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the_dodgester
Mar 1, 2002, 9:59 PM
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How long until you started lead climbing???
And what grade were you at when you started??? I want to do some lead climbing but need to improve somewhat before i do. I just don't want to end up top-roping for ever.
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fo_d
Mar 1, 2002, 10:15 PM
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What kind of lead climbing? theres sport & trad, I didnt figure it out for a while but theres a big diference. I had been climbing indoors for 4 months before I went out doors and started sport leading, I basicly read a few books and talked to a few climbers before I did it but didnt take any classes other than the belay class, and I started on easy routes. As for trad, I led 3 pitches of Durance on Devils tower with no real experiance but that probably wasnt a smart thing to do looking back on it, anyway I've picked up some info since then and cleaned a few routes and this summer I'll start teaching myself to lead by placing gear at ground level and testing placements, then I'll start out leading easy routes. this might not be the way for you, I dont know you so I cant say, you might need to climb with an experianced trad climber or take some classes, that what most people recommend.
one other thing, I think this subject has been disscussed here before, try doing a forum search theen you might not have to wait for answers here.
Les
[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2002-03-01 14:20 ]
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natec
Mar 1, 2002, 10:19 PM
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I had been climbing for about six months and was able to onsight 5.8 sport leads. I took a gear placement class from a respected guide service, and read every book I could find on gear placement and anchor construction. After that I spent about 2 hrs. a day for 4 or 5 days placing gear on the ground and constructing anchors, then I bounce tested them as hard as I could. After that I seconded one route for an experienced friend just to see how it worked. Two hours later I let my first route. Old Ladies(5.2) at Seneca Rocks Wv.
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andrejka
Mar 1, 2002, 10:41 PM
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i was toproping for 6 months before i started to lead.it is 2 years from from that time, but to be honest, i still have some problems to lead. you know, my head. I started to lead 5.8 now i am able to lead 5.10c if the head is ok.
if you have someone experienced to climb with you, no problem, just do what he/she says to you. and learn from other climbers you see.
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apollodorus
Mar 2, 2002, 4:24 AM
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I was leading easy climbs right from the start. I lived in a really small town, and my brother and I were the only ones at the local rocks. The first day we went climbing, we fooled around for about an hour learning to place pro in cracks at the ground. Then, we flipped a coin, he won and lead up a 5.4/5.5 crack. I led the crack next to it next. We'd read Robbins' two rockcraft books, understood how pro worked, and just went for it.
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jt512
Mar 2, 2002, 4:38 AM
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No, you don't want to toprope forever, unless that's your thing. The longer you TR, the more addicted to the security of the toprope you're likely to become. Better to start leading sooner than later. Just stick to easy leads at first and increase difficulty gradually.
-Jay
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gekolimit
Mar 2, 2002, 10:15 AM
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----> When your confident
----> Know how to put the equipment
----> Know how to take a fall
Then you can lead climb. I started leading 2 months into climbing...some people start later.
By the sounds of your post you sound as if you really really wanna do it. You sound confident...so make sure you know how the equipment and clipping of the rope works, and my opinion....beat it and go LEAD!
Good luck, Have fun, stay safe
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vaness
Mar 2, 2002, 1:54 PM
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i have been climbing for almost a year and i did my first lead yesterday...it was a 15 foot roof...and it didnt have a rating.
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crackwhore
Mar 2, 2002, 4:14 PM
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aahh so true...
many different skills combine to make a good leader.
climbing and protecting are 2 different skills. the cardinal rule while in the early stages of learning:
DONT CHALLENGE YOURSELF IN BOTH SKILLS AT THE SAME TIME.
bouldering also helps you learn to fall on your feet (not a valuable climbing skill but very important if you fall)
every climber has a different time frame,
just stay true to your path.
...remember why you climb.
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treyr
Mar 2, 2002, 5:39 PM
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I started at age 13 on 5.8s after being able to climb a 5.10 no leading
Trob
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kam_ill_eon
Mar 2, 2002, 11:08 PM
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Start when you feel you are ready and then try sport lead climbing. Your local gym might be able to help get you enrolled in a lead climbers class.
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jarod
Mar 3, 2002, 12:37 AM
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It was about four months before I did my first lead climb outside (.9) on real rock and two years before I led my first trad line (.7). To me leading is a wierd combination of not thinking and thinking and being relaxed but not too relaxed. One thing you might try is leading a route or two you have wired from doing on toprope. That way you know what moves to expect .
