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spike_in_milton
Apr 17, 2002, 3:07 AM
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Being a relative newbie I've been looking at places near to home for some climbing in the Milton area, and given the taxes I pay living in the area I try to avoid that car fee at Rattlesnake Point and Kelso whenever I can
I'll admit a preference to the safety of a TR, but I was fascinated by the talk here about Twiss Rock and drove out to take a look a coupla weeks ago. Looked like fun, although the whole area was covered in snow at the time (I wish the weather would make up its mind after the 29C today). But a quick and extremely careful top-ledge look at some of the crevices also looked to have some interesting TR potential. The escarpment guide is pretty useless for the area... any interesting stuff down there for a TR weenie? Any established/documented routes on the rock itself?
spike_in_milton
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inklein
Apr 17, 2002, 4:07 AM
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Hey Spike
I've done a lil bit of bouldering at Twiss rock. I havnt read or heard of any official problems but there are a few really obvious lines. There is a small, low roof at the far south end of the "cliff" which would be a fun mantle problem. Going north about 20 meters (from memory), the cliff angles away from the road before following it parallel again. On that angled wall there are a few pockets/big ledges that make a fun, short campus problem. On the northern most wall there is a small scooped out area with some neat moves and some obvious series of small "heucos" for some easy warm up problems. I hope this helps. Id be very interested to hear if there are official problems. About top roping.. it really isn't that high.. start on some really easy stuff and build your confidence.. get a pad. Have fun.
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spike_in_milton
Apr 17, 2002, 1:50 PM
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I saw that roof to the south... some idiot thought it'd be a great place for a big bonfire and bush party. The rock is all soot-blackened with sections that have obviously peeled off from heat damage (definitely looking sketchy overall), and the ground is littered with busted beer bottles. *sigh*... I like living in the area, but MAN there's a lot of yahoos around here.
spike
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downshift
Apr 17, 2002, 11:49 PM
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Now in the Crevasses there are a few nice spots for top roping off of trees. That being said the trees are old growth cedars that people want to protect. From an environmental standpoint its probably not a good idea. That being said there is a decent overhang in the crevasse. There are a few other crevasses along the trail that are a bit hard to find and hard to give directions but look around if your bored.
As for the rest of Twiss there are two bolts on the two faces that face the road. Walk along the top and you should be able to find them.
I'm sure there are official documented problems (hence all the wonderful painted ticks) but who has that information, who know?
Hope that helps, I'm there once in a while maybe I'll see you around.
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spike_in_milton
Apr 18, 2002, 9:14 PM
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I saw those small cedars on the edges of some of the crevises, and knowing a thing or two about trees I can tell you they aren't "old growth" by any stretch of the imagination. The cedars up on the exposed cliffs of Mt. Nemo, Rattlesnake Point and Buffalo Crag are an entirely different matter, some being over 1000 years old and easily the oldest trees in Ontario. I try not to even look at, let alone touch one of those... them conservation officers'll getcha .
But the crevises did look interesting... about thirty feet deep or more in places? Who sez climbing has to take place above groud level
Spike/Adam
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downshift
Apr 18, 2002, 11:35 PM
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Good to know those trees aren't old growth now I feel less guilty. Definately the crevasses pose some interesting problems.
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c_plante
Apr 24, 2002, 9:43 PM
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I've heard (although haven't confirmed) that there is a really wicked deep chimney about 40 meters behind Twiss Rock proper. Some kid apparently fell down there in the 70's. Anyone know about that?
Otherwise Twiss Rock is a great bouldering area, to be honest I really love it. Although it's not as challenging as it was when I first started climbing, the fact is I haven't tried everything yet. Because of the proximity to the road I strongly recommend that anyone who goes there goes with at least 1 spotter and a crash pad. If you're planning on tossing rope over the edge in those crevasess in the back I suggest bringing some warmer clothes (ie not your shorts and tshirt) since the crevasses are really cool, at least from what I remember. And they're also fairly moist. It's actually a really nice area and it's worth hiking around that area if you're too tired to climb.
Hope this helps.
Christian
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downshift
Apr 25, 2002, 1:57 AM
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Also with the Crevasses be careful there really isn't a clean crash area. Even walking in the the crevass can be a bit shakey if you not paying attention. But, on the up side as C_plante said, it is really nice in there. Kinda pretty.
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spike_in_milton
Apr 25, 2002, 2:37 AM
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Probably going to check out the crevasses this weekend with the family. And I know from cold... I've been in similar places where there was still snow done there in late June . I'll keep an eye out for the hidden 40' chimney.
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spike_in_milton
Apr 28, 2002, 1:27 AM
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Okay, I've revised my opinion on the cedars topping the crevices at Twiss Rock. While I'm still certain they're not "old growth", they're still quite old, and cling somewhat teneciously to the rock. When I took a quick look before, there was still snow and ice about, and I didn't get into the crevices. Having been there now, I'd be reluctant to anchor a toprope on one, for fear of damaging the bark (too easily done with cedars).
There's gotta be another way though . The rock in the one crevice I took a picture of and uploaded is short (20 25 ft?), but looks a lot of fun. Definite toprope territory though. You can see the nasty stuff there is to land on...
cheers,
Adam
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downshift
Apr 28, 2002, 3:18 AM
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Those two trees at the top have been anchored off of plenty over the past 10-15 years. Probably the best thing to do is to wrap it with old carpet or towels before slinging it. That should protect the ol' tree.
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spike_in_milton
Apr 28, 2002, 3:51 AM
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Yah, I think we have the same two trees in mind . I had some similar thoughts, maybe using some 1/2" closed-cell foam under the strapping for the anchor.
BTW, I'vwe got a buddy coming into town for May from Halifax (mostly for the bouldering comp at Rockheads) that just about wet himself when I sent him a photo of the North Wall at Twiss. I think he's going to stroke-out when he reads how much wall is there . We should get together out there...
Spike/Adam
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downshift
Apr 28, 2002, 2:34 PM
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Sure tell me when and I should be able to be there.
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