|
timpanogos
Mar 26, 2004, 4:41 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
|
Next project – The Serpent III 5.12a A3 *
Gear list includes – “hooks, heads and a selection of pins”
Ok, so trade routes are going to end up with lots of fixed heads – take them in case they have blown type of deal.
But what about obscure routes (i.e. The Serpent). I have seen/heard of “re-using” heads. I’m not concerned about the cost – just the next guys experience on the route.
So, please tell me about cleaning heads – under what circumstances should I clean my heads?
Chad
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Mar 26, 2004, 11:31 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
Just get a sharp pointed chisel and pry the things out. Or funkness them out. If you dead head them, clean them, since you care about the next guys. Leaving every head fixed is what ruins the experiance.
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Apr 1, 2004, 6:53 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Heads are the worst, in terms of leaving the rock intact. A pin gets knocked back and forth, and falls out. A head, though, requires more of an "I gotta get this piece" vandalism. Sometimes, rarely, you can funk them out, no harm, no foul. But, if they are placed well, the only way to get them out is to drive a knifeblade in and chew rock.
Which brings up the question: is is better or worse to leave them? If you take the head out under duress, the placement may be damaged for good. If you leave it, at worst you have fixed a piece at a spot that may never take another head right there.
Don't clean your heads. Leave them. If you want to climb without leaving heads, do it. But, don't use heads. Heads are essentially permanent pieces, intended to be fixed. Cleaning them at all costs will scar the rock, something we don't want.
|
|
|
|
|
timpanogos
Apr 1, 2004, 7:06 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
|
Thanks Tom, I assumed this would be the best policy also.
|
|
|
|
|
|
