|
|
|
|
climbguy
Aug 20, 2004, 6:13 AM
Post #1 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2004
Posts: 42
|
For me, it depends on whether I'm bouldering indoors vs. outdoors.
Indoors, I'm not that fearful because I know that it's a controlled environment (e.g., for the most part, the holds won't break off and that I visibly know how to hit the plastic). Plus, the ground that I would land on in the event I fall is level and the floor is cushioned (with or without pads). Knowing this, I can take more risks and go for holds/reaches I may normally not try to hit outdoors.
Outdoors it's riskier just because there's alot more unpredictable factors (like the possibility of the rock breaking off on me). That doesn't bother me as much as the terrain I would land on in the event I came off. It's usually rocky and not necessarily flat and level. Even with stacking crash pads and having spotters, the higher up I climb, the more fearful it is for me. Now here's where fear actually has a benefit for me. Knowing that I don't want to come off because of the terrain below, I actually concentrate harder and focus. This, plus my extra adrenalin flowing (probably due to alittle fear), allows me to finish problems that I may normally not finish indoors. So in this regards, fear drives me to completion 8^) .
So how does fear impact your climbing?
|
|
|
|
|
paganmonkeyboy
Aug 20, 2004, 6:16 AM
Post #2 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663
|
fear doesn't drive
fear rides shotgun...
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Aug 20, 2004, 6:52 AM
Post #3 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
In reply to: For me, it depends on whether I'm bouldering indoors vs. outdoors. So how does fear impact your climbing?
...for me, bouldering, fear and indoors can't be in the same sentence...
...try 150m off the deck, it's -15C, spindrift cascading all around, your last ice screw is 4m below you on a vertical column of ice, and all you keep bashing off is damn dinner plates of ice...
....sorry, I know this is the bouldering forum but fear just doesn't enter my mind when I'm bouldering....
...but you're right about this:
In reply to: So in this regards, fear drives me to completion |
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Aug 20, 2004, 8:12 AM
Post #4 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
I can't really think of any times I've felt fear while bouldering. Caution yes, but not fear. Caution drives me to not push myself beyond my own limits, and therefore not fall thirty feet into holes between massive rain-soaked boulders. I know where my limits are, and caution keeps me in one piece. As far as fear on well established boulder problems with good landings and pads, I don't have any worries at all about pushing myself, and I feel no fear. Bouldering for the most part is not something to be afraid of.
Fear has only affected me on the third pitch of a certain trad climb, where it told me to bail after fifty feet of lichen coated, inhospitable, dirt-filled crack just above a slab landing by lowering/downclimbing on my third piece of pro, a nut that was less than bomber. Even highballing in the rain above certain horrible injury didn't come close to that. At the time, the only thing fear told me to do was get off that wall, but now that the fear has worn off, that climb tops the list of projects for me.
|
|
|
|
|
mattmax45
Aug 20, 2004, 8:16 AM
Post #5 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 183
|
When your trying a prob thats over a rock fin blade that if hit will instantly break your lower back and possibly paralize you, you tend to think about this. However Ice is very dangerous compared to normal bouldering, any one would agree, for danger and fear Ice is king, but the doesn't mean that you can escape fear by bouldering.
In reply to: In reply to: For me, it depends on whether I'm bouldering indoors vs. outdoors. So how does fear impact your climbing? ...for me, bouldering, fear and indoors can't be in the same sentence... ...try 150m off the deck, it's -15C, spindrift cascading all around, your last ice screw is 4m below you on a vertical column of ice, and all you keep bashing off is damn dinner plates of ice... ....sorry, I know this is the bouldering forum but fear just doesn't enter my mind when I'm bouldering.... ...but you're right about this: In reply to: So in this regards, fear drives me to completion |
|
|
|
|
mattmax45
Aug 20, 2004, 8:22 AM
Post #6 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 183
|
I believe it was Bruce Lee who once said, "Fear is a good thing, it keeps you sharp, on edge, pumped not lax."
Its like the other forum "limits" when I climb at my peak I to do better than in the medium or easier grade, "difficulty and intensity make me concentrate harder", know what I mean.
|
|
|
|
|
rockfax
Aug 20, 2004, 12:02 PM
Post #7 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 26, 2001
Posts: 652
|
In reply to: In reply to: ...try 150m off the deck, it's -15C, spindrift cascading all around, your last ice screw is 4m below you on a vertical column of ice, and all you keep bashing off is damn dinner plates of ice...
I agree (the Black Dike on Cannon....aaaarggghhh), but also bouldering can be quite frightening, depends how far you want to take it.
