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climbingurlie
May 29, 2004, 5:05 AM
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In reply to: How hard do you all of you climb? Do the benefits of slacklining only accrue to relatively novice climbers--or is there a carry over to really hard climbing and bouldering? I am curious about this. Curt
I am starting to see this as somewhat as a "diet theory". One diet may work for one person, but the same may not work for another. Slacklining could help one person, and do absolutly nothing for the next.
To each his own I suppose.
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coldclimb
May 29, 2004, 5:13 AM
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All right, I said I'd stay out, but Curt brings up a valid question. ;)
In reply to: How hard do you all of you climb? Do the benefits of slacklining only accrue to relatively novice climbers--or is there a carry over to really hard climbing and bouldering? I am curious about this. Curt
I onsight 11. Honestly, I have never tried a harder route, so I can't say with certainty what rating I can climb. Most of the outdoor boulders around here have no known confirmed rating, but I work V5 in the gym, and often onsight V4, if gym ratings can be trusted here.
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jt512
May 29, 2004, 5:22 AM
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In reply to: All right, I said I'd stay out, but Curt brings up a valid question. ;) In reply to: How hard do you all of you climb? Do the benefits of slacklining only accrue to relatively novice climbers--or is there a carry over to really hard climbing and bouldering? I am curious about this. Curt I onsight 11. Honestly, I have never tried a harder route, so I can't say with certainty what rating I can climb. Most of the outdoor boulders around here have no known confirmed rating, but I work V5 in the gym, and often onsight V4, if gym ratings can be trusted here.
Hang on. If you're going to post how hard you climb, do it right. Judging by your profile you don't "onsight 5.11." Traditionally, that means that you can walk up to just about any 5.11 route anywhere and have about a 75% chance of onsighting it. Judging by your profile, it would be more accurate to say that you have onsighted a 5.11b. It's important that we all speak the same language; otherwise, we won't be able to draw any conclusions from people's reported climbing level.
-Jay
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coldclimb
May 29, 2004, 5:38 AM
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Jay, I'm sick of arguing every tiny nuance of every little sentence in every post. I'm done. If, like Curt, you want to post a helpful argument in a manner that incites a helpful reply, I might feel like working through a good discussion to figure out where our differences lie. But you only ever want to argue violently, and I'm done. I won't ever post to this topic again, because even when I reply to a thoughtful question, I get attacked and questioned in a truly insulting manner. In fact, I'm not going to read this one again. I'm out.
Work on your people skills man. I'm positive you would take part in a hell of a lot less flame wars, quite frankly because they would not ever get started. :?
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corbin
May 29, 2004, 5:39 AM
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Heck dood, slacklining has helped me a bunch climbing. Cant quite tell you how but i guess it does. I did a V8 today, it didnt feel like a V8 but i pretty sure it is, dunno,(good day for me)Slacklining i guess took over my climbing. Just had alot of fun with it, and ended up pretty good. So, overall I would say that slacklining helped me climbing, dont start posting up some thing that is like 7 pages long saying that slackling dosnt help you climbing at all. Who cares? Just go out and have fun with it, instead of all this senseless bickering about how slacklining dosnent help you with climbing. whatever doood.
-corbin
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taorock
May 29, 2004, 5:39 AM
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Curt,
I’m glad you ventured into this thread as you’ll likely be interested in some research I unearthed from isslacklineapplicabletoclimbing.com
It seems that one Vincent P. Slacker PhD did some study in this area. His main problem was how to set up a scientifically valid test. For this he turned to the engineers at the MIT school of Experiment Tool Design (ETD). They devised a belt containing a gyroscope. With the gyro running, slacklining becomes very easy even for old bald guys and anal reductionists.
Twenty beginner climbers (group A) were randomly picked from the general population. In addition, twenty experienced 5.12 lead climbers (group B) were also randomly selected from the general climbing population. Each group had an equal distribution of male and female participants and each participant was paid equally for their time - given a choice between Prana clothing or REI coupons amounting to $1K each.
Each group was further split into two sub-groups. One sub-group was taught to slackline with gyro running while the other sub-group was taught without the gyro running. None of the participants or field personnel knew the status of the gyro operation. The experiment was conducted with five slackline sessions of one hour duration per week for eight weeks. During this time two days per week were reserved for climbing on well monitored and progressively graded climbs.
