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jaedward
Jun 3, 2004, 3:35 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2004
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What do you think about sabretooth crampons for waterfall ice climbing?
I need a pair of crampons for waterfall ice climbing, i was considering these ones because of the cost, and also because in some websites there are good references about.
Cheers
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elvislegs
Jun 3, 2004, 3:41 PM
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The sabertooths are a good all-arounder. I have used them on quite a bit of waterfall ice, and on much alpine snow/ice. No complaints really.
There are better crampons for water-ice and there are worse.
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qpang
Jun 3, 2004, 3:41 PM
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I think those would be better for Alpine than waterfall ice, I would prefer something like the bionic personally.
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climbingbum
Jun 3, 2004, 3:45 PM
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I bought a pair strictly for alpine climbing, assuming they would not perform on steep ice. Many people have said the horizontal FP weren't as good on vertical ice, but after climbing with the sabertooths I tend to dissagree. I pretty much retired my vertical FP crampons and used the ST all season. Granted I don't climb hard ice (gr. 4), they worked fine for me...
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paulraphael
Jun 3, 2004, 4:29 PM
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might be a couple of years old, but still interesting. from Will Gadd's website (gravsports.com):
"I use Sabertooth crampons, which feature dual horizontal frontpoints and the best under-foot points I've used. I very rarely climb on monos anymore, they simply don't work very well for the chandeleried and very thin ice I commonly climb on. Don't knock these crampons until you try them; my partners often look at them like I'm about to break out a hemp rope next, but they are truly amazing rigs. They are the only crampons I've ever used that you can truly smear with, plus the points seem to work really well for snow-covered scrambling/alpinsim. I use one horizontal as a mono when that's called for. I also like the new Makos with the Lacerator kit, they're a huge improvement over the Switchblades. "
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brianinslc
Jun 3, 2004, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: What do you think about sabretooth crampons for waterfall ice climbing? I need a pair of crampons for waterfall ice climbing, i was considering these ones because of the cost, and also because in some websites there are good references about.
I think they work great. Went back to them this past season for waterfall ice, after a friend said to retry them. Stayed with them the rest of the season. No problemo's.
Check out what Will Gadd has to say about them in his ice climbing how-to book (even whilst climbing....apparently...):
http://mtncommunity.org/...403a694b0c72b843.jpg
Anyhoo, Will states in the book that he thinks horizontal front points are better for pure waterfall ice.
I think its what you get used to, but, after switching back to Sabertooths from a vertically oriented, stiff frame crampon (Mako's aka newer switchblades), I didn't feel the need for anything else the rest of the season.
Brian in SLC
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j_magnuson
Jun 3, 2004, 5:05 PM
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No problems with mine, but there are subtleties to each type. I find that in brittle conditions I may bring down a bit more ice than other climbers monopoints (probably some poor technique factoring in too). The point that Gadd makes in his book (worth a read by the way....as is Craig Luebben's book) is that the vertical nature of the monos tends to sheer out easier and I would agree with that. The Sabretooths are a little more forgiving when the heels get a bit too high, more common for a beginner.
I might look at the Bionics next time around, but if you're a beginner looking for one crampon to "do it all (nearly)", the sabretooths are a good place to start.
Josh
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paulraphael
Jun 3, 2004, 5:10 PM
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Interestingly, Will says in his book that he does like to use monos in fat, platic ice conditions. For him, these conditions are the exception (in canada and on grade 6 climbs) but in places like colorado they're more common.
However, it seems to me that anything will work well in those conditions, so it doesn't matter so much.
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paulraphael
Jun 3, 2004, 5:26 PM
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Interestingly, Will says in his book that he does like to use monos in fat, platic ice conditions. For him, these conditions are the exception (in canada and on grade 6 climbs) but in places like colorado they're more common.
However, it seems to me that anything will work well in those conditions, so it doesn't matter so much.
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freezerfrost
Jun 4, 2004, 4:52 PM
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Registered: Apr 19, 2002
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In reply to: What do you think about sabretooth crampons for waterfall ice climbing? |
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lambone
Jun 4, 2004, 6:28 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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Brian from SLC, that photo is hilarious!!!!!! :lol:
Yeah, they work great for Vert Ice, I've been stoked on them for years.
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