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mntnman1973
Feb 19, 2004, 4:11 PM
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http://omegapac.com/innovative2.html
This is an AWSOME cam, however the price is up there. How many of us are going to be knocking down OP's door to get a hold of these?
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voriand
Feb 19, 2004, 4:29 PM
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Those would be great in making racks more versatile.
Hope they work as well as they look.
Can't find the proposed price. How much?
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mntnman1973
Feb 19, 2004, 4:34 PM
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I believe they are looking at $85-95 and starting with three sizes
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voriand
Feb 19, 2004, 4:36 PM
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That is not too bad considering they cover 2 to 3 cam ranges.
They would be great for slamming a cam in when hanging on a real dicey hold.
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petro
Feb 19, 2004, 4:41 PM
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I'm extremely interested in finding out where the optimums are here. Will they be like BD Camalots, strongest in a certain area? Will there be a middle point that isn't so good? Looks like a lot of surface area for when that sucka is cammed all the way down, could be good, could be bad.
How do I get my hands on a couple of these?
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traddad
Feb 19, 2004, 4:52 PM
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First off, Bravo! Innovations like this should be rewarded.
But……I’m a little worried about the complexity of this system. I see WAY too many pivot points, pins, springs, whirring bits, etc to make my Luddite heart happy. That which can go wrong, will. How will these things perform when dirty?
Damn good thing these aren’t designed by Bill Gates……
Now a REALLY cool innovation would be to make standard cams that weigh ˝ what they do now, so you could carry twice as many.
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flagpolewizard
Feb 19, 2004, 4:59 PM
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I think its an awsome idea, could be the next big thing but it does look pretty complex, between the two I think that max cam is going to end up having an edge even though its design looks a bit sketchy to me it is much simpler
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piton
Feb 19, 2004, 5:00 PM
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seems like to many moveable parts. nice new idea though.
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cracklover
Feb 19, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Looks incredibly cool to me.
GO
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outdoormikeg
Feb 19, 2004, 5:28 PM
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I had a chance to play with that cam in Ouray and let me tell you I will be lining up to get the three sizes!!!
Great for those times when you're gripped and can't seem to find the right size cam...or for those funny shaped cracks that just don't seem to want to take anything...
Yes they look complex but they are definately a specialty piece that you probably won't use every day but will be nice to have...
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jumaringjeff
Feb 19, 2004, 5:54 PM
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Wow that does look awesome. I have to admit though, my initial reaction was also that there are too many moving parts/pivot points.
I'm a firm believer in the KISS method (keep it simple stupid).
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geezergecko
Feb 19, 2004, 9:09 PM
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Ah! Ah! I want one! Reminds me of the creature in the movie Alien. Sugestively pornographic.
I suppose the first cams, ie. Friends looked way too complicated to the climbers of the 70s when the hex ruled. Let's see who calls these "cheating".
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hosh
Feb 19, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Waiting to see them in person to form an opinion. They look... interesting... :?
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cracklover
Feb 19, 2004, 10:19 PM
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In reply to: I had a chance to play with that cam in Ouray and let me tell you I will be lining up to get the three sizes!!! Great for those times when you're gripped and can't seem to find the right size cam...or for those funny shaped cracks that just don't seem to want to take anything... Yes they look complex but they are definately a specialty piece that you probably won't use every day but will be nice to have...
GO
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murf
Feb 19, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Can hardly wait to see these stuck in cracks about town. If someone can get a cam stuck with 4 regular lobes, how about with 8 ( ish )? You are fiddling with the smallest "lobes" on this puppy, and the previous two sets keep catching, or you put it in a flare and 2 or more sets have caught... The permutations are endless.
Pretty creative however.
Murf
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moeman
Feb 19, 2004, 11:10 PM
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In reply to: Can hardly wait to see these stuck in cracks about town. If someone can get a cam stuck with 4 regular lobes, how about with 8 ( ish )? You are fiddling with the smallest "lobes" on this puppy, and the previous two sets keep catching, or you put it in a flare and 2 or more sets have caught... The permutations are endless. Pretty creative however. Murf
Looks like 12 lobes to me.
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petro
Feb 20, 2004, 12:04 AM
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Do the larger lobes do anything if placed in a small crack where the smaller lobes make the contact?
They look like after they are opened they just go limp, which can simply be embarassing.
I'm definately going to purchase at least one of these, thought they looked really cool at first, but the more I thought, the more skeptical I am.
No good for shallow placements?
There is a route in my home canyon called "I promise not to cam in your mouth" HA!
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piton
Feb 20, 2004, 1:59 PM
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when cammed out they would be no good for shallow placements.
also your normal slcd's the cam is solid and acting on axial. these cams open up and pivot on a rivet that connects the carved out cams together. Which in imo has a chance to create weak or dead points in camming unit. I’m sure reviews will tell us more.
And whoever said it would be good in desperate situation shouldn’t be trad climbing. Part of trad climbing is having a eye to put in pro in safe and solid gear without fumbling around with your whole rack. Being able to figure what gear you need in head of time.
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cracklover
Feb 20, 2004, 3:08 PM
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From the look of them, it does seem that once the lobes move off the main axle, they are no longer engaged at all. In other words, you don't get three times the camming action in a deep crack, the disengaged lobes *shouldn't* get stuck, and the critter should work just as well in shallow cracks as any other four cam unit, it would just have some other cams flopping around outside the crack - big deal.
But I haven't had a chance to actually try one, so my $0.02 isn't worth much. That's why I wanted to hear more from outdoormike.
GO
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murf
Feb 20, 2004, 3:36 PM
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The example was for only two set ( 8 lobes ). 3 sets ( 12 lobes ) also seems possible.
Murf
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piton
Feb 20, 2004, 3:52 PM
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In reply to: and the critter should work just as well in shallow cracks as any other four cam unit, it would just have some other cams flopping around outside the crack - big deal.
:roll: so i guess with these OP cams, the percentage of cam that comes in contact with the rock doesn't matter then. i can just imagine those pivot points sticking out when a little walking occurs or up and down jarring. brilliant cracklover
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taualum23
Feb 20, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Well, the percentage of cam in contact with the rock seems like it would be the same as any placement of a similar sized cam as what the OP is approximating at any level of retraction.
However, your point about the outer cams acting as "pivot points" when the unit is in a shallwo crack does concern me. I'll have to feel this thing out in a few placements to form an opinion.
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cracklover
Feb 20, 2004, 4:27 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: and the critter should work just as well in shallow cracks as any other four cam unit, it would just have some other cams flopping around outside the crack - big deal. :roll: so i guess with these OP cams, the percentage of cam that comes in contact with the rock doesn't matter then. i can just imagine those pivot points sticking out when a little walking occurs or up and down jarring. brilliant cracklover
My point is that it looks like you've always got only *one* (either big, medium, or small) set of cams that are doing any work. The other ones appear not to cam against any pivot point. I didn't say anything about the percentage of a set of cams that contacts the rock.
Could you please clarify your point?
GO
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piton
Feb 20, 2004, 5:15 PM
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my point is that the cams small medium or large may act independtly but they are all connected to each cam. since they are all connected they don't act independtly. so that when the cam is fully extended (at it's smallest pt.) shallow placements wouldn't be great and imo you would need more surface area for the unit to come in contact with the rock for a bomber placement.
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aarong
Feb 20, 2004, 5:43 PM
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Very S & M looking. Do you have to wear leather and chains when you place them?
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