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tall or short
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lazyboy


Apr 5, 2002, 12:15 AM
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tall or short
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Allright I'm 5 inches from being a midget and a friend who I climb with like 6'3. We keep tryin a bouldering route and he can't seem to get it. He seems to think that the height difference seems to be the problem, does anyone honestly think thats it?
-Help a struggling pygmy out


pattray


Apr 5, 2002, 12:28 AM
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Whats your question ??. maybe hes not strong enough or does not know the route.what part of the climb is he having problems with, I'm not understanding what you are asking


jt512


Apr 5, 2002, 12:33 AM
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On some boulder problems height is a disadvantage, but, if you are short, never admit this.



-Jay


miagi


Apr 5, 2002, 1:21 AM
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Two things Ive found:
1. Tall people dont have alot of balance compared to short people, but they can reach higher to get to moves.
2. Short people have better balance because all their weight is close together, but they cant reach all the moves and are forced to dyno


oneballjay


Apr 5, 2002, 1:26 AM
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I found that pretending to be tall can sometimes help.


lostangel


Apr 5, 2002, 1:48 AM
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lzboy,
Where there is a will there is a way! like jt said, if you are short dont admit it!


maculated


Apr 5, 2002, 1:51 AM
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I think, in general, it just means you have to climb differently. My 6' friends redpoint or onsight stuff because they just need to reach higher than I can, but at times their weight is shifted so poorly that they can't do the kinds of moves I can at an average 5'6". Unless a route is meant solely for a tall FA'er, everyone has a different take on the climb.

Not that it stops me from complaining that my friends just reach to the next hold.


roclymber


Apr 5, 2002, 2:11 AM
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Being tall can be very annoying. I am 6'4" and while it's nice for those hard to reach holds, like many of you have mentioned, balance becomes an issue. When I first started climbing, I would always reach for the highest hold that I could, but now Ive trained myself to go for an easier hold rather than higher, because sometimes you get to a point where you have nowhere else to go, and even dynoing isnt an option. Other than over reaching, and certain balance issues that arent addressed early, it is annoying, but I would still prefer to remain tall, and than short.

Though, being tall in general is extremely annoying in everyday society. There isn't a day that goes by when someone somewhere mentions something about my height, and you have no idea how many times I've been asked if I play basketball (which I don') Also too, I hate roller coasters now, becuz though freakin seats are just TOO SMALL. -Sigh I guess it comes with the territory.

Matt

[ This Message was edited by: roclymber on 2002-04-04 18:12 ]


ggraham


Apr 5, 2002, 2:27 AM
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I'm 6'2 and 210 lbs. I find my height a bonus on vertical. My weight gives me problems on the overhanging stuff.


sharmagod


Apr 5, 2002, 2:47 AM
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Im 5'6 and love my height....except when Im near someone tall and have to look up.Ok so maybe I dont love my height but because of my height I do have less body weight to carry and can balance myself more then some of the taller climbers can.Really there are advantages and disadvantages to both being tall and short.The main thing is to find what works for you and to stick with it.


bcmtngrrrl


Apr 5, 2002, 3:41 AM
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  I'm 5'3 and I'd say it's been a disadvantage in a lot of ways. The only bonus is that my tiny hands can jam into cracks that most of my friend's can't. Although I've seen a number of people with the height advantage using brute force over technique, which ends up limiting them at some point.


ace-11
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Apr 5, 2002, 5:26 AM
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I am now 5'9", but a always used to be very short. I have always climbed with a friend that was much taller than me, and there were always climbs that I couldn't do because I couldn't reach some of the moves. But now that I have grown, I am finding routes much easier and we are again at the same level of climbing. For bouldering, I think that the ideal height would be aroung 5'10", that is a pretty average height nowadays and it seems that with being that height you are almost at the ideal beacuse you can reach the smaller people moves as well as the big reaches.


rockrabbit


Apr 8, 2002, 3:28 PM
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I don't think that you can say being tall or even short for that matter affects your climbing. Why try and climb the same as the guy that is tall if you are short. Adapt your climbing to your style and and don't always look for the obvious next move, use a bit of inginuity (sp). Come on guys, only poor climbers use excuses for the crux they can't beat. If you don't get it right they first time, try a different move.

Rock on.


qacwac


Apr 8, 2002, 3:45 PM
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I think about 5'8.5", 150 lbs is the ideal height and weight.

Hmm, I wonder what I am. I think I'll go weigh and measure myself. Wow, what do you know, I'm 5'8.5", 150 lbs.


verbal


Apr 8, 2002, 3:53 PM
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I am 6'7" and although I would rather be 6'7" than 5'7" it is very annoying sometimes. Everyone always tells me that I have such an advantage when climbing because I can reach things easily, but like you guys said keeping proper balance is very difficult at this height. Many boulder problems with sit starts are almost impossible to do becuase of my height. And every one asks if I play basketball, but I do, but I usually say no to through them off.


gilthanass


Apr 8, 2002, 5:06 PM
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 hey verbal and roclymber, I am with you brothers , I am 6'4, and if I do a route some of my friends can't it is "man, you are tall, you could reach that hold easier" that is the most annoying thing in the world. Being tall isn't always an advantage! Oh, and I concure, sit starts are the devil, I am so crunched up I can't even move. And as to the in other places thing, why do people feel like they have to point out the obvious? "wow, you are tall arn't you" I usually just say "maybe you are just short" and they usually shut up . And I don't play basketball, if anyone else asks me if I do I might step on them.

Steve


treyr


Apr 8, 2002, 11:05 PM
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I am a midget at 5'1 and I climb like 5'9

Trob


crux_clipper


Apr 9, 2002, 11:54 AM
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Tall Rocks

(i spent 10 minutes typing out a post, and lost it, so no more typing, 2 words only)


hathor


Apr 9, 2002, 4:08 PM
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I'm 5'4 and I constantly complain about being short. But in a lot of ways it is an advantage - as people have mentioned.
Whenever I boulder with my tall friends I have to find different ways to do the route then what they're able to do. It can be annoying but I've found it a nice challenge


Partner sauron


Apr 9, 2002, 4:39 PM
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.. yet another one for the over-6' club...

6'4" here

and yeah, sit starts SUCK.

- d.


indigo_nite


Apr 9, 2002, 7:54 PM
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I'm 5'2" and sometimes dyno indoors to compensate for tall route setter moves.

Outside, I feel much less limitations from height. But I don't take much visual beta from tall people. (their high steps are Really High)

Lynn Hill is 5'2" and Robin Erbesfield is 5'1 1/2" (the latter authored "Sport Climbing with Robin Erbesfield").

Sometimes using balance, body tension and friction can be more important than reach. If I woke up another six inches taller tomorrow morning, though, I wouldn't complain much.


case22


Apr 10, 2002, 1:36 AM
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I think that I'm tall (for a girl) and I have excellent balance. I don't think that balance has a whole lot to do with it. Perhaps your partner just doesn't have quite the ability to do it? I'm sure that if he just keeps working on it, he'll get it sooner or later. They say practice makes perfect, so tell him to keep at it.


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