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djnibs
Nov 25, 2003, 3:11 AM
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For those of us who set routes, and those who are curious, what is the system of choice??
I personally have a bucket which i put holds with bolts in and attach that to a second line using an ascender, which i pull up as i move up. I prefer not to climb the route, as i am lazy and will tire quickly. I use an ascender and grigri and move up that way, placing holds as i go. Most of the time, i put a route up with a friend, we both try the moves, see what we like. And then once it is down, i have the first go. If anything needs to be made harder/easier, now is the time.
So how do you set routes??
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overlord
Nov 25, 2003, 1:36 PM
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im not a setter, but...
in kranj te setters use buckets to carry the holds in and use ladders and some type of movable construction framework (kinda like what the workers use when doing tha facade of a building). it looks easy and is suprisingly stable, especially if you consider the 15m height.
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pianomahnn
Dec 1, 2003, 7:26 PM
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My steps:
1) Pick out phatty holds.
2) Place in bucket with appropriate bolts
3) Start putting them on the wall.
I hardly climb a route while setting it, I just visualize the moves.
It always seems to work out well for me.
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jimdavis
Dec 2, 2003, 5:57 AM
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I self belay on fixed rope with a GriGri, backed up with a prussik above it.
I put bolts in the holds before hand.
We put 4 holes in a 5 gal bucket and put webbing through them to form two intersecting handles.
I then put a quickdraw on my belay loop.
I tie the bucket to the rope so it hangs off the floor below me, thus pulling my slack through the GriGri.
Climb, then pull up the bucket and clip it to my draw.
We also have out T-wrenches on keeper cords so we can clip em to our harnesses.
Another trick...get some I-Bolts that are the same tread pattern as the T-Nuts. That way when your putting a hold in, you screw the I-Bolt into a nearby hole and clip into it with a draw. That way you don't have to hold on to put a hold in somewhere off route.
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djnibs
Dec 7, 2003, 6:58 PM
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jimdavis, thats a common problem we have when putting up a route becuase we have a large overhang on the one way. we have a hold that has a chain on it (its for hanging on, like an isicle) we screw that just under the overhang and put the rope through it. but using the "I" bolts seam like a great idea.
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cantclimbforsht
Dec 7, 2003, 7:22 PM
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i ascend with an ascender and a grigri. my wall doesnt overhang too much so i dont usually have to clip into the bolts, but i bring a draw up just in case. i put the holds and bolts in a bag instead of a bucket. it seems less likely to tip over. i clip the bag to my harness so it hangs just below me and i can pull it up and place it on my lap to pick out holds. i also but the wrench in the bag, or through the loop that the belay loop is attached to. I dont like tying it on because the rope gets annoying when im tightening the bolts. also, i like to use a ladder for the bottom of the route, and i like to try to plan out the route before i get on the wall. i havent been setting for too long so my system isnt perfect yet, but i think its pretty good
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arkansasclimber
Dec 7, 2003, 8:55 PM
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I like to get a 5 gallon bucket and fill it with sweet holds. Then clip the bucket into my belay loop with a draw. I always try and visualize the route before i get on the wall. I'll usually just rope solo witha grigri. I like to put routes up and ground up and try each of the moves as i move up.On most of the walls at my gymn they have draws every 5-6 feet for lead. If i'm on an over hang i'll just climb up to the next draw clip the rope into it then lower down. To find out the grade i always like to have 1 or 2 other people climb it so i can get an accurate grade.
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rjtrials
Dec 7, 2003, 11:47 PM
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I usually have the holds for two or three routes arranged by size into several buckets. The gym i worked for had a "lift" that you just stood on and placed the holds from.
The lift was basically a railed platform that could be raised to 30 odd feet. The platform was supported by a wheeled base and the "lift" could be moved around like a little tractor. A very sweet setup.
One of the pluses of this system is you can work three or four moves from the platform as you set the route. Thus almost elimenating the need for furthar "tweaking" the route.
RJ
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c_kryll
Dec 12, 2003, 2:41 AM
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I prefer ladders, and setting from the ground up. I usually have one or two specific moves that I want in the climb and then set the rest of the climb around those moves. When I do use the rope to set, I'll ascend using a TRE:Sirrus or Gri-Gri and a daisy chain girth hitched to my belay loop that I can clip into the quickdraws. I'll trail a second rope that is attached with another daisy to my 5 gal. bucket, so when I pull it up I can easily adjust where I want the bucket to hang from my belay loop. Our wrench tool has both sizes on one handle and fits nicely into a gear loop, I'll usually carry two just in case I drop one. I prefer to put 5-6 holds up, try the moves and then adjust as needed; with the daisy chain attached to the 5 gal bucket I can clip that to a hanger if I want to try a couple of moves while I'm on the wall.
Chris
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j_ung
Dec 13, 2003, 12:28 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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In reply to: The gym i worked for had a "lift" that you just stood on and placed the holds from. RJ
Oh my god! That rules!
I set as high as I can from a ladder, usually 2-3 routes at a time, then go on rope with a bucket for the rest. I never climb the moves until I'm done. Set, then tweak. On the really steep stuff, I do kind of a combo TR/aid solo thing. Hard to explain, but works great.
At least I thought so... until I heard about the lift. Sweet, man. Sweet.
j_ung
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halfstep
Dec 14, 2003, 1:28 AM
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The gym I route set at has a lift and ladders. There is only one lift and usually 2-3 route setters working at a time so we fight over who gets the lift (usually first come, first serve).
The lift is awesome since you can lay out all your holds with bolts in them already and just start throwing them up as your imagination wishes.
When on the ladder I put the holds with bolts in them already in a 5 gallon bucket and trail it up behind me as I go up. When I get to the top of the ladder (not the top of the wall) I'll start to solo up the wall with a Gri-Gri and a prussik.
I usually just visualize the moves as I set then once they are all up I'll climb the route and tweak it a bit and then let my fellow route setters give it a go. We come back the next day to climb all new set routes to grade them. I've found it difficult to grade routes on the same day as I set them.
Half-step
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dirko
Dec 14, 2003, 3:16 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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The nature of my wall is such that holds are changed every few months, no sooner. I thus set from existing holds.
I fix a TR by anchoring one end to ground, then self belay (GriGRri) with only tape and wrenches on my harness. My route-setting method is intensive on working moves. I back up the GriG with knots every so often in case I catch the lever when I fall. Assuming you are not changing holds, this set-up is pretty bitchin'.
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dlintz
Dec 14, 2003, 4:10 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
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I solo up and bolt them on one at a time.
Did I mention that this is on a bouldering wall. 8)
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diodesanddihedrals
Dec 15, 2003, 7:21 AM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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I'll start with an idea of the type of climb. I usually like to train for an outdoor route that I couldn't get. I'll start with the largest holds, then replace ones that are too big with smaller ones until I'm happy with it
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