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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 6:34 PM
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Please don't practice piton craft at Beacon Rock. A lot of the old aid lines have the potential of going free and they don't need anymore pin scars.
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 6:42 PM
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Take it up with Olsen.
Which aid lines have been freed, at what grade and at what frequency are they being done?
coylec
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 6:43 PM
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coylec moved this thread from Aid Climbing to Regional Discussions.
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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 6:58 PM
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In reply to: Take it up with Olsen. coylec
That guy doesn't aid climb out there.
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:03 PM
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And you do?
Besides, the FA told me it was cool :D .
coylec
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:05 PM
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When did Iron Maiden go free (5.11 A4)? It's a seam on a blank face. You're flying on blades, babies and pro to 3/4.
Some routes are free climbs. Some routes are aid climbs. What's your problem with aid?
coylec
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theturtle
Aug 8, 2004, 7:06 PM
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In reply to: Take it up with Olsen. Which aid lines have been freed, at what grade and at what frequency are they being done? coylec
Tim Olsen is clueless, and knows nothing of the climbing at Beacon.
It doesn't matter what frequencey the routes are being done you posuer, It matters that you don't ruin the climbs for people who actually can climb.
If you want to bang pins somewhere for practice, go where there is AID climbing. Don't ruin the only good free climbing in the Portland area, just so you can pose like you know how to aid climb.
Sheesh- you'd think it was 1974. Haven't any of you kids heard of "Clean Climbing" or "Natural Protection"?
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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Not if I can help it. And I don't bang pins.....do you?
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:08 PM
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I've done several aid lines at Beacon. I haven't pounded a single pin (edit: at Beacon).
You act like you own the rock. You don't.
coylec
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:09 PM
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If you're refering to my post at cc.com, I've found places to PRACTICE nailing and heading - complete chosspiles with no redeeming value, even for bouldering. It's not at Beacon, rest your little heart.
coylec
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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 7:12 PM
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In reply to: Some routes are free climbs. Some routes are aid climbs. What's your problem with aid? coylec
I don't have a problem with aid climbing. I've done a few big walls myself.
Beacon Rock is not a big wall.
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Some routes are free climbs. Some routes are aid climbs. What's your problem with aid? coylec I don't have a problem with aid climbing. I've done a few big walls myself. Beacon Rock is not a big wall.
Really? I've only gone up one, but I'm excited about next summer.
Never said Beacon was a big wall -- that's why I don't bring my portaledge or haul bags. But, it does feature some of the best aid climbing in the portland area, which is why I go.
coylec
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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: I've found places to PRACTICE nailing and heading - complete chosspiles with no redeeming value, even for bouldering. It's not at Beacon, rest your little heart. coylec
So you agree with me. Killer.
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:18 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I've found places to PRACTICE nailing and heading - complete chosspiles with no redeeming value, even for bouldering. It's not at Beacon, rest your little heart. coylec So you agree with me. Killer.
Probably not. I'm looking at doing Iron Maiden later this summer. If I'm up there and it won't go clean, I won't think twice about using the hammer. Trust me, I want it to go clean ... I hate using my hammer. But sometimes its necessary. I'll rather climb C5 than pound pins to make it A1, but I'd rather pound a pin than go home.
coylec
edit: ps - you practice with pins and heads so that when you are forced to make a placement like that you can do it right the first time with minimal damage to the rock. and when you clean it, you do so in a fashion that encourages the creation of clean placements.
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:21 PM
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What brought this post on, if I can ask?
coylec
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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 7:26 PM
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In reply to: You act like you own the rock. You don't. coylec
People that pound pins are the ones acting like they own the rock. I want to preserve it for future generations. I love Beacon. It is where I learned to climb. I have logged over 100,000 feet of climbing there so I think I can have an opinion on it.
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coylec
Aug 8, 2004, 7:33 PM
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Never said you can't have an opinion.
At this juncture, I think we have irreconcilable differences. If it makes you feel any better, I don't take pins lightly.
coylec
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areyoumydude
Aug 8, 2004, 7:36 PM
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In reply to: Never said you can't have an opinion. At this juncture, I think we have irreconcilable differences. If it makes you feel any better, I don't take pins lightly. coylec
Good. Pass it on. :)
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markd
Aug 12, 2004, 1:36 AM
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In reply to: Which aid lines have been freed, at what grade and at what frequency are they being done? coylec
There is more but you get the point.
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markd
Aug 12, 2004, 1:37 AM
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In reply to: Which aid lines have been freed, at what grade and at what frequency are they being done? coylec
There is more but you get the point.
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meaghanw
Aug 22, 2004, 8:00 AM
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coylec. maybe a refresher on the 'principles' of your very own website you tag onto every post is in due. Leave No Trace, a center for outdoor ethics states under the section Leave What You Find: "Leave rocks, plants, and other natural objects as you find them". Why take away the possibilities of future climbing so you can "justify your existance" by manipulating what took nature thousands of years to create? I like (to free climb and clean aid) beacon just the way it is.
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billcoe_
Aug 24, 2004, 6:55 PM
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Hi guys:
Seems like a lot of yelling for no reason IMO.
Larry, just so you know, Chris had asked Jim about it and Jim said (and having lived with Jim you know Jim well enough to know this is a Jim O truth). Jim said nail away. In fact, for Jim, the place has always been about the freedom to just show up and nail up and bivi on the rock anytime anywhere. Sleeping is in fact allowed on the rock because of Jim lobbying the officials.
-BUT-
With as few of people as go out there and as few of those that nail, I don't think you have to be too concerned that some of the fine Beacon lines will get blown out. This issue did come up on CC.com, and some of the solid freeclimbers like Mark weighed in with an anti-bolting opinion which was respected as far as I know.
-AND-
I haven't met Chris yet, but I don't think you have to worry about over nailing at Beacon by him. It was he who showed up on CC and very respectfully started the thread by asking the question if nailing was OK out there to begin with.
Chris: may I suggest you re-discuss this with Jim and see if he will suggest an alternative, better, location for nailing?
I think you guys would like each other if you met.
(turtle, no need to call someone a poser just because they want to practice some nailing)
Regards all:
Bill
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billcoe_
Aug 24, 2004, 7:03 PM
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In reply to: If you're refering to my post at cc.com, I've found places to PRACTICE nailing and heading - complete chosspiles with no redeeming value, even for bouldering. It's not at Beacon, rest your little heart. coylec
Chosspiles? :!: No redeeming values? :!: Was this something I shared with you? If so, I might be hurt! :lol:
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markd
Aug 24, 2004, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: Mark weighed in with an anti-bolting opinion which was respected as far as I know.
i'm not opposed to "bolting"...............just adding all bolt protected sport routes.
what i've been voicing my opinion on is the use of pins. i'm very opposed(but who am i) to pins being placed and then removed. i have spoken with coylec a few times through pm's and told him my concern. he seems to agree and that seems to be the end of it.
I would hardly call ozone an area with no redeeming value though.....................that place has potential for some good routes.
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billcoe_
Aug 25, 2004, 4:38 AM
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Dohh, yes, I meant to say "pins", not "bolts". Sorry.
Dohhh.
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