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collegekid
Jan 8, 2004, 7:06 AM
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exactly how hard is it?
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dmr
Jan 8, 2004, 5:47 PM
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I don't think that there are too many people that have actually done that problem. I can only remember witnessing two people do it over the last 10-15 years. Granted, these two ascents occurred before the bouldering craze. Maybe there are some strong young climbers that have been doing it recently.
I have worked on it intermittently over the years. It feels much harder than the other B1 rated problems out there. I not calibrated to the V-Scale so I won't even try to guess.
Hopefully, someone will reply who has actually done it. I'd be interested in hearing what they think.
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ntu_soca
Jan 8, 2004, 5:59 PM
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I don't think that climb is anything close to 5.10 i think in the book it's 5.10+. it feels like 5.12 or something. it's all arms. there are no good foot holds. i pretty much hung from my arms and pulled down until i could get one foot to match my hands. good luck!
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dmr
Jan 8, 2004, 6:15 PM
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In reply to: I don't think that climb is anything close to 5.10 i think in the book it's 5.10+. it feels like 5.12 or something. it's all arms. there are no good foot holds. i pretty much hung from my arms and pulled down until i could get one foot to match my hands. good luck!
I think you're talking about a different probelm. Suzie's Mantle is the 5.10 facing the road, throw a left foot up and mantle. Discharge or whateverit'scalled is the west facing overhanging face climb and is at the very least a 5.12 or something.
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collegekid
Jan 8, 2004, 7:30 PM
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i'm asking because the s.d. climbing guide has it as a v6 stand start, v10 sit start. I've never finished off a v6 before, but i've made progress on the ones i have attempted. However suzy's discharge seems much harder (heck, most of the stuff at santee is sanbagged anyway...) I just wanna know how much it's sandbagged, and if it's even realistic for me to work on it. So far, all i can do is get my right foot on and throw to touch the next hold (but i'm not even close to grabbing it).
Oh, and suzy's mantel...supposed to be 5.10, but i'd give it at least a 5.11- (v2).
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xanx
Jan 8, 2004, 7:39 PM
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i thought it was very, well, wet and slimy....
... oh wait, wrong topic!
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pbjosh
Jan 8, 2004, 7:48 PM
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One of the best ~ V6 problems in San Diego is @ Woodson. It's on the steep 12' boulder adjoining Karl's Error / Shawn's Knobs. Sit start just left of the arete and work up rails and slopers up and right to a gnarly throw for the flat lip. Old guides / topos list it as "11+ dyno" but the dyno is probably V5 on it's own. The rest of it is hard but not the end of the world. Linking the whole thing still escapes me. There's a harder straight up the arete w/ funk body position and barely discernable slopers, but the classic is the link into the dyno.
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pbjosh
Jan 8, 2004, 7:50 PM
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Additionally, checking in somewhere around V5 or harder (hard to rate, requires a lot of biceps and body strength) is Silk Banana at Woodson. Amazing 15-20' undercling / crappy pinch with high slick feet. Each move harder than the last. Trick topout. Definitely one of the classic San Diego boulder problems. It was in the photo section of one of the rags ~3 years back.
http://crag.assimilation.org/...-03/IMG_2184-768.JPG
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jhump
Jan 8, 2004, 7:56 PM
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My buddy Nick can tell you all about this one. His experience was epic. Grips were thrown over the course of several visits. Then he committed and took an all out stab at it with intent to penetrate its defenses. Getting over its big nose continually repelled him, but he persisted. The crux finishing move left him soaked and ultimately rejected, but happy to be able to tell the tale.
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dmr
Jan 9, 2004, 1:57 AM
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In reply to: One of the best ~ V6 problems in San Diego is @ Woodson. It's on the steep 12' boulder adjoining Karl's Error / Shawn's Knobs.
Josh,
Where exactly is this problem? If you are facing Shawn's, is it on the boulder to the right? I haven't checked all my old guides, but did check the Fry guide. The only thing near there, was the Eppulator (B1), but I thought that was on the other side of the boulder.
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pbjosh
Jan 9, 2004, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: One of the best ~ V6 problems in San Diego is @ Woodson. It's on the steep 12' boulder adjoining Karl's Error / Shawn's Knobs. Josh, Where exactly is this problem? If you are facing Shawn's, is it on the boulder to the right? I haven't checked all my old guides, but did check the Fry guide. The only thing near there, was the Eppulator (B1), but I thought that was on the other side of the boulder.
If you're facing Shawn's Knobs it's to your left and slightly behind you, on a separate boulder. If you're facing Karl's Error (the very overhanging chossy dihedral to the left of Shawn's Knobs) it's right behind you. It's pretty obvious and usually has chalk. It's also damned burly.
I've never tried Eppulator - that's the crystal dike on the other side of the boulder from Shawn's Knobs, correct?
Also do you know where Epicenter is?
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collegekid
Jan 11, 2004, 6:34 AM
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"checking in somewhere around V5 or harder (hard to rate, requires a lot of biceps and body strength) is Silk Banana at Woodson"
That figures...sd climbing guide has it as v4, yet i could barely get halfway up the thing. No wonder.
Anyway, so no one knows how hard suzy's discharge really is? If it's truly a v6, then it shouldn't be so uncommon to have climbed it.
another shameless request for beta: I heard somewhere that the s.d.s. to "jumpstart" is ~v7...is this true?
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pbjosh
Jan 12, 2004, 4:29 AM
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In reply to: "checking in somewhere around V5 or harder (hard to rate, requires a lot of biceps and body strength) is Silk Banana at Woodson" That figures...sd climbing guide has it as v4, yet i could barely get halfway up the thing. No wonder.
