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one900johnnyk
Jan 16, 2004, 1:50 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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you're at the second belay, belaying the leader. you have a great anchor the leader built for a downward pull. why is the upward pull piece always connected to the anchor system rather than the belayer directly??
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gunkiemike
Jan 16, 2004, 3:02 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
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You can do it either way, but it harder to keep it taut if it's on the belayer (they move in, it falls out. More of a concern with passive gear of course)
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mrme
Jan 16, 2004, 4:17 AM
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Registered: Oct 5, 2003
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you are setting on two bomber nut placements sloted down a vertical crack you have a third peice bellow you attached to you a leader fall happens onto a peice of gear. he falls long and lifts you up because there is no tension on the sling bellow you. it lifts the nuts up and out as it pulls you up also. well that good bomber peice your friend fell on was in questionable rock so the placement now fails. unfortanatlly it was his only peice so now he falls to the belly that has one peice in. well you better hope it holds by a miricial of shifting into a better placement. because the way it is placed now is in the wrong direction of pull and will probablly rip out when he hits the end of the rope: if it never already failed do to your body wait pulling it in the wrong direction. just make sure if you attach directly to yourself that you make sure those top peice are multidirectional or pulled taunt enough by oposing them with that upward peice. from experince of figuring anchors out pretty much on my own it is really hard to attach onesself to the upward oriented peice directly and still have it tuant enough not to pull you up while hanging on the other gear. it is way easer to conect it to the rest of the anchor and tell how tuant it is.
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andypro
Jan 16, 2004, 8:59 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2003
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In reply to: you're at the second belay, belaying the leader. you have a great anchor the leader built for a downward pull. why is the upward pull piece always connected to the anchor system rather than the belayer directly??
If for some reason you need to escape the belay, and that piece is attatched ot you and not the anchor, the anchor no longer has the benefit of that piece.
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