|
zacrobinson
Jan 6, 2004, 5:47 PM
Post #1 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 198
|
Hey
I am heading up to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in North Arkansas this weekend. We will be climbing on the 10, 11, and 12th. I was wondering what some of the "classic" routes are around there. We climb mostly in the 5.9 and 5.10 area with maybe a few 11's if we are feeling real good.
Any info at all on the place would be greatly appreciated.
post here or drop me an e-mail.
ZAC
|
|
|
|
|
superdiamonddave
Jan 6, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #2 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 443
|
There are guidebooks available for cheap $ when you get there. Definately check out the North Forty area. It has several really nice moderates that are well bolted. Have fun!
|
|
|
|
|
zacrobinson
Jan 8, 2004, 4:08 AM
Post #3 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 198
|
bumpity bump bump bump
|
|
|
|
|
yevquest
Jan 8, 2004, 5:30 AM
Post #4 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 71
|
We climbed there before christmas, a nice place. The north forty does have some nice routes but it's also the most crowded. I assume you've downloaded the topos from climbhcr.com, they're pretty good. I'll try to recommend some routes (from memory) as well as give you some beta on areas that should be warm.
The goat cave: has 2 or 3 routes that you might like to try. The 10 is ok, as is the easier 11. Both are fairly steep on good holds. Gets good sun in the afternoon...good place to end the day.
Crackhouse alley, Confed Cracks, Ren and Stimpy, Prophecy wall. Some cool routes here, nice gear lines, but avoid the area if it's cold. Gets very early sun and never really warms up. If it's decently warm the 10 in the prophecy wall area is fun and fairly steep for the grade.
North 40. Some of the easy routes here are quite fun, just climb what looks good but be forewarned that this is the most popular wall in the canyon. Corn Grinder is an excellent 11a if you do the ao start (clip the first bolt and yard up, skipping the boulder problem). We found that as you go farther down the wall, past crimp scampi (another excellent 10), the routes get less travel and didn't seem as good.
Mullet Buttress/Land of the Lost: Some of the routes are cold/seepy, didn't seem as good as some of the other walls.
Magoo Rock: Good place to warm up if you're starting a little late (gets sun around 10 or 11). Fairly steep (for the grades) jughauls, definitely worth a stop. None of the routes stuck out as being a lot better (or worse) than the others.
Roman Wall. Get's lots of sun from late morning on. You definitely want to stop here. Comotus, Sybarite, Spartacus are all good.
A little farther down the canyon is the cliffs of insanity and far east. Montezuma's toe is really easy and climbs a pretty cool rock formation. Orange crush is long with excellent views at the top. King Kong and Emotional Content are both good 10's. Horseshoes and Handgrenades is a classic 10 face climb.
Hope this helps,
--Brent
|
|
|
|
|
zacrobinson
Jan 8, 2004, 11:37 PM
Post #5 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 198
|
awesome that is exactly the kind of stuff I wanted to hear. Thank you very much and hopefully I will post on how great the trip was in a few days.
ZAC
|
|
|
|
|
jesusismyhomeboy
Jan 15, 2004, 3:57 AM
Post #6 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 34
|
Has anyone stayed at the cabins on the ranch? I called and they were only 54 bucks a night...each cabin has four queen beds!!!! Sounds like a heck of a deal?? Any info is appreciated..
Thanks
-Matt
|
|
|
|
|
bsignorelli
Jan 15, 2004, 4:51 AM
Post #7 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 415
|
I think we're planning on grabbing one or two cabins this weekend (depending on how many people come out).
I haven't stayed in them but they are supposed to be real nice. Mini-fridge and microwave included. And the ranch provides firewood for you too.
Stop by and say hi thought we'll only be there Sat night and Sun (most probably). I drive a black Frontier with a camper top.
Bryan
|
|
|
|
|
jesusismyhomeboy
Jan 15, 2004, 4:33 PM
Post #8 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 34
|
Bryan,
Thanks for the info. I would stop by but we aren't going to be there this weekend, probably sometime in February. Hope you have a fun and safe trip!
-Matt
|
|
|
|
|
wildiowa
Jan 15, 2004, 4:46 PM
Post #9 of 9
(3062 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2003
Posts: 11
|
Crimp Scampi 5.10d is probably the best route in the range your talking about. It's awesome. Corn Grinder is also good but you can skip the V6 boulder prob at the start.
|
|
|
|
|
|
