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michaelmay513
Jul 16, 2004, 4:31 AM
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I bolted a route and gave it a rating of 5.12. A climber visiting the area noticed that the route was not in the guide and asked if I knew what it was. I told him that I put it up and rated it 5.12. He climbed the route and thought the rating should be V4/5.10. You have to stick clip the first bolt because the crux is right off the deck. Should I call the route V4/5.10 or just keep it at 5.12. I have another line that will have the same problem. Should I call it 5.12 or V4/5.10?
Thanks.
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bouldrinsoill
Jul 16, 2004, 4:35 AM
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I would say 5.12 for sure, V-grades are for bouldering, lets leave them there V4/5.10 is just confusing.
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boltdude
Jul 16, 2004, 4:36 AM
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Depends on the area, at Joshua Tree it'd be a 5.10 since the first 15 feet don't count toward the rating...
In my opinion, combination V/YDS ratings are definitely appropriate for some climbs, and I expect more people to use them in the future.
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korporal
Jul 16, 2004, 4:41 AM
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I have seen the V system used to rate the crux move of a climb. If you put the crux rating with the climb I belive that the climb is average the yosemite decimal grade and the V grade is for the hardest part only. Example: 5.10v3 The climb is 5.10 for most of the climb and the crux is equivlant to a v3 boulder problem.
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hipdos
Jul 16, 2004, 4:55 AM
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I think you will find that the standard practice is to rate the climb for overall difficulty (whether due to it being sustained or a hard crux or whatever) and then any V grade is given for the purpose of description only. So your climb is 5.12 with a V4 crux. Of course there are always local variations...like the system quoted for J-Tree, which seems a bit strange...
The thing is that there are thousands of climbs around the world that have a crux that is significantly harder than the rest of the route, but rarely do you hear any of them with the crux and the rest of the route rated separately. That is just complicating matters.
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roughster
Jul 16, 2004, 4:56 AM
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Its a 5.12 with a V4 crux. The fact that it is right off the ground means nothing.
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valeberga
Jul 16, 2004, 5:08 AM
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Dang, you freakin' ego-inflated boulderheads, keep your damn V-ratings to yourselves for christs sake! Punks! :evil:
nice troll by the way... :twisted:
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valeberga
Jul 16, 2004, 5:21 AM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :twisted:
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korporal
Jul 16, 2004, 5:31 AM
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The V in "grade V" is the roman numeral for five. From MFOTH:
In reply to: Rquires a day for the teechnical portion; the hardest pitch is usally no less than 5.7 (in the Yosemite Decimal System for rating rock climbs)."
Grade VI is full on aid and/or very difficult free climbing that takes many days. There are lesser grade but these are more or less the most common ones that are used in clmibing.
The V system is a rating system that is used to rate boulder problems as described here in our very own clmbing dictionary.
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valeberga
Jul 16, 2004, 5:34 AM
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In reply to: The V in "grade V" is the roman numeral for five. From MFOTH: In reply to: Rquires a day for the teechnical portion; the hardest pitch is usally no less than 5.7 (in the Yosemite Decimal System for rating rock climbs)." Grade VI is full on aid and/or very difficult free climbing that takes many days. There are lesser grade but these are more or less the most common ones that are used in clmibing. The V system is a rating system that is used to rate boulder problems as described here in our very own clmbing dictionary.
Dude, you're ruining this thread!
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overlord
Jul 16, 2004, 6:25 AM
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just keep it 5.12.
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andy_reagan
Jul 16, 2004, 2:03 PM
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just keep it V4.
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joneiche
Jul 16, 2004, 2:45 PM
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John Sherman, if you are out there, I am sorry that your creation has been basterdized to this degree.
P.S. John, thanks for the great trip to the desert!!
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tigerbythetail
Jul 16, 2004, 2:51 PM
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.0001
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korporal
Jul 16, 2004, 3:55 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The V in "grade V" is the roman numeral for five. From MFOTH: In reply to: Rquires a day for the teechnical portion; the hardest pitch is usally no less than 5.7 (in the Yosemite Decimal System for rating rock climbs)." Grade VI is full on aid and/or very difficult free climbing that takes many days. There are lesser grade but these are more or less the most common ones that are used in clmibing. The V system is a rating system that is used to rate boulder problems as described here in our very own clmbing dictionary. Dude, you're ruining this thread!
I was answering milk's question. Sure I will step out.
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valeberga
Jul 16, 2004, 4:23 PM
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no worries... :wink: :twisted:
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michaelmay513
Jul 17, 2004, 4:33 AM
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bump
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roughster
Jul 17, 2004, 4:45 AM
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Hey Mike,
I'll give you some experience that is relevant IMO. I bolted and climbed a route that basically was 5.8 climbing to a V4 boulder problem, with easier (5.10ish) moves to the anchors once past the crux.
My friend, who has been working up the grades, decided to work it for his 1st 12a. At first he would cruise to the crux and then get shut down. Couldn't even do it. Next few time out, he was able to eek out the moves, but that was it, no chance of linking into the easier stuff above. Eventually he got the crux wired, and sent it up.
He them moved onto a different 12a which is a long and steep, which is what you would often think of your typical "12a". Guess what? He was able to send it in fewer tries than it took him to send the "V4" 12a.
What's the lesson? V4 is the crux of a 12a. Once you can do the hardest move, generally you can do the rest of the route pretty quickly. Building endurance is pretty easy. Doing a bouldery low % crux-move is always hard and usally the barrier for anyone trying to break into a "certain" grade.
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climb_plastic
Jul 19, 2004, 8:46 PM
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I read that 3 times and I'm confused like this :?
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gambler
Aug 2, 2004, 3:23 PM
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tigerbythetail wrote:
In reply to: A 5.10 route with a 5.12 boulder start? Sounds like old school 11c to me.
amen
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dlintz
Aug 2, 2004, 3:33 PM
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In reply to: tigerbythetail wrote: In reply to: A 5.10 route with a 5.12 boulder start? Sounds like old school 11c to me. amen
For even older school drop the "c" and call it hard .11. :)
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valeberga
Aug 2, 2004, 3:58 PM
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11+?
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