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billcoe_
May 29, 2004, 8:36 PM
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time to buy one. R and I claims the HB Dynameea, Climbing says Camp Silver Star.
What are your thoughts?
B
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areyoumydude
May 29, 2004, 8:44 PM
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What cha want one dim fer?
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robban
May 29, 2004, 8:47 PM
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I bought myself a helmet recently. I tried out quite a few, and in the end convinced myself that I'd forget about looking good in it (if that is possible with ANY model), and also forget about weighing in price as a factor:
I will wear it for extended periods of time, doing quite a lot of strenous activitiy and quick movements in it: So the most important thing to me is that it is comfortable and fits snugly, in addition to being UIAA-approved.
For me, the Petzl Ecrin Roc fit the bill.
I can only advice you to go out there trying them out until you find one that fits _you_.
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petsfed
May 29, 2004, 8:53 PM
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Fit above all else. If you've got two or three models that all fit, you can start looking at differences like weight, price, and color. I like the BD half dome, but I have an old one, and I guess they've changed significantly since I go mine. I'd check out the Petzl Elios. Seems like the best one running at the moment.
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josca_bamia
May 29, 2004, 10:20 PM
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I have a Petzl Meteor. It is light and does not disturb my sight while climbing. It is also very adjustable and it "breathes" easily. As price goes, try to consider that last. Look for comfort and what feels best for you. Once you find what you like, try several sites and look in Ebay. I got mine for about $40 in Ebay.
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billcoe_
May 29, 2004, 10:22 PM
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In reply to: What cha want one dim fer?
Larry Dude: Hi guy!
I basically want one that will withstand the "beer bottle off of the top of Rocky Butte onto your Head" test. I don't think they make one that will pass the "computer monitor off the top" test yet, but the beer bottle test version would help with the video monitor on the head, or the shopping cart tossed off the top onto the head - eh?
I've gone 32 years rock climbing without one (used an old MSR for Mt climbing), probably just be another shiney ornament for the pack most of the time.
You never noticed Opdycke always wearing one most of the time? he rarely climbed at the Butte either.
bill
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climbfrog
May 29, 2004, 11:31 PM
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The one that fits your head the most comfy is the best one to get. If it's not comfy, then you won't wear it! There are a couple of really good ones that are really inexpensive. Look at the Petzl Elios, which I think is the lightest one out. And, look at the Edelrid Ultralight.
I just recently took a 15 metre whipper onto a ledge, which caused me to flip upsidedown and smack my head onto another ledge. I was wearing the Elios, I can't find anything wrong with it. I am retiring it though. One of the big climbing mags in the states did a helmet review. I think it may have been climbing. Check it out.
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areyoumydude
May 29, 2004, 11:56 PM
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Oh, Rocky Butte, now I understand. I've dodged a few bottles there myself. You seemed pretty good at dodging all the rocks I was sending down on you last year at Dreamland. I've got one for you real cheap, although it has a few bullet holes in it.
Peace, Larry
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jimdavis
May 30, 2004, 2:57 AM
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I have the HB dyneema and it's ok, but not well padded. After a while in the sun it can start to get a little annoying, depends on your haircut though.
Check out the Petzl Elios Class, you can even put a face shield on it for ice climbing, only $50 too.
Cheers,
Jim
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jerrygarcia
May 30, 2004, 5:09 AM
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Petzl Ecrin, no more need be said. Do a search on the forums about it.
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ozarkclimber
May 30, 2004, 7:10 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2003
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Petzl Ecrin Rock, hands down. may not be the coolest looking out of all of them (unless you're into alpinism...) but it gets the job done. adjustable for a winter hat, inflating ego, etc. and i've beat the crap out of that thing on approaches, etc. stands up in the long run.
you could always just get one of those beer hats, and keep em comin. that way, no matter what hit you on the head, it wouldn't hurt. not sure if there's a review on those in the gear forum...
ozarkclimber
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billcoe_
Jun 2, 2004, 4:57 AM
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In reply to: Oh, Rocky Butte, now I understand. I've dodged a few bottles there myself. You seemed pretty good at dodging all the rocks I was sending down on you last year at Dreamland. I've got one for you real cheap, although it has a few bullet holes in it. Peace, Larry
Rocks? Back east they refer to those as boulders! :lol: Nah, I'd feel more comfortable under you on a loose FA than out at RB sometimes with some of the crazy native sons of Portland running amok on top.
I did buy the Elios, turns out my mom had a REI refund of $16 which she contributed to the cause, and they were on sale too....so..... looked like Karma. Then Dean and I went out to Bulo point and also Rocky Butte and all I did was carry it! :!: Guess you're supposed to put it on top of the head.
Side story: so, I'm down in Yosemite last month and run into Jake who you use to work with (Long story, same campsite-great guy, real funny too). I thought Dreamland was supposed to be a secret? I think the cats out of that bag though and I suspect I'll be the last to hold my cat closed inside the bag! I was sworn to secrecy about Ozone too until my partner of 20 plus years at the time (who knew from someone else that I knew of this secret climbing area) finally invites me to climb there. I ask how he knew of it. He says it's in the new guidebook. Is there any rule on sharing info on the area I should be privy too. It's so far out there no one will want to hang there and be "local". Look at Petes, hardly anyone, cause you have to pro it yourself. Can i get a ruling here on this or should I call the grandmaster direct?
FYI, I learned of another "secret" Oregon site while down there I need to check out. If I can figure it out (directions were hazy) we should hit it if you get back this way.
So Larry Dude, what are you getting bullet holes in the head for? You learning about how all those gorgeous Utah babes have fathers? Hmmm, might be better you keep that helmet!
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tyify
Jun 2, 2004, 6:22 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
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We have the gear review section for a reason...go there for reviews on every helmet under the suN!
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peroxide
Jun 2, 2004, 10:35 AM
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I have an ORANGE petzl elios. VERY VERY lightweight. I find the neck strap a tad uncomfortable at first but soon forget about it once the climbing gets going.
If only my BELL bike helmet was appropriate for climbing...it is the most comfy helmet I have ever owned. Nothing feels bad on it.
Cheers,
Peroxide
ps I have done the beer bottle ballet at Rocky Butte as well. Also had a bra and other underwear thrown off into my climbing path as well. Gotta love rocky butte....
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