's funny.
5.10 shoes used to be made by Madrock, but they sucked ass so 5.10 ditched them. Notice the new beefier tags on newer batches of 5.10 shoes? The ones with the fancy embroidering? Those are the easiest way to tell the difference between the old Madrock/5.10s and the new 5.10 made shoes.
The reason Madrock is making such a big market push is that they were dropped by 5.10 and now have to fend for themselves.
That's just the general rumor floating around though. I've had this discussion with a couple of retailers.
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trialsnclimbing
Oct 1, 2003, 9:48 PM
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I own the 5.10 T-Rock shoes. The toe delamned on me within the first three weeks on them. I took pictures before it got any worse, emailed them to 5.10 and had a reply within a few hours saying to send them in. Living within a two hour drive, I opted to drop by in person for faster service. I showed up, talked to one person and he had a brand new pair of shoes in my hands within minutes. I would definitely do business with these guys again. The second pair is holding up quite well. I love the rubber on these things.
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climb_plastic
Oct 1, 2003, 11:56 PM
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[quote="fiend"]In reply to: 5.10 shoes used to be made by Madrock, but they sucked ass so 5.10 ditched them. Notice the new beefier tags on newer batches of 5.10 shoes? The ones with the fancy embroidering? Those are the easiest way to tell the difference between the old Madrock/5.10s and the new 5.10 made shoes. In reply to: But it's the one's with the new beefier tags that are falling apart.
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fiend
Oct 2, 2003, 12:29 AM
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Hmm, as far as I've seen the new ones aren't nearly as bad.
Oh well, they all suck and delam and tear. I'm about to give up, save my money and start climbing barefoot.
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climb_plastic
Oct 2, 2003, 1:14 AM
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What I'm hearing most people say is that the quality of 5.10 shoes is getting worse than before. Is it because the Mad Rock people left 5.10?
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revdeuno
Oct 2, 2003, 2:59 AM
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my anasazi lace-ups are coming appart at the heel where the rubber heel cup meets the pink fabric. I've only had them for 8 months and this problem started about 2 months ago, but hasnt impared their performance. I was thinking about trying out the velcro anasazi's because I love the anasazi so much but I don't know if I'd get them again because everyone I know says that if you get a full year out them then you are either not climbing a lot or you are lucky. I was thinking about trying out some la sportiva Mistrals for my next shoes...
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climbthedj
Oct 2, 2003, 5:59 AM
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In reply to: That's funny. 5.10 shoes used to be made by Madrock, but they sucked ass so 5.10 ditched them. Notice the new beefier tags on newer batches of 5.10 shoes? The ones with the fancy embroidering? Those are the easiest way to tell the difference between the old Madrock/5.10s and the new 5.10 made shoes. The reason Madrock is making such a big market push is that they were dropped by 5.10 and now have to fend for themselves. That's just the general rumor floating around though. I've had this discussion with a couple of retailers.
Dude, you said it yourself, "that's just the general rumor floating around.."
What you said is not entirely true. There was a factory that made shoes for 5.10, but that connection was severed, and the folks there started making their own shoes - Mad Rocks. Kinda a bum deal for 5.10, because the Mad Rock guys had all of 5.10's R & D ideas and just adapted them to make them different enough. Notice the striking similarities between many Mad Rocks and the new Anasazi Southwest?
On a side note, I have owned a pair of Anasazi's and while I didn't experience any radical delamination or other such disasters, a friend of mine has. 5.10 is pretty notorious for poor Quality Control, but they're customer service is generally really friendly and effiicient.
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tahquitztwo
Oct 2, 2003, 6:08 AM
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My first shoes were the old Boreal Fires.....but for my style of climbing I switched to 5.10s softer soled shoes. I've gone through three pairs of Huecos(the old ones) and had a few delam problems that 5.10 always took care of very quickly. The last pair I'm still using just get regular resoles locally. I've been very happy with the Ascents.....I have one comfy pair and one tighter pair for more precise climbing and no problems with either.
For those of us, like me, who have small wide feet, 5.10 lasts on some of the models seem to fit our feet better. I've tried MadRocks....they're just not comfortable to me and I like comfort when I climb :lol:
And for those of us who like that 5.10 rubber but have another fav pair of shoes.....resole, resole, resole when the original stuff wears out :wink:
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