In nearly every case in both Group A and in Group B those who slacklined with the gyro turned on climbed a full grade behind those who slacklined without the operational gyro.
I hope this clears up any doubts as to the benefits of slacklining.
As a side note, those who learned to slackline without the assist of a gyro generally took their pay in Prana clothing.
T
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jt512
May 29, 2004, 5:49 AM
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In reply to: Jay, I'm sick of arguing every tiny nuance of every little sentence in every post. I'm done. If, like Curt, you want to post a helpful argument in a manner that incites a helpful reply, I might feel like working through a good discussion to figure out where our differences lie. But you only ever want to argue violently, and I'm done. I won't ever post to this topic again, because even when I reply to a thoughtful question, I get attacked and questioned in a truly insulting manner. In fact, I'm not going to read this one again. I'm out.
What is your problem, Son? Nobody attacked you. Learn to read.
If you want to be helpful, then post accurately. If everybody interprets the question of how hard they climb differently, and they don't explain how they are interpreting it, then the results won't make sense. If you stop reacting like a child, and start using your brain, you'll see this.
In reply to: Work on your people skills man.
Work on your reading comprehension and maturity.
In reply to: I'm positive you would take part in a hell of a lot less flame wars, quite frankly because they would not ever get started. :?
If you think I start flame wars, then you're just plain wrong. People don't like to hear the truth. They don't like to be told they're wrong, much less proven that they're wrong. Oh, well. Life's tough, ain't it.
-Jay
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curt
May 29, 2004, 5:53 AM
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In reply to: Twenty beginner climbers (group A) were randomly picked from the general population. In addition, twenty experienced 5.12 lead climbers (group B) were also randomly selected from the general climbing population. Each group had an equal distribution of male and female participants and each participant was paid equally for their time - given a choice between Prana clothing or REI coupons amounting to $1K each.
Well, it is fairly clear from the comment above that Dr. Slackers methodology was imperfect. He should have instead consulted Donald Trump and pitted the men against the women. Duh.
Curt
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climbingurlie
May 29, 2004, 5:58 AM
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In reply to: People don't like to hear the truth. They don't like to be told they're wrong, much less proven that they're wrong. -Jay
Do you really think that this thread is about being right or wrong? As you can see, we all have different opinions. This is something that can't be easily proven; much less proved at all on an online forum.
This is more of an opinion thing. Some people think that slacklining is relevant to climbing and it helps them, others think the complete opposite. It's gonna be different for different people. No one is right here, no on is wrong. Nothing is the truth, and nothing is a lie with this topic.
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jt512
May 29, 2004, 6:09 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: People don't like to hear the truth. They don't like to be told they're wrong, much less proven that they're wrong. -Jay Do you really think that this thread is about being right or wrong?
I think Coldclimb and I were discussing a broader issue than this thread.
In reply to: ...much less proved at all on an online forum.
I agree that it isn't going to be settled in this thread.
In reply to: This is more of an opinion thing.
It's not an opinion thing. An opinion thing is like: What color is prettier, green or blue? This is a factual thing, but we don't have enough information (at least I don't) to determine what the facts are.
In reply to: Some people think that slacklining is relevant to climbing and it helps them, others think the complete opposite. It's gonna be different for different people.
There are just three posibilities: slackling is worthless to everybody; slacklining is helpful to everybody; or slacklinging is helpful to some people, but not others. One of those statements is correct and the other two are incorrect, regardless of what peoples' opinions might be. Based on the quality of responses so far, the only certainty is that which statement is true will not be determined in this thread.
My best guess is this: Slacklining has minor benefits to climbing, which, as is true with cross-training in general, are likely to be greater in untrained beginners.
-Jay
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climbingurlie
May 29, 2004, 6:16 AM
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That's a good way of putting it; cross-training. I really never thought of slacklining of that before, but it makes sense.
Like you said, Jay, "slacklining has minor benefits to climbing". I'm sure you're right. If slacklining made earth-shattering results to one's climbing ability, every climber would be slacking. But, results are gradual and can help depending on the person's skill (in both climbing and slacklining) and their mentality.
