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crackwhore
Mar 2, 2002, 2:12 PM
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fun .12s ?
my top 3:
1: 9 Lives (.12a @ the Cat Wall)
awesome splitter, exposed traverse, overhanging wide hands to finish. 70m. rope just works.
2: Quarter of a Man (.12a @ Battle of the Bulge) super sustained tight hands corner with a cool slanting finale.
3:Thank God for Pods (.12a @ Reservoir wall)
sweet tight hands splitter with the nicest pods you have ever had the pleasure of resting in.
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camhead
Mar 4, 2002, 6:06 PM
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I can think of three that I have tried and love. I have led none of them, but am just counting down the days until I have the skills and cajones to do so.
1) Coyne Crack 12a
2) Swedish Ringle Route 12b
3) Digital Readout 12c/d (Fun and painful finger stuff, but I don't know if I'll ever be able to lead it.)
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crackwhore
Mar 6, 2002, 2:57 AM
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alley cat is one i've never tried...
Swedin Ringle now has an extension that goes at .13b, creating a more logical conclusion to this striking line. this is now destined to become a hard classic (although it would probably never get led without clipping the belay bolts midway)
Coynes is way good (especially the whole route) although as the crack has rounded out it has gotten a bit easier.
Digital is pretty much a face climbing crux with decent locks for me. low percentage...
[ This Message was edited by: crackwhore on 2002-03-05 20:20 ]
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crackmd
Mar 24, 2002, 6:11 PM
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I definitely concur with 9-Lives and Quarter of a Man. The sustained nature of these routes combined with exciting finishes makes them true 5-star classics. I would like to add Cow Crack on the New Wall to the list of awesome 5.12s. It is a sustained thin hands splitter on flawless stone. Bring at least 8 #2 Friends.
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crackwhore
Mar 29, 2002, 2:51 PM
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ahh yes... Cow Crack !
great rock, hard to find and, of prime importance; SHADE !!!
all the makings of a desert classic.
Overthruster is another great route on the New Wall.
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crackmd
Mar 29, 2002, 4:00 PM
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Crackwhore, where is Overthruster compared to Cow Crack? I'm psyched to try it! I really could not make any sense of the listing of climbs on the New Wall in the 200 Select book. Cow Crack is the only climb I found, and I was lucky to stumble across it.
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crackwhore
Apr 4, 2002, 2:11 PM
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Overthruster is pretty far right of Cow Crack. maybe 1-150 yds.???. getting pretty close to the Dugout Ranch. im not sure if access is still okay. good route.
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camhead
May 28, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Hey all. I am just ecstatic right now:
Just got on Coyne a couple days ago, my first trad .12 lead. Beautiful.
super rattly start, but the rest of it is beautiful thin hands. I MUST get down there again before it gets too hot and try to redpoint that thang.
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crackaddict
May 29, 2002, 12:02 AM
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Hey Paul,
Congrats on the Coyne!
Dude I was there just last weekend!
Maybe I saw you!
I was climbing at Supercrack Buttress for a little on Saturday morning and for a while on Sunday.
I had a couple attempts at the Coyne on Saturday but got schooled quickly.
Again good job!
That is definatley a wobbly start.
I too will be back soon for more!
Later.
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camhead
Jun 2, 2002, 11:57 PM
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Whoah, yeah I was at Supercrack Buttress both of those days. Was with one other dude and three girls. some really hardcore older lady got on Coyne right after me.
Hey, and did you see all those climbers decked out in drag up there on Sunday evening?
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crackaddict
Jun 3, 2002, 1:39 AM
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Oh man I missed the climbers in drag!
Must of been a hoot!
Ok I think I remeber seeing you guys. Are you the guys that were doing cave route on sunday afternoon? I was with a girl named Shelley aka. rock_diva on this site.
Hey was that older gal wearing glasses and with a younger guy named George?
They were pretty cool!
I am going to be out there next weekend because that place is too cool!
Later.
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-06-02 18:42 ]
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freezerfrost
Jun 3, 2002, 1:39 AM
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"ratings dont mean much to me, only the aesthetics."
Riiight.
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camhead
Jun 3, 2002, 1:46 AM
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Yeah that was us. The older guy that was with us was named Eric. Is that the dude you were thinking of?
Hey Freezerfrost the Loganite, who are you?
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crackaddict
Jun 4, 2002, 9:26 PM
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Hey Paul,
We were the two that you passed on your hike up to the cave route. We were checking out Swedin-Ringle route. Are you stayng in SLC for the gathering? Some of us AZ locals are going back to Indian Creek this weekend. Need some more before it gets blazing hot! Sorry but we won't be at the gathering.
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radd
Jun 4, 2002, 10:20 PM
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I always thought that Coyne Crack was 11+ That is what all my friends told me. But who really cares it is one bitchin climb. I agree with the Quarter of a Man that route is awesome. I donot agree with Dig. Readout that route sucks. It is just a whole bunch of pain and no fun (then again i do have sausage fingers). Swedin ringle is awesome because it looks easy from the ground, but once you get on it you know why it is 12b. stellar carck.
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crackwhore
Jun 14, 2002, 4:50 AM
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hey defrostedfreezer,
care to shoot some more holes in my philosophy?
yes its true, ratings dont mean much to me. crackwhore sees beautiful crack, then i tries it 'til i can do it. dont care about the grade. thats why i climbs hard climbs
besides, every body knows whores are liars.
kinda like doods who regurgitate other peeples stories about monkeez an' stuff
which 11th grade physics book didja pull that Newton stuff outa?? besides, every body knows Newton was that dood what diskovered inersha.
had to edit for spelling errors...
but you probably cant read this anyhoo cuz it aint written in spanish.
[ This Message was edited by: crackwhore on 2002-06-13 22:35 ]
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