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outhere
Mar 3, 2002, 1:41 AM
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I started lead climbing on 5.7-5.10 sport routes about a year after I started. I kept setting pro down belo to practice and would also clean routes for friends is another great way to learn I think
[ This Message was edited by: outhere on 2002-03-02 17:44 ]
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rrrADAM
Mar 3, 2002, 2:03 PM
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1rst day climbing (at gym) TRd to 5.9, 2nd day (at gym) lead 5.7, 3rd day (at Williamson Rock, Ca) lead 5.7 and got the Red Point. Tried an .11b (we had no book, and it looked easier from bellow) and took a 20' pendulum fall.
rrrADAM
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radistrad
Mar 4, 2002, 1:36 AM
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I think you should start to lead when you are ready. Start on easy bolted routes, and get an experienced leader to help you out. A good belayer is also recommended. A few important things to remember is: 1st, dont let that lead rope go between or behind your legs the result in a fall will turn you world upside down! Keep the rope infront of your legs! 2nd, the gate of the carabiner that the rope is cliped through shoud face away from the direction you are climbing. 3rd, wear a helmit, beacuse the first rule in climbing is safety. You want a good belayer who wont feed out too much rope or keep you too tight that he pulls you off the rock. Take it slow, dont be ashamed to hang, and if some one is judging you give 'em the bird! Its you climb in your time.
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jt512
Mar 4, 2002, 3:31 AM
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rrrAdam rrrote:Quote:1rst day climbing (at gym) TRd to 5.9, 2nd day (at gym) lead 5.7, 3rd day (at Williamson Rock, Ca) lead 5.7 and got the Red Point. Tried an .11b (we had no book, and it looked easier from bellow) and took a 20' pendulum fall.
Which 5.7 and 5.11 at Williamson, out of curiosity?
-Jay
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bcrocks
Sep 5, 2002, 12:16 AM
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The second day I climb in my life. It's was just a easy 5.8 but my heart has beat fast . It's not the same things then toproping. It's really more challenging and more fun
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paintinhaler
Sep 5, 2002, 12:58 AM
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A 5.2, thats a walkup. They even named it?
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timpanogos
Sep 5, 2002, 1:01 AM
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I started right off - 1st lead 5.6 arête, 2nd lead was a 5.7 friction face (by mistake, on the wrong route). I agree with Crackhore, so many skills … I have since concentrated on 5.6 trad leads, with gear placement being the main area of growth, or would that be the mind/head stuff? Don’t know, still scares the heck out of me! After 4 months I find that it has inadvertently strengthened my climbing skill as well, just being on the rock a lot, getting pushed by bad route finding, following to a higher level etc.
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sportgirl
Sep 5, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Do what you are comfortable with. I've known people who starting leading immediately, and then there are people like me who took a year or so to lead. Thing is, I am confident TRing anything up to 12s clean. Leading I can do up to 10c... I just wanted to make sure that i was a solid enough climber on TR and had enough experience climbing in general that when I started leading (and taking other people out to climb), that I could pretty much be confident that I could handle just about anything that came my way...But of course, this is the way I wanted to do it and it has worked for me. I love to lead.
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whipper
Sep 5, 2002, 10:58 PM
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I lead my first climb tha I ever did. Trad gear no less. I say start on trad and then sport will seem easy. Go big.
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rocks4jules
Sep 5, 2002, 11:02 PM
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I've been climbing since June '02, and have comfortably been climbing 5.10+ (top roping) for a couple of weeks. Last night I sport lead a 5.9, with confidence. It is all about the legs and balance. Find someone you trust and can help instruct you while climbing and you will do great. Remember, you can be defeated in your mind far before your physical self is defeated. Good luck and CLIMB ON!!!
JULES
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geckobean1
Sep 5, 2002, 11:21 PM
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I lead climbed a 5.8 friction climb without a lot of experience, but i had an experienced climber with. i wouldn't have done enless he was there.
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brisboy
Sep 7, 2002, 2:20 PM
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my first ever roped climb was a lead climb, even though it was a ver easy climb at grade 12 trad it was still pretty challenging
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coclimber26
Nov 1, 2002, 4:41 AM
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I started leading on 5.4's and learned how to place pro on easy routes before trying more commiting routes..
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