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jabtocrag
Aug 6, 2004, 6:50 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 476
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I'm heading out to Tahoe for some business and wanted to do some sport climbing. The problem is I only have one day to climb, so I'm looking for the best intermediate level sport crag to spend the day. Thanx for the beta.
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roughster
Aug 6, 2004, 6:54 PM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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If your looking for intermediate sport climbing, your best best is Big Chief. Get an early start though, cause it heats up in the afternoon due to its West facing aspect.
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padge
Aug 6, 2004, 8:32 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2004
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Big Chief has good well protected sport climbs, but if your in Tahoe for only one day you should really check out Donner Pass. The rock quality and the scenic nature of Donner far outweigh the lack of a ton of sport climbs. However there are a few good sport climbs, check out the Goldilocks wall, Short Subject, Neanderthal Dudes, Aerial. There is also alot of top rope cracks you could try.
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phylp
Aug 7, 2004, 3:55 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2001
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Padge,
I'm glad for you that you find Aeriel and Neanderthal Dudes to be "intermediate" sport climbs, but some people might call 5.11a-5.11d to be "hard".
Donner Summit is a gorgeous place but the problem with Goldilocks Wall, Star Wall, Space Wall, Roadcut etc. is they are East facing and this time of year that can be brutally hot. I was just up at the Ice Pirates area a few days ago and it did not go into shade until about 3:30 PM.
The side of Big Chief that overlooks rt 89 is in the shade until about 1 PM in many places. Big Chief has a lot of sport routes in the 5-9 to 5.11 range.
The problem with a newcomer to Big Chief is that the directions in the Carville guide are inaccurate now:
The new 267 bypass of Truckee that was built from I-80 comes in south of the Big Chief turnoff, so if you come from the 267 exit of I-80, you'll miss it. Go thru old downtown truckee instead.
The turnoff road is somewhat misleadingly named Ponderosa Palisades in the Carville guide. You'll know you are in the right place if you are turning at the 7-11 and the little movie theatre.
The parking area for Big Chief is really about 5.5 miles in on the dirt road, not 5.2 miles in. (There are a ton of logging roads out there. You must track your mileage if it's your first time in there.) It is very well-marked. You now park right after you turn in - you can no longer drive in the 1/2 mile to the Big Chief trails as you used to be able to do.
But do go up to Donner Summit - they view of the surrounding granit peaks and of Donner Lake is phenomenal!
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