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iamthewallress
Oct 1, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Upon Cruzit's suggestion that I check out Arno Ilgner's "Rock Warrior's Way" book/course to work on my confidence and mental strength when climbing, I sent my sixteen bucks to amazon, and now have what I hope will be a really useful tool.
The thing is, and I know that this is NOT the warrior's way, I've always been more motivated by classes and deadlines than I have been by open ended self-study. Would anyone here be interested in getting this book, working through his methods one chapter at a time, and sharing your experiences and questions either in a thread(s) here or in a private chat room elsewhere?
He also offers an online course for ~$70. Maybe we could get him to join the group to provide feedback for some fee?
The website for his book/courses is http://www.warriorsway.com/
Melissa
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darin
Oct 1, 2003, 7:50 PM
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I'd be interested in picking this up and sharing my experience with it as I go.. I've poked around Horst's books and realized how horrible my mental approach to climbing probably was and that was part of the reason I was having problems cracking into the 5.10s..
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lemon_boy
Oct 1, 2003, 10:04 PM
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i bought his book this summer and it has made an enormous difference. i was in a major climbing slump, mentally. i was backing off of EVERYTHING on lead, even when i had all the gear in the world and the climbing was well within my ability. i was getting pretty frustrated. then i saw a post by curt on this website and decided to order the book.
i found your comment about the open ended approach pretty interesting. a little bit about myself; i am pretty much OCD when it comes to climbing. i have a spreadsheet that contains the info of every pitch that i have climbed or tried to climb since 2001 (and i wish i had all of the data back to 1989). i can sort the routes by area, date, grade, whatever and then do statistical or trend analysis blah blah blah to see if i am improving. doubtlessly, everybody reading this will notice that i am a complete moron, but i can't really apologize for who i am. i'm just who i am, nobody else. i won't ever be able to wake up and test drive somebody else's shoes. i like structure and need it. i have a similar spreadsheet for my workouts (although it only goes back one year).
anyway, i read through his book very carefully and it seemed like he had written it about me. i was pretty amazed at how well he understood my mental process. i have been slowly trying to incorporate his methods into my climbing. i think the key is to try working on one thing at a time, whether it be breathing, realizing wishing and hoping behavior, addressing difficulties in a questioning matter as opposed to a blanket 'i can't' statement, etc.
another thing i have been doing is going out and whipping. i have always hated falling. even on TR i hated it, moslty because i felt a loss of control and always related that to my fear of it happening on lead. since i have bought his book, i have been going out and taking whippers on purpose. i just start with tiny ones and work my way up. in the past, when i would (very rarely) fall on lead i would be totally rattled for quite a while. this last saturday i whipped on a route (not on purpose), and i didn't freak out and start shaking like a leaf. this isn't to say that i am just going all out on lead now and climbing to my full capabilities. i am still hesitant, climbing slowly, afraid of failing, etc. however, i am IMPROVING. and i don't cuss nearly as much!!
the biggest difference that i have noticed is that i don't beat myself up if i don't onsight, or redpoint, or whatever. i just look at the pitch objectively and note what i did well and what needs improving. i don't say 'man i totally suck, i climb like $hlt blah blah blah'. i don't view success or failure as being defined by onsight/redpoint. i don't get pissed when one of my partner onsights or redpoints and i don't. the book really made me open my eyes and see the problems that i have with my ego. and my ego has to go. i have quit climbing with people that constantly try to compete with me or prove superiority by commenting on me not onsighting/redpointing. now i just climb for me, and damnit, i am having a lot of fun
sorry that was so long.
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rckclimbergurl
Oct 2, 2003, 2:02 AM
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Wow, that sounds like a pretty neat book.
I'll see if the library has it, but somehow I doubt it. :P
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jt512
Oct 2, 2003, 2:10 AM
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In reply to: Would anyone here be interested in getting this book, working through his methods one chapter at a time, and sharing your experiences and questions either in a thread(s) here or in a private chat room elsewhere?
