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smithrock76
Aug 8, 2004, 3:42 AM
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A year and a half ago I purchased a Petzl Reverso, It is AWESOME! With an ATC, double rope raps are slow and jerky, 8's twist the #$&@ out of your rope and GriGri's are for the lazy. The Reverso feeds smooth on double and single rop rappels. It is smooth as silk to belay with, and feeds your tape marking the middle soooo much better than an thing else. If you have one or have used one let me know what you think.
8^) God I love this sport! 8^)
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sustainedclimber
Aug 8, 2004, 4:09 AM
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I bought an ATC when I first started climbing a few years ago as a staple to have. After trying someone elses Reverso about a month after that I bought it immediately and gave my ATC to my parents. I love it...I completely agree with smithrock76 on all opinions. Also, you can't rule out the reason that the reverso was created...belaying directly off the anchor on multipitch...I should also mention that I love that feature as well, and for those who haven't used it in that way...when belaying directly off the anchor it autolocks...so belaying from above isn't super stressful. All hail Petzl!
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coldclimb
Aug 8, 2004, 4:12 AM
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I agree wholeheartedly! :D I totally love my reverso. It beats my ATC hands down. The best feature is the auto-lock for belaying a second off the anchor. Way useful. I love it!
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rjavery10
Aug 8, 2004, 4:12 AM
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I've got the Reverso as well. It rules for multipitch and raps.
I still use my ATC from time to time on sport belays but this is more to get my money out of it than anything else.
Petzl hit one out of the park on the Reverso.
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vegastradguy
Aug 8, 2004, 4:28 AM
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while the reverso is a great tool (its a staple on my multipitch climbs), i avoid overusing it (like at the crags and on sport routes), because when it wears down over time, a sharp edge forms on one side of the device. doesnt really make much difference at the crags, though....its only a great tool on multipitch.
i've already had to retire one (got about 2 years of use out of it)....retired it with the locker it came with (wore nice grooves in that one!)....
just fyi for those who enjoy this awesome device.
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euroford
Aug 8, 2004, 5:32 AM
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for all those same reasons, i prefer the trango b52 8^)
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climbfrog
Aug 8, 2004, 10:50 AM
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The reverso is great for absiels and top-rope belaying. I do however, think it's really meant for use of thinner double ropes. On single lines, at least with 10.5's, it seems to like to stick when feeding rope out. I just retired mine, the blunt side has worn down a lot and has actually gotten a bit sharp. I now use the ATC-XP.
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dredsovrn
Aug 8, 2004, 11:57 AM
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I like the Reverso for some situations, but still find the standard ATC to be the smoothest device. I generally carry both.
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darth_gaydar
Aug 8, 2004, 1:25 PM
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rumour central:
BD will stop making regular ATC's and now only produces their beefed-up version to compete with the Reverso. :cry:
I, for one, never liked the Reverso. Gimmicky and appealing to newbies and people that choose to not think so much. There were already plenty of tools on the market to perform the same tasks, such as the Gi-Gi.
I await all you two-year veterans and your wisdom......
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mustclimb69
Aug 8, 2004, 2:20 PM
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Reverso is great!
:!: Major advantage is that you only have to carry one tool. :!:
Why use an ATC and a Gi-Gi when all you need is the reverso.
It does stick a little on thicker rope leads, but my 10mm and 9.7 are a dream on it
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dlintz
Aug 8, 2004, 2:22 PM
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In reply to: I, for one, never liked the Reverso. Gimmicky and appealing to newbies and people that choose to not think so much. There were already plenty of tools on the market to perform the same tasks, such as the Gi-Gi. I await all you two-year veterans and your wisdom......
Yep, that's why I bought mine. It was the shiniest device in the display cabinet.
d.
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j_ung
Aug 8, 2004, 2:26 PM
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In reply to: rumour central: BD will stop making regular ATC's and now only produces their beefed-up version to compete with the Reverso. :cry: I, for one, never liked the Reverso. Gimmicky and appealing to newbies and people that choose to not think so much. There were already plenty of tools on the market to perform the same tasks, such as the Gi-Gi. I await all you two-year veterans and your wisdom......
