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kreml
Mar 19, 2004, 2:14 AM
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Does anyone know of the local ethics on bolting at old rag mtn VA? Any pesonal views on the issue?
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dontfall
Mar 19, 2004, 2:18 AM
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dontfall moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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ropeburn
Mar 19, 2004, 2:38 AM
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Well, I would say that you should climb there alot and meet the locals that climb there often. This would allow you some insight whether these bolts would be appreciated,... or chopped.
If your looking for sport on the mtn, try sunset walls... lots of good stuff there.
As for personal viewpoint... Aside from new route development ( and as mentioned above I think should know the locals very well ) I see no reason for anchor bolts as trad anchors are readily available. Replacement of some old bolts could possibly be in order, but usually there is placements for modern gear where there was a bolt in the past.
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boss
Mar 19, 2004, 2:47 AM
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I think there are about 40 or so bolted routes at old rag (maybe more), most of which were drilled with a ground-up approach. No bolts by lines that can be lead by traditional means. Someone corret me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming that bolting is allowed. There are some nasty looking hangers and stuff there that could use replacing as well.
Boss
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tim
Mar 19, 2004, 2:58 AM
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Mike Gray will probably chop your shit if it's done on rappel :-)
Seriously though, Chris (strong guy, works at Earth Treks) put up a line not too long ago, in good style -- why not ask him, or the other people who are active up there? Route development continues at Old Rag, but it is within a National Park and it would be wise not to piss off the park service. They will come down on you like a million pounds of frozen shit if they decide that climbers are interfering with other users of the park.
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cadaverchris
Mar 21, 2004, 2:00 AM
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old rag is ground up, with hand drills.
definitely check with locals, and other route developers before trying anything.
Tim had a good suggestion above.
trad routes are a lot easier to establish ;)
happy climbing
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originalpmac
Sep 27, 2008, 3:36 AM
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having never actually roped up there I guess I can't say too much, but I grew up in Rappahannock, and for a long time lived at the foot of that mountain (up Moon road by the Churches on the S turn). I hiked Old Rag for the first time when I was four or so. I used to hike from my house with a little bit of water and some venison sausage and pass all the tourons on the way up and down. I found all types of fun little nooks and crannies and caves and headwaters to the Hughes, encountered a bear on the ridges right before dropping into the chimney alone on a full moon, and I could go on and on.
about bolting though. I since moved away from my dear old southern home and learned to climb in the west and thinking back to Old Rag, the idea of rap bolting scares me. this place is a wonderful and sacred and very old mountain to me and any idea of rap bolted sport routes saddens me. I like to sport climb, but sometime I think you got to let that potential line go, without bolting it. sometimes it is just wrong, (to me at least). I don't know the OP intentions, but please keep the rap bolts far away from the great little mountain.
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