'Course, I still think climbers like to slackline is because we're all somewhat crazy and walking those highlines could be put under the crazy category in life.
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coldclimb
May 29, 2004, 6:31 AM
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GAH! I can't stay away! :shock: :lol: :shock:
In reply to: My best guess is this: Slacklining has minor benefits to climbing, which, as is true with cross-training in general, are likely to be greater in untrained beginners. -Jay
Thanks Jay. This is exactly what I've been saying all along. I'm glad we can finally agree and just end this ten page argument. :)
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climbingurlie
May 29, 2004, 6:39 AM
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In reply to: GAH! I can't stay away! :shock: :lol: :shock:
:lol: :lol: :lol: It's addicting, isn't it? At least we made a breakthrough to some sort of "understanding/peace" while you were away. :)
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fenix83
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May 29, 2004, 7:16 AM
Post #139 of 167
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Has anyone considered that slacking, like most things we do to imporve our climbing, has an enormously different effect on different people? I have pretty good balance, so I might get less out of it than people who have a hard time in that department, for example. I know this is true in other areas, basically because if the area targeted by your training is already a strong suit, you will gain little if anything from it.
$.02
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slackdaddy
May 29, 2004, 7:54 AM
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JT512, Slacklining may not help your climbing, but I know a muscle bound guy who had terrible foot-work until he became a good slackliner. His foot-work became much better. If you think your marsial arts training has helped your climbing, slackline would help in similar ways.
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dc
May 29, 2004, 7:57 AM
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In reply to: An opinion thing is like: What color is prettier, green or blue? -Jay
well, i'm gonna have to disagree :lol:
orange is factually the best colour.. (yes, coloUr with a U)
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ipsofacto
May 30, 2004, 1:51 AM
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23456789
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areyoumydude
May 30, 2004, 2:03 AM
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In reply to: Ahhh, look at the obfuscating verbiage take wing! In reply to: You seemed to insist we hold our posts to a firm objective scientificly sound assertion of be valued useless. You made consessions in the form of assertions - which must also pass scientific rigor since you made it a inclusive assertion, even if they weren't all encompassing (as in some of x in y). The last time I was forced to witness such a seeming mixture of sense and evident nonsense, it was reading Lucky’s “Think” In reply to: … labors lost of Steinweg and Peterman that in the plains in the mountains by the seas by the rivers running water running fire the air is the same and then the earth namely the air and then the earth in the great cold the great dark the air and the earth abode of stones in the great cold alas alas in the year of their Lord six hundred and something the air the … Separated at birth? In reply to: Confirming that some of x is in y - is possible and thus must be supported properly. As in, to assert that for any of it to exist, there must be one instance in which it does. That or we could simply nullify any of your objections and the larger part of the population could be firm in their thinking that slacklining does at least make you feel as though you have improved your climbing skills in many people. In reply to: Otherwise it comes down to 3 or 4 sound assertions and zero negative statements thus elluding to an all inclusive statement that it does indeed help or give the appearance of helping. After reading this body of evidence, I can think of one or two “All-inclusive” statements that seem to have E-luded you, pokey
Hey it's jt512's butt buddy. Weclome to the slackline forum.
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ipsofacto
May 30, 2004, 2:13 AM
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23456789
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areyoumydude
May 30, 2004, 2:14 AM
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You are wecome. Love the pics.
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areyoumydude
May 30, 2004, 2:58 AM
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Wow, thanks man...now that brought a tear to my eye.
Peace bro,
Larry
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dbs
May 30, 2004, 7:09 PM
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slacklining is incomparably beneficial with finding your center of balance and honing in. it also develops proprioreceptive muscles in your legs and abdomen. all of these things are physical benefits and body-awareness skills that apply more or less directly to climbing, including bouldering. if you can find your center on a slackline, then you can much more easily find our center on rock.
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andy_reagan
May 30, 2004, 9:45 PM
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honest question...
Does rock climbing not already give you enough of a chance to hone your sense of balance? If you're struggling in the balance department just jump on some tricky technical problems. This serves the purpose of specificity.
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catbiter
May 31, 2004, 3:52 AM
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Wow, I posted this when I left for the weekend. I was just curious, but now I do know a lot more about it. I am going to have to try it. I didn't mean for this to be a spray fest, but thanks for all of the input.
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