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calamity_chk
Jan 23, 2004, 5:19 AM
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does anyone know how accurate the topos/descriptions in the selected climbs book are for the hippie route? i've heard that the book doesnt always have the most accurate information, and i have a friend coming up from oklahoma who i dont want to sandbag or get lost on the route.
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brianinslc
Jan 23, 2004, 9:58 PM
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In reply to: does anyone know how accurate the topos/descriptions in the selected climbs book are for the hippie route? i've heard that the book doesnt always have the most accurate information, and i have a friend coming up from oklahoma who i dont want to sandbag or get lost on the route.
If yer talkin' about the standard route folks use to climb Ancient Art to the summit of the corkscrew summit, then, yeah, its reasonably accurate.
Hard to get lost. Follow the well worn trail. Start at the base, find the easy ground (kinda to the right then traverse back to the chimney on the left) with no move harder than 5.7. Then, free or A0 (easy to pull on the draws without aiders) the short steep section to the anchor. The chimney is really fun. 5.8 and protects very well (we took a pretty light rack, single BD camalots to 3 and a few stoppers, draws and slings).
Hardest move is gettin' past the diving board. Exposure is severe. Fun!
I think the climbmoab website has good recent beta.
Few pics here: http://mtncommunity.org/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=1414&forum=DCForumID1
Brian in SLC
http://mtncommunity.org/...3f9454ca62a2e953.jpg
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superdiamonddave
Jan 23, 2004, 10:19 PM
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I have got to tick that route the next time I'm passing through. What a photo op.
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madmax
Jan 23, 2004, 10:29 PM
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In reply to: If yer talkin' about the standard route folks use to climb Ancient Art to the summit of the corkscrew summit, then, yeah, its reasonably accurate.
He's not talking about Stolen Chimney. There is a route to the right called the Hippie Route. I don't know anyone who has done it, but I might do Stolen Chimney tomorrow; maybe we'll check out the Hippie Route as well. If we do, I'll let you know how it went.
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copperhead
Jan 23, 2004, 11:16 PM
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In reply to: He's not talking about Stolen Chimney.
He?????
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flamer
Jan 23, 2004, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: He's not talking about Stolen Chimney. He?????
You mean nobody told you that Amber is really a cross dresser?
Funny, I thought everybody knew....
josh
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deleted
Deleted
Jan 23, 2004, 11:52 PM
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... the most cunningly successful sex-change operation ever pulled off.
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atg200
Jan 24, 2004, 3:27 AM
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the hippie route and stolen chimney are not the same thing. the stolen chimney is really easy, and the hippie route is scary by all accounts. i have not done it, but if you want a route in that difficulty range of free climbing that is safe and reasonably well protected you are better off doing something like dark angel in arches, lightning bolt cracks in indian creek, or one of the popular 5.10/5.11 cracks route in castle valley(jah man, north face castleton, fine jade, honyemoon chimney, etc). hippie route is supposed to be scary.
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calamity_chk
Jan 24, 2004, 6:52 AM
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hey guys, thanks for the beta. max, pm with beta or post here. i'm interested to hear more about the line.
atg - i'm certainly down for stolen chimney since it's such a classic and agree that hippie route is pretty sketch for my abilities, but my partner is interested in the route so i thought i'd gather what info i could and make a decision from there. (the partner is a solid leader and was climbing before you or i were born, so i trust his judgement.) though, i doubt that we'll make an absolute decision until we talk about it a bit and actually see the line - you can rest assured that i'm very simply gathering information here. ;)
we'll be in moab for a week so we'll probably make it to castle valley and onion creek as well as lusting after other towers in the fishers. (hindu and fine jade are also pretty high on the ticklist, but finding beta on them is a bit easier.)
best,
amber
In reply to: You mean nobody told you that Amber is really a cross dresser? Funny, I thought everybody knew.... |
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calamity_chk
Jan 24, 2004, 7:21 AM
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hey guys, thanks for the beta. max, pm with beta or post here. i'm interested to hear more about the line.
atg - i'm certainly down for stolen chimney since it's such a classic and agree that hippie route is pretty sketch for my abilities, but my partner is interested in the route so i thought i'd gather what info i could and make a decision from there. (the partner is a solid leader and has been climbing since before you or i were born, so i trust his judgement.) honestly, i doubt that we'll make an absolute decision until we talk about it a bit and actually see the line - though, you can rest assured that i'm very simply gathering information here. ;)
also, we'll be in moab for a week so we'll probably make it to castle valley and onion creek as well as lusting after other towers in the fishers. (hindu and fine jade are also pretty high on the ticklist, but finding beta on them is a bit easier.)
best,
amber
ps - thanks for blowing my cover, flamer .. i thought we were friends. (amber pokes her tongue out at flamer, "meanie" .. wait, that wasnt very manly .. amber steals flamer's beer, no wait .. flamer drinks light beer. amber winks at flamer's woman and punches him .. heh.)
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