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slablizard
Jul 9, 2004, 6:24 PM
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or there's some sport too? I would guess no, since I see all around 5.9 :?
Am I wrong? Never been there and I was curious about it.
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indamtnsbj
Jul 9, 2004, 6:26 PM
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There is about six places in every county in the USA called lover's leap. How about some more info on the locale you are talking about.
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slablizard
Jul 9, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Sorry, I thought it was obvious since under my nickname says " CALIFORNIA BAY AREA"
So Lovers Leap in NORTH CALIFORNIA :)
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g-funk
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Jul 9, 2004, 6:33 PM
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If you don't like trad, you're gonna have to free solo at Lover's Leap :shock:
Enjoy!!!
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dsafanda
Jul 9, 2004, 6:36 PM
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In reply to: If you don't like trad, you're gonna have to free solo at Lover's Leap
That's not true. There are a few very good sport routes at the Leap. However, it is definitely mostly trad and you would be missing out on the Leap's best climbing if you showed up with only draws. That said...
Check out these on Lower Buttess...
"Beer Can Direct" - 5.11
"A Boy and his Arete" - 5.11
"Strawbilly Tango" - 512.b
There's also "Labor of Love" - 5.10 on the East wall next to "the Line".
I think there are a few others scattered here and there.
There are also some clip ups at Phantom Spires.
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slablizard
Jul 9, 2004, 6:38 PM
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Did I say I don't like trad? :roll:
I asked if there's sport climbing too, so I guess the answer is not...am I right?
Why you guys get so touchy if one just dares to write the word "sport climbing" what is it? Ken Nichols spirit kind of thing?
geez.
In reply to: If you don't like trad, you're gonna have to free solo at Lover's Leap :shock: Enjoy!!! |
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killclimbz
Jul 9, 2004, 6:43 PM
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Definitely a trad climbing haven. A very good one at that. I would look elsewhere for sport climbing.
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caughtinside
Jul 9, 2004, 6:43 PM
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Yeah, there's some sport there, but it tends to be spread out around the cliffs.
I've never done any of them, since I've only gone there to trad and there's some good sport closer to home. 8^)
Some of the routes should be in Carvilles lake tahoe guide, or the new South lake supertopo.
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g-funk
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Jul 9, 2004, 6:44 PM
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Sorry dude, I didn't take offense or mean to offend at all. I spend most of my time outdoors sport climbing too. It's hard to portray any tone of voice in writing.
Anyway, there is some sport climbing over on the Lower Buttress, and if you're into it there is a little bouldering along the approach. Check it out, the Leap is a Northern California classic!
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slablizard
Jul 9, 2004, 6:52 PM
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Thanks! Exactly my point, I heard a lot about this place and I was looking for sport stuff since I don't have a trad rack.
NP, maybe I missunderstud about your tone dude.
I could not believe that in such a big place (L. Leap) there was not even a bolted route.
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glowering
Jul 9, 2004, 7:13 PM
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I'm not sure about the other climbs but Labor of Love is pretty run out for a sport climb. i.e. sport climbs are usually well protected. I guess it depends on your definition of sport.
Paolo I've got a rack and I love the leap.
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slablizard
Jul 9, 2004, 7:20 PM
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Damn...let's go then!
I'm not looking for grid bolted walls, just a wall where you can climb without a rack. if it's runout it's ok. I just don't like those X rated stuff ya know? I have family :-)
In reply to: I'm not sure about the other climbs but Labor of Love is pretty run out for a sport climb. i.e. sport climbs are usually well protected. I guess it depends on your definition of sport. Paolo I've got a rack and I love the leap. |
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missedyno
Jul 9, 2004, 8:19 PM
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crazylikeafawkes moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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glowering
Jul 9, 2004, 8:35 PM
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I haven't been on labor of love but it looks great. I saw guys on it while on the line. My brother said he'd lead it, I'll TR it.
From supertopo:
http://supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=loealabo
A splendid dike climbing odyssey… if you are tall. While most of the holds can be reached by anyone, the crux is extremely height dependent and could probably be rated like this: 5.9 if you are taller than 6’0”, 5.10c if you are 5’9”-5’11” and 5.11 if you are 5’8” or shorter. There is a bolt right at the crux, however, the other bolts, especially the last, are usually 5-10 feet below a hard move. While the few 15-foot runouts command your attention, the holds are big and positive.
Let's get up there for some trad. Hopefully we'll see you at Diablo sunday.
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glowering
Jul 9, 2004, 8:40 PM
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Powerlust is a bolted 5.11a near traveler buttress that looks great. Get the free corrugation corner topo at supertopo.com
Not much bolted stuff at the leap, but it's worth a trip just cause the climbing is so damn good.
Also great bouldering close to the parking lot.
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g-funk
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Jul 9, 2004, 10:08 PM
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If you're looking for some tough sport climbs in the area of Lover's Leap, check out Luther Rocks near Tahoe. Lots of good tough sport routes that are pretty much lead only. Approach is kind of a b#$ch, but that keeps the crowds away.
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drkayak
Jul 9, 2004, 10:18 PM
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In reply to: I'm not looking for grid bolted walls, just a wall where you can climb without a rack.
Yea, there are a lot of bolted climbs at the Leap. 90% of then are bold leads for the grade.. ie NOT sport bolted. You could easily get in a full day of leads without a rack... if you can climb 5.11+
I would start on Main Ledge
Warm up on Artic Breeze 10a
Nervana 11c
Power Lust 11a
Boot Hill 11a
All 4 are great climbs. There are more in the area but I do have my guide book with me to look them up.
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slablizard
Jul 9, 2004, 10:27 PM
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Cool! I'm looking forward to go there.
Hope to see you guys at Diablo sunday, but I doubt that if I make it it will be in the morning. Family got back from Yosemite one hour ago ( hey I have my new Yosemite cap) and wife already said "this weekend you keep the kids an I enjoy some peace".
But you never know, I'll try to tempt her into a little sunday morning climbing.
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