My point wasn't that it was a particular grade. If you've been on it you know that climbing it is unrelated to climbing some particular grade. It's a very powerful and exhausting problem with some unique body english. Very hard to assign a grade to as it's not comparable to many other climbs. BTW, most people make it about 1/2-2/3 of the way across the thing to where the feet get a little steeper and the pinch a little worse.
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collegekid
Jan 14, 2004, 5:08 AM
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not trying to start a grade argument :D , just looking for beta. If anyone wants to mention any other fun boulder problems (especially easy cracks, i'm just getting into crack climbing), please do so.
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pbjosh
Jan 14, 2004, 6:11 AM
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In reply to: not trying to start a grade argument :D , just looking for beta. If anyone wants to mention any other fun boulder problems (especially easy cracks, i'm just getting into crack climbing), please do so.
I think the above two are the best two "boulder problems" in the modern sense at Woodson - very hard with liveable landings, as opposed to alot of Woodson stuff which is a question of balls and nerve to do unroped.
Anyways, San Diego easy cracks? Obviously at Santee there are a bunch of crappy cracks, including Masochist crack, 5.9 at the hardest, don't listen to the pansies that tell you it's harder - it's not. Mission Gorge has some decent leads - Crack of Dust 5.7, Gallwas Crack 5.9 and Rectum Roof 5.10c (? don't remember very well) are nice.
The real place to crack climb in San Diego is Woodson, however. Here's a good way to start. I'll put solo next to the ones that tend to get solo'd more or that make more sense, as obviously anything COULD be solo'd if you wanted.
Elsa's Crack 5.6 hands/fingers - lead, solo or TR from gear
Backside of righthand entrance boulder 5.7 fists - boulder (also the downclimb)
Tower 2 crack 5.7 hands/fingers - lead or solo
Sickle Crack 5.8 OW - lead or TR from bolts.
Slant Crack 5.9 hands - boulder
John's Crack 5.9 hands - boulder
Baby Robbin's Crack 5.9 off fingers - boulder
Grainstorm hand crack 5.9 hands - solo or TR from gear
Grainstorm finger crack 5.9 fingers - solo or TR from gear
Eric's Crack 5.9 squeeze/OW - TR from above, belayer sits in crack
Robbin's Crack 5.10a hands - lead or solo
Rockwork Orange 5.10a hands - lead, solo or TR from gear
Manuel's Horror 5.10b hands/fists - lead, solo or TR from slung block
Crucible 5.10b OW - TR from bolts or lead
Marshmallow Tower crack 5.10b fingers & traverse - lead
Backside of the Ogre 5.10b hands - lead
Ride the Lightening 5.10d cupped hands, wicked steep - TR from gear or solo
Jaws 5.11a fingers to hands - TR from gear or solo
If you get through this, here're are the classic hard cracks
Ogre 5.11a OW to hands to fingers - lead or TR from bolts
California Night 5.11b fingers - boulder or TR from bolts
Hear My Train Acomin' 5.11c fingers - solo or TR from bolts (realistically 5.12)
Driving South 5.11d fingers - solo or TR from gear - steep!
Mother Superior 5.11d OW to fingers - TR from bolts
Robbin's Crack is the most classic and good training for hands. When you're really solid on it and can lead it with one piece of gear, think about solo'ing it, the crux is low. Then down solo it. This is the first real Woodson right of passage.
Hear My Train Acomin' is definitely the crack to work towards at Woodson, it is very demanding, very classic, very sandbagged, and earns you some bragging rights. Soloing it , you pass the Woodson hardman test or something like that - definitely a right of passage beyond Robbin's Crack.
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collegekid
Jan 14, 2004, 7:39 AM
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thanks :D
just looked up some of the stuff in the sd climbing guide...it lists "hear my train acomin" as 5.12-
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pbjosh
Jan 14, 2004, 5:37 PM
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In reply to: thanks :D just looked up some of the stuff in the sd climbing guide...it lists "hear my train acomin" as 5.12-
Anyone that's climbed up there a lot will tell you that it's 5.11c, that's the "historic grade for it," but Kennedy's not the only person who's offered to uprate it. I can't really say how hard it is because it kinda feels impossible until you do it and then it's still hard but seems more reasonable. But it definitely feels harder than .11c
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amedee
Jan 14, 2004, 9:12 PM
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Thanks for the list Josh. I started working California Night last weekend. What other boulderable cracks do you recommend? I love climbing cracks!
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dmr
Jan 14, 2004, 9:31 PM
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Josh,
Nice list. You should repost and link it Woodson. It would probably start an interesting discussion on hardman/softbody circuits out there.
Derek
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collegekid
Apr 10, 2004, 9:05 PM
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update...
I met a guy named Cal in the Sad boulders of Bishop, who said he was from S.D. and had climbed at Santee for ~15 years. He said the stand start is around v9, and that years ago the dirt level below the climb was lower, which actually made the problem easier than it is now. Anyway, I'm not letting the knowledge that it could be much harder than v6 stop me from throwing myself at it over and over again. :D
I would like to know an approximate grade to the sds for Jumpstart, though...
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pyrosis
Apr 30, 2004, 10:05 PM
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Hey anyone know what the problem just to the right of Suzys discharge is? It looks very hard.. Funny I was looking at the SDS to jumpstart as well the other day.. *whew* need to get stronger first.
Tavis
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t-dog
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Apr 30, 2004, 10:46 PM
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In reply to: Suzy's discharge has always been called 12+ thats like v6 and this is pure finger tip strength there is no way to make up for it.
And also remember that problems of the same grade can be light years apart in terms of difficulty for you for one reason or another.
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collegekid
May 2, 2004, 4:11 PM
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reasons such as...being incredibly sandbagged?
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collegekid
May 8, 2004, 10:57 PM
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sorry, I spoke with Cal briefly (didn't get any contact info). He lives in Bishop though.
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