Yes!
Why is this thread in the Ladies Room?
-Jay
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jt512
Oct 2, 2003, 2:25 AM
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In reply to: am pretty much OCD when it comes to climbing. i have a spreadsheet that contains the info of every pitch that i have climbed or tried to climb since 2001 (and i wish i had all of the data back to 1989). i can sort the routes by area, date, grade, whatever and then do statistical or trend analysis blah blah blah to see if i am improving.
Hilarious! I did the same thing for a couple of years, except that my data was in an Access database. I even wrote Visual Basic code to sort the routes properly by grades that included fine gradations such as 5.10a/b, 5.10-, etc.
-Jay
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iamthewallress
Oct 2, 2003, 3:16 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Would anyone here be interested in getting this book, working through his methods one chapter at a time, and sharing your experiences and questions either in a thread(s) here or in a private chat room elsewhere? Yes! Why is this thread in the Ladies Room? -Jay
I saw it as an opportunity to get other women in addition to myself feeling braver on the sharp end, a place where in my experience a lot of us lag behind a lot of you boys. I also was a little worried that a group of 50 might assemble or something if I posted to general. Boy, girl, whatever though...It's all good to me.
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jt512
Oct 2, 2003, 3:52 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Would anyone here be interested in getting this book, working through his methods one chapter at a time, and sharing your experiences and questions either in a thread(s) here or in a private chat room elsewhere? Yes! Why is this thread in the Ladies Room? -Jay I saw it as an opportunity to get other women in addition to myself feeling braver on the sharp end, a place where in my experience a lot of us lag behind a lot of you boys. I also was a little worried that a group of 50 might assemble or something if I posted to general. Boy, girl, whatever though...It's all good to me.
I think that this is a subject area where group interaction would be beneficial. I also think that diversity within the group would be beneficial. As to males being "ahead" in the lead-head game, maybe on average we tend to be, but I know few climbers, male or female, who would have no room for improvement in this area. Most of us have experiences where we back-off, grab draws, "take," elect to follow a challenging pitch, and so on, out of irrational fear. The Warrior's Way is about learning to make climbing choices based on love of the sport, rather than irrational fears about getting hurt in situations that are safe, or at least pose risks that are reasonable. I think that the wider the range of inputs we have, the more we'll all learn. Of course, the group probably shouldn't be so large that it loses that small-group dynamic, but I doubt it will be. There won't be that many people who will make the commitment.
-Jay
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on_sight_man
Oct 2, 2003, 6:25 AM
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Just got my receipt that the book is being sent out. I'm interested.
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darin
Oct 2, 2003, 1:23 PM
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yep. I ordered mine yesterday afternoon and it's shipping from amazon as we speak.. I'll post to this thread when it comes in and we can go from there...
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halfstep
Oct 2, 2003, 4:55 PM
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I just finished reading the book. I found it a great book and some of the stuff he writes about totally applies to my climbing. I do hesitate and climb up then downclimb, etc. And that darn internal voice. :twisted:
I read it through pretty quick, so I'm going to read it again a bit slower and try using the exercises in the back
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calliope
Oct 2, 2003, 8:21 PM
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I'm in. Gotta get the book, though, so I might end up a chapter or two behind. I'm good at catch up. Can't wait.
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iamthewallress
Oct 2, 2003, 11:28 PM
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In reply to: I'm in. Gotta get the book, though, so I might end up a chapter or two behind. I'm good at catch up. Can't wait.
We can wait a week or two until everyone who wants a book gets one!
What do y'all think...Should we get a private room elsewhere or do it on threads here? I'm kind of in favor of moving the discussion elsewhere so we don't end up w/ a discussion dominated by people who aren't reading the book. I could ask the powers that be if we could have a closed forum here though, a la photo critique forum.
