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kmunderground
Feb 21, 2004, 4:02 AM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2002
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I've got a friend that wants to learn how to place gear and lead, and I told him I'd teach him what I know. He lives in Boise, ID. My problem is that most of my climbing has been in the Southwest and I'd be teaching him in May or June. I've climbed a little at City of Rocks and Smith Rock, but that's it for the Northwest. I'm looking for a place that has lots of moderate single and/or 2 pitch climbs under 5.8 that take good pro and are fine to toprope (I can lead to set that up). Just looking for ideas on where to go considering weather and available climbs. Will consider anywhere within a days drive from Boise or near enough to an airport to make it feasible. Give me some ideas and why they would be good.
Kelly
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curt
Feb 21, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Pop for two airline tickets and take him to the Gunks.
Curt
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holdplease2
Feb 21, 2004, 4:56 AM
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Gunks! Gunks! Gunks! Not in the northwest, though.
You might have fun exploring a new area, not like you can get lost, you can have a great time there, even if it is your first trip! Nice folks to provide great beta!
Plenty of 5.4-5.7 routes, close together. Don't like one? Move on to the next! There is plenty of traffic, so the routes are clean.
...and you can teach your friend...the most important thing about climbing...
How to place the Pink Tricam!
Then you can take the 2 hr drive to NYC and get drunk and look at art or whatever. Nice place, the Gunks.
-Kate.
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herm
Feb 21, 2004, 4:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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Go to leaveanworth in central WA.
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micronut
Feb 21, 2004, 5:53 PM
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have him follow you for about 100 pitches, cleaning and analyzing your gear placements. Then, through him on a pitch that is a couple grades easier than what he's been following. Then whenever the two of you are climbing together and you come across quality pitches that are around that grade, it's his lead.
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mesomorf
Feb 21, 2004, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2002
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In reply to: I'm looking for a place that has lots of moderate single and/or 2 pitch climbs under 5.8 that take good pro and are fine to toprope (I can lead to set that up). Just looking for ideas on where to go considering weather and available climbs. Will consider anywhere within a days drive from Boise or near enough to an airport to make it feasible. |
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kmunderground
Feb 21, 2004, 10:57 PM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2002
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The Gunks would be great, but I doubt if he'd be willing to spring for the airfare. I thought about the City, but am not that familiar with the area. When I was there before I ended up on alot of slabby face climbs, and most of the trad lines we did together were too long for a single rope rappel. He's followed me plenty and I've shown him how to place gear on the ground. Now I'm looking for a place where he can place gear on top-rope. Could you be more specific on particular routes/areas at the City that would be good. I don't want him to end up doing laps on Practice Rock all day.
Kelly
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yanqui
Mar 11, 2004, 7:49 PM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
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Did a couple of nice 5.7 cracks in the City: a thin hands thingie up around the Breadloaves: must have three stars in the guidebook, and another nice crack on Elephant rock (Wheat Thin maybe? or was that Yosemite?) plainly visible from the road. But that's about all I've done that checks in under 5.9 or 5.10
I would definitely go to Leavenworth. The climbs are kind of spread out, but there's lots of cool easy stuff, starting at around 5.3. Get yourself a guide book and make sure you do the 5.7 crack on Givler's dome. On the way there, stop off at Minnehaha in Spokane. There's a classic 5.4, a nice 5.6 open book and three 5.7 crack climbs which can be rehearsed on top rope then led.
Look what you can learn for free on the internet these days.
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