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crackaddict
Mar 13, 2002, 10:05 PM
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I am going to Red Rocks this weekend. I was wondering if anyone has climbed Desert Gold 5.13, Desert Reality-Desert Crack link together. I want to get on it but wondering if anyone had any info on it before I do?
Thanks.
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-03-13 14:41 ]
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smithclimber
Mar 13, 2002, 11:07 PM
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I don't remember the exact location, but it's back in one of the canyons I believe. Long approach if memory serves. I think the finger crack is 12+ and the roof crack is 11+. Pretty sure there is a jug at the end of the roof crack. Supposedly, the best tip for success is to NOT stop very often to place gear. Apparently, everyone gets fried trying to place the gear. The more comfortable you get in spacing the gear the more your odds improve. Not much to go on, but it's all I've got. Good luck.
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sizzlechest
Mar 14, 2002, 1:04 AM
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if you split it into two leads it's 12c, then 11a hands, giver the duke and do it in one. the 12c is just large pulls off good locks with not alot for the feet, classic route, i think the crux is yellow and orange tcu's, the roof is easy at 11a or b hands
enjoy wish i was there
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crackaddict
Mar 14, 2002, 3:18 AM
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Thanks smithclimber and sizzlechest your info will be really helpful.
If anyone else has anymore beta let me know.
I appreciate it.
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crackwhore
Mar 14, 2002, 4:21 AM
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Desert Gold is da kine...
you should also check out the Eliminator crack. one of the best desert fingercracks outside Indian Creek. its on the north satellite of mount Wilson.
check out the Cloud Tower up Juniper canyon next to Crimson Chrysalis.
these will be a good Barometer...
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crackaddict
Mar 14, 2002, 10:19 PM
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Thanks crackwhore. I checked out Eliminator crack and cloud tower in the guide book they both sound good as well. Hopefully time will permit and my partners (aka. belay slaves) will put up.
Later.
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-03-14 14:20 ]
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