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baja_java
Jul 15, 2004, 11:16 PM
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after a lead, i usually rap down instead of lowering. but last time there, a partner insisted that the anchor biners are regularly replaced at Williamson, so we should always just lower down. true?
thanks
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climbsomething
Jul 15, 2004, 11:19 PM
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Generally, this is okay. What you DON'T want to do is toprope off the sport shuts. Gang TRing, a mucho common thing at Wmson, would make short work of those anchors.
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chanceboarder
Jul 15, 2004, 11:22 PM
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i'm not an expert or anything on it but as a fairly regular climber at williamson i've been told its generally ok to lower off of the anchor biners but not top rope off of them (use your own draws for that). personally i always rap off instead of lower. makes the biners last longer as well as my rope cuz its not running along the rock as i'm being lowered.
cheers,
jason
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dood
Jul 16, 2004, 12:17 AM
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In reply to: after a lead, i usually rap down instead of lowering. but last time there, a partner insisted that the anchor biners are regularly replaced at Williamson, so we should always just lower down. true? thanks
And how much do you contribute to the cost of the hardware?
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jt512
Jul 16, 2004, 1:59 AM
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In reply to: after a lead, i usually rap down instead of lowering. but last time there, a partner insisted that the anchor biners are regularly replaced at Williamson, so we should always just lower down. true? thanks
Generally, at Williamson the only person who should lower-off through the anchors is the last person in your party to climb the route. The first climber to lead the route should place draws on the anchors and lower through the draws. Subsequent climbers should toprope through the draws or, if leading, clip and lower through the draws, rather than the anchor hardware itself. It is acceptable for the final climber to lower through the anchors; he or she need not rappel.
-Jay
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tigerbythetail
Jul 16, 2004, 3:03 PM
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baja_java
Jul 16, 2004, 3:26 PM
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thanks, all. yes, got the TR & last-to-lower routines down pat. standard operating procedures. was wondering if anyone knew who replaces the the anchor biners at Willies and how often
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tigerbythetail
Jul 16, 2004, 3:50 PM
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baja_java
Jul 16, 2004, 4:09 PM
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to get the lowdown, and sure, to help too. haven't climbed at Willies as often as before. would be first time this season actually, but might end up out at the Needles this weekend. so, details or contact info?
nice beta for the big bear areas, by the way. been loving the spots up there
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tigerbythetail
Jul 16, 2004, 4:21 PM
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