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muslmutt
Jul 21, 2004, 8:56 PM
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I have been climbing trad for several years and have taken several falls. Generally my philsophy has been I don't want to fall if I can avoid it. Make no mistake when I have a bomber piece in I do not hesitate to make the needed move, in the right situation. I also avoid run outs when I can, in fact I like to sew 'em up. Lately I have been doing alot of sport climbing, which I never reall had the access to like I do now. Here is my question. When sport climbing how often do YOU fall while on lead? How long of a fall are YOU comfortable taking? Both of these questions apply to good situations( primo bolts and belayer ect...).
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elvislegs
Jul 21, 2004, 9:11 PM
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depending on the particular fall i will go for the ride as many as twenty times in a row. and i have fallen as far as about twenty feet on bolts.
working routes on lead gives me a little extra incentive to stick the moves. so basically, if the fall is clean i will go balls out and take the fall if i fail. if the fall is ugly i climb more conservatively.
hmmm. i wrote a lot of words, but i don't think i really said anything.
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picaco
Jul 21, 2004, 9:16 PM
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Registered: May 7, 2004
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I haven't fallen on trad yet, but as for sport, I don't like to fall (who does?), but I do occasionally while I'm trying to work out a sequence.
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climbhighmg
Jul 22, 2004, 12:23 PM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2003
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i have climbed mostly sport and i have taken a few falls.. couple of which were 20+ feet. a lot of it depends on if the fall is going to be clean and your belayer. after having lead many sport routes, i actually feel more comfortable leading a route and risking a big fall compared to toproping the climb. i think you just need to get a couple big falls under your belt on sport and then you'll realize it isn't all that bad. for me when i'm leading i can get more focused and find that i'll do better on the climb. going along with what others have said, you also test your skills and make sure you stick certain moves. the majority of the bolted climbes i have been on the bolts have been in good shape, which also helps.
i too think i just wrote a lot and might not have really said anything... but overall i have very comfortable leading sport at my level and taking a fall if it happens. i usually don't worry about it since i have taken falls. hope this helps....
when all else fails just let go and enjoy the ride...
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dan4183
Jul 22, 2004, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2004
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I try to fall as little as possible just for the sake of my rope's health, so i usually end up down climbing a lot if im trying to work out a sequence or something. However sometimes if you are really committing to something, a fall is unavoidable so it is important to be somewhat comfortable with it.
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too_far_gone
Jul 24, 2004, 1:49 AM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
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I fall just about everytime I go out. I am pretty comfortable with it now. Most of the routes here are hard. A couple 5.9's one or two 5.10's and everthing else is hard. So I really don't have a choice. I have taken some 20 footers, but know friends that have taken bigger. Falling on good bolts is not a big deal, its pretty common
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pbjosh
Jul 25, 2004, 6:15 AM
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I fall all the time. As long as you're aware of your situation and what you may hit and avoid getting flipped by the rope, falling on sport routes shouldn't be a big deal. Obviously you want to avoid falling on or into low angle terrain, hitting ledges, hitting the lips of roofs, etc, but it's not biggie. If it's all air anything up to about 30-40 feet is routine. More than that gets exciting.
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az_biner
Jul 25, 2004, 6:55 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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You have fallen as many as 20 times in a row? how big was the fall? On the same route? the same move? the same rope? just wondering....
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pbjosh
Jul 25, 2004, 7:08 AM
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I've taken the same 25' foot fall 10 times inside of 40 minutes on one route. Guess that says alot about my success on said route ;)
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helmut
Jul 29, 2004, 9:48 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
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I took a 25 foot fall once on a 30 foot sport climb, that was my first lead fall ever, and I haven't taken one since.
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elvislegs
Jul 29, 2004, 9:59 PM
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In reply to: You have fallen as many as 20 times in a row? how big was the fall? On the same route? the same move? the same rope? just wondering....
if this was directed at me... yes.
steep, thin, 11+ sport route (right at my limit). lots of rope out (low fall factor). eight to ten footers. finally got the sequencce and finished. i'm all about the tenacity. my poor, poor belayer.
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sonso45
Jul 29, 2004, 10:00 PM
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When I am looking at falling off a sport route, I fall the distance away from the last bolt. If I don't feel I'm gonna make it then I try to climb down if I don't feel comfortable taking the whipper. Otherwise, I climb til I make it or fall without knowing it will happen. I don't really worry about how many feet I fall unless it's really runout. M
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climboard
Jul 29, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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I usually take at least one fall just about every time I sport climb. I warmup on climbs below my level and then start getting on progressively harder climbs until I start falling.
If the bolts look good and the fall is clean go for it.
I've taken up to 30 footers on sport climbs comfortably.
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dgkula
Jul 29, 2004, 10:21 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2004
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Like others, for me sport is for pushing it and falling on a nice safe bolt and trad is for not falling (in general) unless the gear is bomber and the fall is clean and my head is way above my hips.
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tech_dog
Jul 29, 2004, 11:49 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2004
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I've only taken one long trad lead fall, about 25 feet. I've taken dozens of short falls.
I've taken a bazillion falls while top roped, and half a bazillion on sport routes.
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kevindubrau
Jul 30, 2004, 1:09 AM
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Registered: May 23, 2004
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I pretty much don't think twice about falling on bolts, if they're solid. Like others have said, 30 feet on an overhanging route is nothing out of the ordinary. If the fall is clean, I'm not about to hesitate or downclimb on a sport route.
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tahoe_rock_master
Jul 30, 2004, 2:53 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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Basically I will try to lead any sport route, no matter how hard(led my first 5.11b last weekend), as long as there is not huge runout or groundfall. Then I will stay well within my limits. But basically If I fall on sport so be it, I enjoy the ride.
matt
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