Me climbing 18-years. Me not like think, so me use Ree-vurs-o. It best because choice of colors. Me like blue best. It shiny. Only thing me not like about Ree-vurs-o is sound too much like hex. Klank klank.
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tnchief
Aug 8, 2004, 2:41 PM
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As a gear junkie of 10+ years, I very quickly bought the Reverso when it came out. Loved the locking feature when belaying a second off the anchor. After a couple of weeks using it, I pretty much permanently retired my other belay devices (Gri-Gri, ATC, belay 8). I kept my Gri-Gri for teaching beginning belayers, but I don't think I've used it myself since. I've not had a problem with the Reverso wearing out even after 2 years of climbing at least twice a week. However, in Tennessee, the rappels are not very long, so you don't really see the heat build-up.
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billcoe_
Aug 8, 2004, 3:00 PM
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ATC's work fine, so do reversos. I have a dmm bug for long routes as it's light and works great. I use a reverso for cragging. I guess I could belay 2 people at once more often, which you can do with any ATC anyway although not quite as effectivly, but what's the point unless you're trying to do 1/2 dome in a day with 3?
The reverso is majorly overhyped IMO.
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dfoerstel
Aug 8, 2004, 3:20 PM
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darth_gaydar wrote
In reply to: Gimmicky and appealing to newbies and people that choose to not think so much.
Hey, I resemble that remark. However, I think it's probably the best $20.00 investment that I've made for my "Newbie" trad rack. IMNO(in my newbie opinion) it's a versatile & valuable tool.
Dave
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bandidopeco
Aug 8, 2004, 3:22 PM
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All the devices have there Adv/dss, but one of the coolest ones i've seen you won't find at any store. If your in the Valley and you happen to see the Bird, ask him to show you his BIRD (my suggestion) the Bridwell Integrated Rope Device. he took a hunk of aluminium and with a drill and a file made this crazy looking thing that you can use in like 10 different ways. I'd love one, but with his luck and considering that other companies allready have large stakes in their own it's doubtfull that it'll show up at any store soon.
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maculated
Aug 8, 2004, 3:36 PM
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If you do enough belaying with fast climbers, you're gonna see that the Reverso isn't very strong when you need it to be in terms of fast feeding. I use the ATC (and it is so sad that I can't find them as easily anymore - mine got worn pretty badly) most of the time, Reverso comes out multipitch trad, only.
And what the hell is "those's?"
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valeberga
Aug 8, 2004, 4:48 PM
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I never use the Reverso for rapelling, it will wear out too fast and those flat metal edges can turn into razor blades. For rapping, I just bring along an old fig 8, which with those fat metal loops has lots and lots of rapping life.
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scrux
Aug 8, 2004, 5:09 PM
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I found that I love the reverso for lead belaying larger ropes and for off anchor belaying... but the cons are enough to make you want to bring along a devise that is made for smaller diameter ropes... I was simul raping off of a 10mm rope with the reverso, i spent the entireway fighting for my life... I am just happy this was a one pitch that I tried this on (90ft). Good thing we were not using my 9.5mm for this climb. :? I do not recommend using this devise for rapping off of climbs single rope on ropes less than 10.5mm, otherwise you could wake up in the hosp. or not at all. Also, I have found that over time, that the reverso will wear out one side of the carabiner and the other side not at all. Because of the way the rope runs while under weight while lowering/rappeling. It tends to eat sideways through the biner from left to right if right handed and right to left if left handed, because the devise tilts to the lock hand side while under weight causing uneven wear... The pros are great but the cons are life threatening. I have been using the Reverso as my main devise for right at a year... at about 3 days a week.
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brutusofwyde
Aug 8, 2004, 7:48 PM
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I think this thread is about belay and rappel devices, although it is difficult to tell, with the nearly unintelligible subject line.