Try this one.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=14696
Mick
|
|
|
|
|
jcshaggy
Aug 20, 2004, 12:15 PM
Post #8 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 340
|
Fear makes me clip quicker!
|
|
|
|
|
crag
Aug 20, 2004, 12:28 PM
Post #9 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 623
|
The only thing fear can drive me to is backwards, in that if Mr Fear becomes all to consuming then I just back-off. Until this happens, if it does, he’s just along for the ride. Sometimes he enjoys the ride and sometimes he’s a pain in the arse backseat driver.
Whether I’m climbing rock or ice fear can be shoved back into the trunk with the rest of the luggage with one simple move. A solid ice tool placement can rev-up my mojo and send Mr. Fear back where he belongs. Several dinner plate moves or a couple of scratch-n-sniffs and Mr Fear show’s up with a schist eating grin on his face.
If I’m able to view myself from an outward position, I get this sense that I’m watching myself, and can see, can feel myself being calm the Mr Fear loses. Even if I’m pulling through several sequences of painful finger locks with manky gear below my feet, just knowing that I’m doing “IT” keeps Mr. Fear at bay.
Of course soon as a rock breaks, a bee stings me, a pigeon or bat comes flying out of a crack or off a ledge all this surreal mumbo-jumbo crap goes out the window. All that is left then is to either give up or keep gnawing away at it until its over.
|
|
|
|
|
mattmax45
Aug 20, 2004, 3:35 PM
Post #10 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 183
|
You said it Climbguy, no sh#t... courts adjourned.
|
|
|
|
|
fallenfreesoloist
Aug 20, 2004, 4:49 PM
Post #11 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2004
Posts: 48
|
if a fall = broken bone/sprain i only do it if i am very comfortable with the situation.
if the fall is good i try it no matter wat as long as its fun.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 20, 2004, 4:53 PM
Post #12 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Like a deranged cowboy behind a herd of cats.
Why do you ask?
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 20, 2004, 4:55 PM
Post #13 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
In reply to: ....sorry, I know this is the bouldering forum but fear just doesn't enter my mind when I'm bouldering....
Hmmm, perhaps you're doing it wrong?
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 20, 2004, 4:57 PM
Post #14 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
In reply to: Bouldering for the most part is not something to be afraid of.
Either
A: We practice two different things but call it the same thing (bouldering)
or
B: You haven't been hurt yet bouldering.
Or BOTH?
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
mattmax45
Aug 22, 2004, 3:31 PM
Post #15 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 183
|
In reply to: In reply to: Bouldering for the most part is not something to be afraid of. Either A: We practice two different things but call it the same thing (bouldering) or B: You haven't been hurt yet bouldering. Or BOTH? DMT
I'm with ya bro...
|
|
|
|
|
nicebooty
Aug 22, 2004, 3:53 PM
Post #16 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 100
|
the problem is, ou people think to much. just suck it up and climb. or go play chess
|
|
|
|
|
sevrdhed
Aug 22, 2004, 5:26 PM
Post #17 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 5, 2004
Posts: 923
|
Fear drove me to buy a Mondo, so that I wouldn't be afraid when I was climbing alone. It definitely makes me feel more comfortable. As for when I'm actually climbing, I know that usually I can bail mid-real climb, and so I'm pretty relaxed there, and I know my pad is nice and huge, so I'm pretty relaxed about falling mid-climb, however, you get me on the slightest of mantles and for some reason I get real nervous. Mantles scare me. However, when I'm up high on a sketchy mantle and I start getting nervous, I find I climb a little bit harder.
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
moabdirtgirl
Aug 22, 2004, 5:40 PM
Post #18 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 29
|
I'm an EMT in Moab and I've seen some pretty messed up injuries resulting from minor falls. Because of that I take more care when I boulder. Fear has made my overall prgress slower because I'm very conservative on the rock. I'm always thinking of the worst case senario, which makes me focus more on my technique.
|
|
|
|
|
climber4life
Aug 30, 2004, 6:34 PM
Post #19 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 9, 2004
Posts: 156
|
A spotter and/or crashmat can kill your fear.
|
|
|
|
|
mother_sheep
Aug 30, 2004, 7:06 PM
Post #20 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 3984
|
Fear has paralized me before. It happened this weekend. I was soloing a pitch on this loooooong climb to save some time. I get about 30' up and the holds faded from site. It went from 5.0 to a 5.harder slab (I can't give it a grade). We thought it was all 5.0/5.2. It may have been just a few moves of the harder stuff but I was gripped. I couldn't move. The longer I stayed in that position, the more I felt like my feet were going to send me flying off the mountain. First I was scared. Then I became a little upset. Then my fear turned to anger, which oddly motivated me to push through. I was in a bit of a suck it up or die situation. So my fear was rational. So I worked through it.
