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superlob
Oct 18, 2003, 1:01 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 30
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Went over to see how my donations on helping the local crags are doing and they have something that Auburn needs to be added to.
2003 Top Endangered Climbing Areas
Would be good to give them a call and see if Auburn can be added to this list.
I know I am..
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roughster
Oct 18, 2003, 3:10 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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Couldn't agree more and I have raised the issue with the Access Fund. The current NorCal rep will be stepping down from his post and hope is that the new person can step into the position and use Auburn as their Flagship Venture. Hopefully we will see "something" soon. Because of the current situation, Auburn pretty has been back burnered for a bit, but I encourage anyone interested in resolving access to Auburn email the Accees Fund directly at:
shawn@accessfund.org
Someday we'll get this thing hammered out one way or the other. It has been a rather frustrating experience so far, but Auburn is worth fighting for. What I have thought about recently is look at the stink about Cave Rock and its closing. I agree this sucks, but heres the deal, lets compare the two crags:
Cave Rock: Federal Land with direct conflict with Indians
Auburn: In a state recreation area
Cave Rock: Less than 50 total routes and completely developed
Auburn:Already more routes than Cave Rock and the surface has barely been scratched at total lines.
Cave Rock: Most routes in the 5.12+ range
Auburn: Routes from bolted 5.6s up to 5.13s, with potential for 14s and beyond.
Cave Rock: Single pitch steep routes
Auburn: Single pitch, multipitch (up to 3 pitches long). Slabs, verts, overhangs. It has everything imaginable.
Cave Rock: Services Tahoe area primarily (~200 hundreds "local" would be my guess)
Auburn: Services Bay/East Bay/Sacramento/Etc.. ~thousands of climbers potentially.
Cave Rock: Has a Highway running through it
Auburn: Removed from any vehicle traffic. 1.5 mile hike on a perfect dirt road.
Cave Rock: No services; parking, water, toilets, etc..
Auburn:Already has 2 porta potties on the approach. The American River is 300 yards down the hill for cooling off in. Already established parking area.
Cave Rock: In the publics face
Auburn: Totally removed from generally public scrutiny. The only people you will see are fellow recreationers: Horseback, mtn bikes, hikers.
Cave Rock: Scree slope for a base
Auburn: Several of the cliffs have flat open areas at the base. Perfect for families, etc...
You tell me which crag should be getting the most resources devoted to getting it open? Auburn has a legitamate chance at being Northern California's premiere sport climbing area and yet the Access Fund is dragging their feet. It makes no sense.
So....if your interested in access at Auburn, fire off that email, point them to this comparison if you want. Somehow we need to make the Access Fund see what it *should* be devoting its resources to!
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superlob
Oct 28, 2003, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
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Thanks for the info, and I am going to put a nice email together to send to this person. On the Fund web site they give some pointers on writing, and I think it would really help to get things going and get the Area open to the public like every climbing spot could be.
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