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toejam
Oct 9, 2003, 7:06 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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Considering climbing this weekend. Will be my first time up the Mountaineers Route, and just looking for any general advice/tips such as:
-Current conditions (everything I'm hearing says no ice axe or crampons needed now)
- Best guidebook to buy
- Good place to bivy
- Pro (sounds like nuts and cams < BD size 2)
- Any other tips
Thanks,
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thegreytradster
Oct 9, 2003, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
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You go Downthe Mountaneers route. Shouldn't require and axe. The southern half of the Sierras didn't get much snow last winter. Went from Langley to Whitney in August and the north facing gullies were pretty dry. As far as the East Face, take a minimal alpine rack and move fast. The only specific advice, the Grand Staircase is a series of rubble covered ledges with very short headwalls. Better to unrope for this part as it's almost impossible to keep the rope from knocking stuff down as it drags across the ledges. Easy there anyway.
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madturtle
Oct 9, 2003, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
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Check out www.395.com for weather and permit info. There is even a live camera up there. Get McNamara's SuperTopo guide book for the high sierra. that will undoubtedly be the most detailed source and it's only $15. ( www.supertopo.com ). You could also try California Peaks and Passes and Sierra 14er's.
Camp high the night before, probably all the way up at iceberg lake, start early, move fast, be prepared to bivy if need be. oct weather can be a little volatile and the days are short. Post a TR let us know how it went. Good luck.
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tigerbythetail
Oct 9, 2003, 7:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Just up there last weekend and there is no snow at all in the gully of the Mountaineers Route and minimal snow/ice at all anywhere up there on Whitney. No ice axe or crampons needed but take some sturdy shoes for the descent as it's all rubble.
Where to camp if doing it in more than a day is up to you depending upon how far to the base you want to haul your camping gear -some hump it to Iceberg Lake at the foot of Mt. Whitney while others camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake and make a longer summit day. Spending a night at Whitney Portal (say the night you drive up) if possible helps to acclimate.
You should be comfortable at the grade (especially if doing the east butt) so you can climb quickly and efficiently with minimal pro. A standard to light rack with lots of slings is perfect and nuts and hexes work really well in addition to being lighter than cams. Be careful of loose rock and try to avoid climbing under anyone lest they be less careful than you.
Days are warm (60's) while nights are cool (low to mid 20's) right now so not too much clothing is needed. Check the weather before heading out as storms can move in quickly up there.
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toejam
Oct 14, 2003, 1:43 AM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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Didn't make it to Whitney, but I appreciate all the beta. Its a personal goal and I intend to hit it soon. I guess I'm about out of time this year though.
My buddy had a yearning for Yosemite and we wound up on East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, so I can't complain. Heaps of fun!!!
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