Sometimes I know when my fears are irrational and these are the worst. For example, leading a 10something sport route can scare the crap out of me. But why? I'm above the 2d bolt, the falls are really not that bad. Being scared still paralizes me. What makes this type of fear worse for me is that I know that I'm in a situation where I can bail so it's easier for me to give up because I'm scared. It may sound extreme but I think in climbing I need to train myself to treat those irrational fears as do or die fears so i won't give up. More often than not, I'll pull through but I waste too much time thinking about how easy it would be to quit.
Sometimes fear adds to the adventure and also increases the sense of accomplishment once you've reached your goal in spite of your fears.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Aug 30, 2004, 11:05 PM
Post #21 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: the problem is, ou people think to much. just suck it up and climb. or go play chess
Think too much? well no one will ever accuse you of doing that...
But seriously fear keeps you alive, as long as its rational its a good thing. Fear helps you evaluate the risk and decide if its worth it.
And yes i have been afraid while bouldering, anyone every heard of the "Big Guy" at the swamp, LCC. or faced a V7 dyno 20 feet above a talus slope? Now thats fear.
|
|
|
|
|
mattmax45
Aug 31, 2004, 3:49 AM
Post #22 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 183
|
If I may add to this topic,
there are differences in the relm of fear. Example: I was on a highball and nearly at the top when I got into a tricky move and got a bad feeling, so I backed down, not because I'm a coward, but because I listen to my intuition, and didn't break my ankles. On the flip side to this, I was on a problem I really wanted to get, more than the other previously mentioned. The climb has a committing throw at the top and was considerably harder, scarier with a sh-- landing that surely would have sent me to the abyss by ambulance. With shear stubborness I said f--k it, and went for it, I used my best judgement, I dont always recommend being this stubborn, but that in it self pushed me really hard, through bad pain, fear, doubt, being stubborn has pushed me more than fear has helped me. Not for everyone. However it might be more effective than the use of fear, that is If you want it bad enough to go for it.
My .02 cents , Later Matt... :D
|
|
|
|
|
eyeclimb
Sep 28, 2004, 5:15 PM
Post #23 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 17, 2004
Posts: 63
|
It varies for me; sometimes it'll make me climb harder and other times, it will make me want to throw up. I agree with mother sheep who a few posts up said that your sense of accomplishment increases when you're freaked out and you finish a problem. I can definitely relate to that. Jumping down when I'm finished with a bouldering problem makes me nervous sometimes because I have knee problems and my left knee cap can dislocate so I try to be careful and down-climb when I can. I've been pretty freaked out before, but never paralyzed with fear.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Sep 28, 2004, 5:28 PM
Post #24 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
In reply to: I agree with mother sheep who a few posts up said that your sense of accomplishment increases when you're freaked out and you finish a problem. I can definitely relate to that.
Sure. I can too. Just as often I berate myself for cranking through on a problem when I am freaked out. Comes down to 'why?'
If I pushed through for the 'right' reasons, cool. Something to be proud of.
If I pushed through for the wrong reasons? I feel like a putz even though I may have made it.
Say you're totally freaked out. You're looking down at the ground, thinking things like "I'll land THERE" or "THAT rock is SHARP!" You're no longer contemplating the next move, you're thinking about whether to try and reverse that last move prior to jumping.
And then you see her... the cute climbing chick bouncing up the trail. Suddenly, with renewed vigor and new found courage, you send that problem even though your knees are knocking and adrenaline is flushing through your blood stream like an American Standard toilet. You press over the top, turn in victory and start to raise your arms.
And then you notice the cute little climber chick walked right on by without a glance. All you see is her nicely shaped butt as she turns a distant corner.
Damn! Did you just do THAT? For THAT?
When I do something for the wrong reasons? If I come to eventually realize it, I usually feel like a putz. But maybe that's just me. I am a cowboy in charge of a herd of cats (my emotions).
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
soulwithoutfear
Sep 30, 2004, 1:37 PM
Post #25 of 37
(4161 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 50
|
Ive fallin from rocks, trees, buildings, and lots of other high things before, many times almost breaking my back or my neck. Fear doesnt hit me when Im bouldering or climbing. Something close to fear does hit me though; thrill. It feels just like fear but better. I know im safe on the rock because I know im not going to fall unless I let myself fall. I stay calm and absorb the the kick ass feeling of climbing a huge rock in the middle of the woods with nothing but a 10 mm rope ensuring your life. Thrill gets my adrenaline pumping and makes it so I dont need fear. I used to be afraid of heights, deep dark water, and darkness(pretty crazy in my opinion). Now i only have one fear, but im not telling you or changing my username. Climb on.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