I own a few belay devices including sticht plates, tubers, pyramids, two GriGris, two or three ATCs, a Trango Jaws, a Reverso, a plaquette, and a Reversino.
After using it a few times, I never carry the Reverso. It is a heavier, over-engineered, more expensive version of the Plaquette.
Device of choice for most climbs these days is a Jaws.
When I need autolocking for single or double ropes, I use a Plaquette.
Unfortunately, on modern really thin twin ropes (7.8 mm - 8 mm) the plaquette does not autolock. For those, I use a Reversino.
For walls, of course, I prefer the GriGri.
Brutus
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tim
Aug 8, 2004, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: I, for one, never liked the Reverso. Gimmicky and appealing to newbies and people that choose to not think so much. There were already plenty of tools on the market to perform the same tasks, such as the Gi-Gi. I await all you two-year veterans and your wisdom......
How about 10 years and not real thrilled with the idea of diddling around at the anchor when I could be stacking the rope, re-racking, or scanning the topo using my non-brake hand. Ever wonder why so many European alpinists seem to use a Munter hitch to belay the second? Hint: not because they're n00bs.
The Gi-Gi is a sticht-plate style device. People who prefer a tuber for lead belaying are far better served by a Reverso, or B-52, or similar. I'm surprised that someone who laments the passing of the original ATC would suggest that a Gi-Gi is comparable to a Reverso -- if that's the case, why aren't you reaching for your Sticht plate instead?
Personally I like my B-52; it is lighter, more versatile, and feeds rope better than my Reverso did. And I'm not going to carry a fucking Gi-Gi when a Munter or a reverso-type device works as well or better. (Of said type of devices, the B52 works best for me personally, as it behaves like an ATC when necessary, and an autoblock on ropes as skinny as 7.5mm; I paid $17 for it, which is comparable to an ATC, with added utility. I only bought it because the Reverso wouldn't autoblock with my twins, but now I wish I had not purchased the Reverso; it seems heavy, clunky, and limiting compared to the B52).
Stack up 10 or 20 or 30 pitches on a route, and the time you spend belaying the second off your belay donut can really add up (as opposed to simply taking in the slack through an autoblock-type device). Plus, belaying off the anchor through an autoblock frees up your waist to more easily stack the rope (I invariably clove into the power point, so lap coiling is trivial), reducing the probability that snags will slow you down.
I recognize that there are plenty of people who prefer a sticht-plate style device, and that's a matter of personal preference. But overlooking the efficiency advantages of belaying off the anchor, or the obvious differences between a Gi-Gi and a Reverso (links primarily added for pictorial purposes), demonstrates very little insight.
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musicman
Aug 8, 2004, 9:31 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: If you do enough belaying with fast climbers, you're gonna see that the Reverso isn't very strong when you need it to be in terms of fast feeding. Get a B52.
i've looked at B52's and they look great, probabaly will get one sooner or later.
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euroford
Aug 8, 2004, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: If you do enough belaying with fast climbers, you're gonna see that the Reverso isn't very strong when you need it to be in terms of fast feeding. Get a B52. i've looked at B52's and they look great, probabaly will get one sooner or later.
get one. i had one for a long time before i actually tried it and started using. now, i'm freekin sold on this little gadget.
my b52 thread
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sir_chalkalot
Aug 9, 2004, 12:51 AM
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In reply to: I found that I love the reverso for lead belaying larger ropes and for off anchor belaying... but the cons are enough to make you want to bring along a devise that is made for smaller diameter ropes... I was simul raping off of a 10mm rope with the reverso, i spent the entireway fighting for my life... I am just happy this was a one pitch that I tried this on (90ft). Good thing we were not using my 9.5mm for this climb. :? I do not recommend using this devise for rapping off of climbs single rope on ropes less than 10.5mm, otherwise you could wake up in the hosp. or not at all.
Did you try increasing the friction as shown in diagram #6 in the Reverso user guide?
George.
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