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bellatoris
Apr 9, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #1 of 5
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Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 187
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If anybody has any info on this mega classic please post away. I am mainly concerned about the rainbow country variation and the upper dihedral pitches. We freed the first 9 pitches (sans R.C. variation) and plan on finishing the route next weekend. Any info on bolts, gear needed, long, hard, reachy blank sections, hidden holds, creative rests, or enlightened insight would be super appreciated. I am a little concerned whether a single set of cams to 2" will suffice. I have already obtained some great advice, and look forward to more suggestions.
Many thanks,
Ascanio
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bellatoris
Apr 11, 2004, 6:10 PM
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Registered: May 27, 2003
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here's beta i got pm'd to me:
-single set of cams from blue alien to 2" and single set of stoppers
-from the top of the easy stuff its is an easy traverse left and then up to the base of the first crux diherdral pitch
-it is a one move wonder and might even be bolt protected, the pitch is very short
-the next pitch is 100' or less, and a little pumpy and enduro, theres a spot that you have to put a cam in but your hands in the jam(kind of cool), it's a really good pitch and the hardest crack climbing on the route that I can remember, the upper part of the pitch is thin face on bolts
-from here it is one hard thin move left leaving the belay, and an easy 60m to the summmit, or, a 12b sportclimbing move above your head if you go right, up then left
linking pitches 3 and 4 (that might be 4/5 in the guide book (the 1st pitch variation takes you to the top of 2 in the guidebook) took the most gear
the dihedral pitches are no big deal and no harder than the 2nd (3rd) steep sportclimbing pitch, but they're different (stemming,crack,bouldering skills)
rappel anchors less then 100' apart all the way, don't not see one and pass it, especially if your simu-rapping, (I didn't see the first one standing there with it 3' in front of my face)
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bellatoris
Apr 15, 2004, 8:21 PM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: May 27, 2003
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More beta from other climbers for those interested:
I've climbed the original route(not free). Rainbow country looks pretty intense and exposed. The upper dihedral had I think 2 bomber bolts on the first pitch, looks doable free. The second dihedral pitch had no bolts, thin gear above the lip of the roof. The belay is miss-marked on the Swain topo. It is off left on the face. The last pitch had 1 bolt off the belay and 1 or 2 higher, good gear on this pitch too. The whole upper dihedral looks like a blast to climb free, it's deffinetly the most classic part of the wall. All the bolts on the upper part are bomber, glue ins or 1/2 fixe. Good luck! hope this helps a bit.
From what I have been told the 12+ crux maybe 13- and super thin
I haven't been on it since it was rebolted, so I don't know about the 12+ var. The normal route up the dihedral is pretty straight forward with good jug rests.
The only tricky spot was at the very end of the dihedral about five feet away from the finish jugs. That move spit me off, later I heard that the trick is to head butt the roof?
Best Route I ever did
The Origional Route- there is a 5.11 variation to the left (the 5.12- regular 1st pitch is a tough warmup, although it is not supposed to be that bad)
-after the 2nd dihderal pitch and 60m from the top (2 guidebook pitches) going straight up is 12B, the easier variation has a crux move left (11D) off the belay and the two variations meet 20' above the belay
-you can rap the route with one 60m rope, and the rack is a single set of cams and stoppers to 2"
-Rainbow Country goes out left avoiding the easy middle pitches, it is 5.11 with a very short blank 12+ section
-bring a talon hook if you are not confident about sticking the move
-Emerald city is semi-scary or scary, very hard, loose/poor quality rock at the cruxes, and has probably only been freed the one time
-Sgt Slaughter is really really good and rarlely done (we were supprised to even see chalk on it), it has an awesome 5.12 2nd pitch which goes from 0 tcu's to- 4.5 or 5 camalot
-lots and lots of wide stuff mostly flares with thin cracks in the back
-the other 5.12 pitch (7or8?) is not hard and is only a couple moves
-it is a much more serious than the origional route, the origional route is a sport climb compared to this, it is a little bit loose in a few spots
-double set of cams to 4" and single 4.5 and 5 (or 5 and 6 friend) single set of stoppers, 3 or 4 of the yellow alien/tcu, bring a zip line in case of a bail but if you top out rappel the origional route
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atpeaceinbozeman
Dec 9, 2005, 10:40 PM
Post #4 of 5
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Registered: Oct 17, 2002
Posts: 478
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Was wondering if the rainbow wall will be to cold to try over the new years?
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vegastradguy
Dec 9, 2005, 10:50 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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In reply to: Was wondering if the rainbow wall will be to cold to try over the new years?
its likely to be pretty damn cold. this time of year, the wall sees zero sun and temps have been weird the last couple of weeks- sub freezing nights in RR have been common.
i suppose its up to you about whether you can function in the 30s (consider high 40s/low 50s the sun (for the highs, anyway), subtract for shade).
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