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crackwhore
Feb 26, 2002, 3:21 PM
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this would encompass anything .10 and under.
my top 3 looks like this:
1: Batteries not Included (5.9 @ Power wall)
nice locker jams more reminescent of Granite cracks.(also takes hexes so you dont need a bunch of cams)
2: Twin Cracks (5.8 @ Supercrack)
fine intro to parallel cracks w/good pro
3: Grits Grunt (5.8 @ Battle of the Bulge)
adventure over 2 long pitches
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litedawg
Feb 26, 2002, 4:31 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2001
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ms. crackwhore
if I and a friend were to come down to Moab would you be willing to take us to indian creek?
I climb 5.9 sport and 5.7/8 crack
He climbs a grade or so better than me. I really want o learn crack. I might even be willing to spring for dinner and beer.
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atg200
Feb 26, 2002, 4:37 PM
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litedawg - just go to the creek. it is very easy to catch rides on people's topropes.
binou's crack is my favorite climb at indian creek in the under 5.10 range. felt like 8+ to me, but very nice thin hands.
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camhead
Feb 26, 2002, 5:05 PM
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Litedawg,
I'd be down for Indian Creek about any weekend, could contribute gear, gas $$$, whatever. I am leading about 11a, and just got back from there last weekend. Addicted. PM me if you ever go.
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crackwhore
Feb 28, 2002, 2:04 AM
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atg200 is right...
creek folks are very friendly abt. TRs.
they know not everyone has 8 sets of cams.
TRs are a great way to learn the technique without the added risk of leading.
i only know of a handful of routes in the Moab/Indian Creek area that are easier than 5.9. they dont get easier, just shorter.
20' of thin hands=5.8
140' of thin hands=5.12
probably best to go with complete immersion baptism. sink or swim...
im currently climbing in Mex. right now but around april or may i'll be back...
you and camhead should try to to hookup sounds like he's pretty hip with the jive.
keepin' it on the down lo
lo down
no doubt
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newbieclimber
Feb 28, 2002, 3:00 AM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2001
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generic crack (5.9)
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camhead
Feb 28, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Generic Crack is the #%$!!! toughest 5.9 I've ever done. Just goes to show how accurate ratings are. I personally think that Incredidble Handcrack (10c) is easier to pull off with finesse than Generic.
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crackaddict
Jun 10, 2002, 4:46 AM
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Yes I totally agree!
Incredible hand crack is so much easier than Generic crack!
I don't get it but its all good!
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cgranite
Aug 13, 2003, 7:31 AM
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what do you use for anchors in the indian creek area?
I'm thinking about planning a trip there some time when I get better at cracks and learn to place gear well. I TRed a 5.10b crack, which was my first crack experience. It was awesome, but hard as hell at the crux, even though I climb 5.11a sport. what I'm trying to say is... I think I'm addicted to crack now.
I want to go to Indian Creek really bad, but I feel so excluded do to the lack of gear and knowledge about placing pro. It feels like 10 years tell I can visit that place. What should I do besides hooking up with some stranger.
-seth
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brianinslc
Aug 13, 2003, 2:34 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: what do you use for anchors in the indian creek area?
Many fixed anchors. Bolts/chain.
Few more moderates...
Split Pinnacle, Naked and the Dead, Y Crack Simulator, Nomadic Alternative, Chocolate Corner...
Fun!
Brian in SLC
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murf
Aug 13, 2003, 3:11 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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Blue Gamma Wall - the incarnation of moderate at the IC. Short routes, good concentration of low(ish) grades.
Names? Can't remember, Unamed #1 - #5?
Murf
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inflight
Aug 13, 2003, 5:51 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2002
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There's also Bunny Slope 5.9+. This one has a long approach but worth it because it is soo classic.
Although it does take alot of hand size cams and the route is over 100' long.
Peace.
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atg200
Aug 13, 2003, 6:06 PM
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the absolute best moderate at the creek is south sixshooter tower.
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