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munckee
Mar 26, 2004, 5:45 PM
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Ok, maybe I'm pulling this outa my butt, but I thought that somewhere along the line I heard that the only way to climb the Grand was to contract with Exum guides. Is that true, or can anyone get a climber's permit for the peak?
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tylerm
Mar 26, 2004, 5:48 PM
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I do not think that is true. My freinds went up there a few years back and did Exum Ridge w/o guides. I don't even know what permits they got-but I do know that they did not need a guide...
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brianinslc
Mar 26, 2004, 5:50 PM
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In reply to: Ok, maybe I'm pulling this outa my butt, but I thought that somewhere along the line I heard that the only way to climb the Grand was to contract with Exum guides. Is that true, or can anyone get a climber's permit for the peak?
Yep, right out the ol' poop shooter...
You don't even need a permit to climb the Grand, just to overnight camp.
And, there's two guide services, Exum and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Although I think Exum has exclusive rights to the Exum Ridge.
GTNP ditched climbing permits a few years back. Whoo hoooo! You just show up and go.
You do need a permit for camping overnight in the backcountry, though.
Brian in SLC
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munckee
Mar 26, 2004, 5:52 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Ok, maybe I'm pulling this outa my butt, but I thought that somewhere along the line I heard that the only way to climb the Grand was to contract with Exum guides. Is that true, or can anyone get a climber's permit for the peak? Yep, right out the ol' poop shooter... You don't even need a permit to climb the Grand, just to overnight camp. And, there's two guide services, Exum and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Although I think Exum has exclusive rights to the Exum Ridge. GTNP ditched climbing permits a few years back. Whoo hoooo! You just show up and go. You do need a permit for camping overnight in the backcountry, though. Brian in SLC
Thanks guys. No idea where I got that idea, but hey. Good to see I was wrong.
What's the best moderate route? Exum ridge? Owen's Spaulding?
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rockinice
Mar 26, 2004, 6:03 PM
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just a year or two ago, you only needed a permit from the jenny lake ranger station--be there 30min before they open
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flamer
Mar 26, 2004, 6:22 PM
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In reply to: What's the best moderate route? Exum ridge? Owen's Spaulding?
I don't know if either is the best.
BUT!! Having climbed both(on the same day!) I would say that exum is much better than the OS. More climbing less scrambling....
josh
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shakylegs
Mar 26, 2004, 6:22 PM
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brian, guess I was mistaken also. (or was I?) I thought that Exum had rights to a certain type of access, like Jenny. But, upon reflection, yeah, I was probably mistaken.
Although Exum has a rich history, I feel weird that monopolies (or oligopolies) have control over a mountain. FWIW, my SO got her start outdoors by hiring someone from Jackson Hole Guides, when they opened a service in Red Rocks.
I think someone like rockprodigy more know than I obviously do.
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douggeller
Aug 8, 2004, 6:16 PM
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Although the Teton range is crawling with guided parties in peak season, you don't need a guide to climb any route on the Grand or elsewhere. I would recommend coordination with Exum and JHMG to find out their schedules for Exum and Petzholdt Ridge climbs; get the info. directly from the guide services or possibly Jenny Lake Ranger Station. I don't think the guided parties are on the Grand every day so you could avoid the guided groups altogether with a bit of planning.
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pancaketom
Aug 8, 2004, 6:36 PM
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Exum appears to have a monopoly on their quonset hut building things they have built at the saddle, and maybe to camp there at all. Make sure you use their facilities to lighten your load as you hike past though.
Do it car to car and avoid all the permits entirely. (but it is a loooong day)
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munckee
Aug 8, 2004, 7:39 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. We climbed the Grand about three or four weeks ago without the guide services.
We found:
There were MANY guided clients on the mountian on a daily basis (usually four or five groups with as many as 25-30 total clients).
Anyone can camp at the Lower saddle with a permit. No one is allowed to use the Exum huts or equipment other than Exum (so there's no way to "lighten your load" by leeching off them).
To do the trip car to car you'd have to be very fit. We spent a couple days on the mountain and found it much more comfortable than trying to force a car to car trip. Permits were no problem when we were there.
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climberkid1213
Aug 13, 2004, 4:04 AM
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u dont have to but youll need a permit and i recomend exum guides theyre great especially if u have little outdoor experience
calvin ur my man
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roboclimber
Aug 13, 2004, 4:21 AM
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My understanding is that Exum is so packed during peak season that, without a guide, summitting will take forever. Can anyone confirm or deny that? I have heard horror stories of long waits just to get on the route due to heavy traffic from guided parties.
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munckee
Aug 13, 2004, 7:47 AM
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In reply to: My understanding is that Exum is so packed during peak season that, without a guide, summitting will take forever. Can anyone confirm or deny that? I have heard horror stories of long waits just to get on the route due to heavy traffic from guided parties.
We heard the same thing and ended up having little problem. You can also follow the guides up if you're not familiar with the mtn. Our biggest issue was route finding. It's a very difficult mountain to figure out if you're not familiar with it.
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mikemind2002
Sep 21, 2008, 12:30 AM
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What is the general difficulty of the climbs? I might be up in the Tetons for a wedding this summer and I might go with exum.
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sungam
Sep 21, 2008, 12:51 AM
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mikemind2002 wrote: What is the general difficulty of the climbs? I might be up in the Tetons for a wedding this summer and I might go with exum.
I think the upper exum ridges goes at 5.6, but could be wrong.
I hear it's a must do, though.
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Aceto
Sep 21, 2008, 1:47 AM
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contact exum they will take u up.
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pendereki
Sep 21, 2008, 3:24 AM
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If the standard routes are so crowded, can anyone suggest something on the Grand (or maybe nearby) fun and less crowded?
CM
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