Melissa
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moabbeth
Oct 2, 2003, 11:36 PM
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I'm in too. Gotta pick one up before I hit the road next week. Could be some good down-time reading for me.
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jt512
Oct 2, 2003, 11:58 PM
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In reply to: Should we get a private room elsewhere or do it on threads here?
Hey, this does sound like a fun group!
In reply to: I'm kind of in favor of moving the discussion elsewhere so we don't end up w/ a discussion dominated by people who aren't reading the book...
Oh, the discussion. *heads dejectedly toward cold shower*
In reply to: I could ask the powers that be if we could have a closed forum here though, a la photo critique forum.
Sounds like a good idea. I wonder if Arno would be interested in participating, and if rc.com would be interested in formalizing a relationship with him -- The Warrior's Way Forum, moderated by Arno Ilgner -- It might be mutually beneficial.
-Jay
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robmcc
Oct 3, 2003, 12:06 AM
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In reply to: Sounds like a good idea. I wonder if Arno would be interested in participating, and if rc.com would be interested in formalizing a relationship with him -- The Warrior's Way Forum, moderated by Arno Ilgner -- It might be mutually beneficial.
That is the best idea I've heard in a long time. The advertising might be a tempting lure. I'm buying the book, and I'm buying it because I heard about it here.
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joe
Oct 4, 2003, 4:24 AM
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i second the above recommendation.
another good book for those interested in the mental/physical aspects of sports training should check out "Thinking Body, Dancing Mind" by Chungliang Al Huang and Jerry Lynch.
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calliope
Oct 5, 2003, 8:32 PM
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I've got it now...when do we get started?
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darin
Oct 9, 2003, 1:32 PM
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my copy came in yesterday. whenever we're ready, count me in...
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robmcc
Oct 9, 2003, 3:12 PM
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Mine's due tomorrow. Good thing, too. I'm gonna need it Saturday.
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rockwomyn
Oct 9, 2003, 4:47 PM
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FYI-
Arno will be at The Water Stone Mountain Store in the New River Gorge October 25th, giving a lecture and doing book signing. :D
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just_me
Oct 13, 2003, 2:32 PM
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This post prompted me to buy the book. I just got it, and I am tearing through it. Count me in if you do any discussions. This book seems like a good way to improve my climbing, and my motivation for a lot of other facets of my life.
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miarock
Oct 13, 2003, 4:29 PM
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last spring i organized an all women's class with Arno at the red river gorge. it was an amazing experience and arno is wonderful. i have huge lead head issues and he helped me begin to see what is irrational and rational about my fears. the program requires a lot of effort on your part to apply, but is beyond worth it.
Mia
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iamthewallress
Oct 13, 2003, 5:19 PM
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Howdy, all.
Have all of you who want to get a copy and join in on the discussions gotten one?
What's the consensus on where the discussions should be held? I think a closed group is probably the best so that people who haven't read the book or been involved in the previous discussions don't start chiming in with thoughts that are totally from left feild. Since some of the stuff might be kind of personal, it might be nice to not have it be open to everyone too. What do you think?
I haven't contacted Arno just because I've been busy or lazy when I wasn't busy. I think it's a pretty good idea though.
Melissa
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jt512
Oct 13, 2003, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: Howdy, all. Have all of you who want to get a copy and join in on the discussions gotten one? What's the consensus on where the discussions should be held? I think a closed group is probably the best so that people who haven't read the book or been involved in the previous discussions don't start chiming in with thoughts that are totally from left feild. Since some of the stuff might be kind of personal, it might be nice to not have it be open to everyone too. What do you think? I haven't contacted Arno just because I've been busy or lazy when I wasn't busy. I think it's a pretty good idea though. Melissa
How about asking an Admin to set up a usergroup with a private forum, moderated by Arno, if he is interested. I'd have no problem with non-members having read-only forum privileges; some might become interested enough to buy the book and join the group.
-Jay
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Warrior's Way Book Club?
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