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headchop
Jun 15, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Yeah, I know; been done to death. My problem, however, is a little different from anything I turned up doing a search on the topic.
I tend to find full crimps very awkward and basically don't use them at all. My understanding is that most people, when starting, will tend to favour the full crimp over the half. I'm the opposite. As a result, I half-crimp everything. The standard mantra of only training open (or half) crimps is all well and good, in that it assumes that, when needed on a crimpy route/problem, you can just whip that thumb over and all is good. Not for me.
So I'm considering concentrating on working full crimps at the gym. If they're so bizarre for me that there's no way I can really use them now on an actual route, I figure I've got to get used to them somehow so that they can be added to my climbing repertoire and be available when needed - even though training full crimps seems to go against convential training wisom.
Just wondering if anybody has any thoughts on this they might want to share.
Thanks.
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badass
Jun 15, 2004, 3:19 PM
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I'm trying to understand which one is full and which is half. Either way think about this. If you are having trouble getting your thumb over your fingers it might be your thumb. Many young people that play videogames or other activities such as heavy writting can really favor your thumb and over time cause it to outgrow and overthrow the other fingers. If it is the other way around and you tend to openhand every hold it is because you might have what I like to call large hand syndrome. These people tend to be better on slopers and eventually you will be able to crimp sick holds open handed, it'll just take more time. I don't believe what people say about always trying to openhand holds because sometimes the hold just gets to sick and you need the leverage of the closehanded crimp.
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asandh
Jun 15, 2004, 3:26 PM
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:shock:
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headchop
Jun 15, 2004, 3:46 PM
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I should point out that I've been climbing for almost three years and that I can handle crimps where most others have to full crimp, even many of those who are better climbers than I. Still, there are lots of crimps out there that're way beyond me.
I guess what I'm really wondering is if I should try to get comfortable using a full crimp so that I can use it if I really need to - when I get to a really nasty crimper and the open-handed position just ain't cutting it. Or will I even be able to train myself to use it since I find it so awkward to begin with - maybe it's just something that I'll never be able to do.
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badass
Jun 15, 2004, 11:16 PM
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I've been climbing for just over 3 years and I love the full crimp. My thumb is definately my strongest finger. I couldn't imagine blowing out the tendon in my thumb. I do know sick climbers who could dyno to a mono due to their constant half crimp climbing. But then watch what happens when they try to clamp or pinch something. They usually can't
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overlord
Jun 16, 2004, 10:12 AM
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both types have its uses. some holds feel better when closed (like small positive ledges) some when open (like big round slopers).
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barefeetnochalk
Jun 16, 2004, 1:10 PM
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Open hand definately requires more strength and a closed crimp is definately very strong.
If you can crimp on it, you can climb on it.
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collegekid
Jun 16, 2004, 2:50 PM
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You should gradually introduce the closed crimp into your training. If it hurts, don't do it...but if not, then it will be worthwhile to learn how to do a full crimp. There's some holds *cough Santee cough* that simply can't be open-handed. You get noticeably more strength out of a full crimp over a half crimp, on small (under a half-pad in depth) holds. I think open-handing holds tends to get you pumped out faster as well (hence, good for training purposes, but bad technique on redpoint attempts).
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