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climb_plastic
Aug 19, 2004, 10:58 PM
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In reply to: And, one of the largest sections in the book is on setting up an anchor, which is the direct answer to your question. Redundancy is key to a good anchor..
But he's not setting up an anchor. He wants to get to the top and use the two fixed anchors to get down by either rappeling or a being lowered.
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chads93gt
Aug 19, 2004, 11:11 PM
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yeah it seems some of this is off topic. but yeah. ill buy a book and have an experienced climber either show me, or ill watch them, and ask them questions. And if they cant answer a simple question to someone trying to learn they are an asshole anyway. Ive never met a guy who cant take a few minutes while resting to answer a question. Hell even when I was drag racing at the track back int he day, other car enthusiasts were more than happy to answer questions. but anyway. ill read, and watch a pro :) or pay for a class at the gym, which i hate to do, becasue i hate gyms.
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climb_plastic
Aug 19, 2004, 11:40 PM
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Doesn't matter if you hate the gym because this is something they won't show you in there. If you pay for a class in a gym they'll take you outdoors to do something like this.
It's not that simple and I think most people will definitely have a problem answering a question this dangerous in a "few minutes while resting"...it's not just because he's being an asshole...although if he's a climber there is a good chance that he is one.
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kman
Aug 20, 2004, 12:18 AM
Post #29 of 48
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JUSTDYNO SAID:
In reply to: All you have to do to get down the safe and curteous way is clip two of your draws into the chains or hangers , making sure the gates are opposing (unless thiers a feature in the way that would make it unsafe) clip a bite of the rope into your harness (i use a figure eight) untie from the rope, thread it through your draws then either tie back up and let your partner lower you or coil the rope throw it and rap down. Then have the second clean the pitch. If your partner isnt gonna climb the route then just thread it through the chains or hangers directly instead of through your draws. Hope that helped...have fun and learn quick
Here is a perfect example of some one that should not be giving advice. Do not listen to this fool. A: it makes no sense B: He has no idea of what he is talking about.
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rendog
Aug 20, 2004, 12:31 AM
Post #30 of 48
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/me passes flaming torch over to kman/
flame on Kev
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chads93gt
Aug 20, 2004, 1:52 AM
Post #31 of 48
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hehe anyway I just got back from town. bought a book at the local book store. The author is Don Mellor. The book is Rock Climbing, a trailside guid, the ultimate illustrated guide.
Its a good book, tons of information, tons of pictures and illustrations and It even has pictures and illustrations showing how to do what I asked in the first place.
Again thanks from all those who gave helpful advice, and for those who gave advice on who's advice not to follow. thanks again.
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bebohaseltine
Aug 20, 2004, 5:35 PM
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Well, I certainly didn't mean to OFFEND as many people as I did. Wow.
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joneiche
Aug 20, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #33 of 48
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In reply to: All you have to do to get down the safe and curteous way is clip two of your draws into the chains or hangers , making sure the gates are opposing (unless thiers a feature in the way that would make it unsafe) clip a bite of the rope into your harness (i use a figure eight) untie from the rope, thread it through your draws then either tie back up and let your partner lower you or coil the rope throw it and rap down. Then have the second clean the pitch. If your partner isnt gonna climb the route then just thread it through the chains or hangers directly instead of through your draws. Hope that helped...have fun and learn quick
Why not just clip the draws? Maybe it is just me but untying to clip a draw is a little silly.
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bebohaseltine
Aug 20, 2004, 6:12 PM
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Also, in response to the guy who picked apart my post word for word, EVERYTHING i stated, EVERYTHING, is directly from a book. You can use quickdraws as part of your anchor if you want to, that's fine. I will not. And if you wanna lower off of the anchors themselves without gear (to move on to another climb), you should NEVER have someone just lower you off of them. If it's a bolt anchor, yes you'll obviously have to lower off of gear. but with chains (which are all i've ever dealed with), having someone lower you down through the chains puts dangerous wear on the chains. Anyways, I'm not trying to piss people off. If all he's seen is bolt anchors, than a lot of my post can be dismissed, but it's almost inevitable that he runs into some other types, and I'm giving info on those also.
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crimpandgo
Aug 20, 2004, 6:17 PM
Post #35 of 48
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bebohaseltine:
better grow a thick skin bro... there are sharks lurking in these waters just waiting to chew you up and spit out the bones. They get off on it ... and you have attracted a few of the best already. Congradulations :D
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killclimbz
Aug 20, 2004, 6:37 PM
Post #36 of 48
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In reply to: Also, in response to the guy who picked apart my post word for word, EVERYTHING i stated, EVERYTHING, is directly from a book. You can use quickdraws as part of your anchor if you want to, that's fine. I will not. And if you wanna lower off of the anchors themselves without gear (to move on to another climb), you should NEVER have someone just lower you off of them. If it's a bolt anchor, yes you'll obviously have to lower off of gear. but with chains (which are all i've ever dealed with), having someone lower you down through the chains puts dangerous wear on the chains. Anyways, I'm not trying to piss people off. If all he's seen is bolt anchors, than a lot of my post can be dismissed, but it's almost inevitable that he runs into some other types, and I'm giving info on those also.
Chain or bolt anchors what is the difference. Are not the chains fastened to the rock by a bolt. And what book are you reading anyway? How to climb by Mrs Smiths 1st grad class? What JT stated was 100% accurate.
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jt512
Aug 20, 2004, 7:20 PM
Post #37 of 48
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In reply to: Also, in response to the guy who picked apart my post word for word, EVERYTHING i stated, EVERYTHING, is directly from a book. You can use quickdraws as part of your anchor if you want to, that's fine. I will not. And if you wanna lower off of the anchors themselves without gear (to move on to another climb), you should NEVER have someone just lower you off of them. If it's a bolt anchor, yes you'll obviously have to lower off of gear. but with chains (which are all i've ever dealed with), having someone lower you down through the chains puts dangerous wear on the chains. Anyways, I'm not trying to piss people off. If all he's seen is bolt anchors, than a lot of my post can be dismissed, but it's almost inevitable that he runs into some other types, and I'm giving info on those also.
So far, every word you have posted -- in all three posts -- can, and should be, dismissed. You have no idea what you are talking about. How about shutting up and letting people that have actually climbed for a while answer the question.
As a moderator, I'm at a loss as to what to do with this thread. I should have moved the question to the beginners forum immediately, where there are new rules to discourage beginners from answering questions. I'm not sure what to do with the thread now. It contains more unintelligible, misleading misinformation than I've ever seen in any thread. Lock it? Move it to Community? Leave it alone, and let more clueless beginners offer dangerous advice?
-Jay
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robmcc
Aug 20, 2004, 7:29 PM
Post #38 of 48
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In reply to: Also, in response to the guy who picked apart my post word for word, EVERYTHING i stated, EVERYTHING, is directly from a book.
There's your problem.
When your answer is straight from a book and NOT backed by significant personal experience, it's a good idea to keep quiet and let someone else answer. I've read lots of books. I've even done this a few times. Not many, cuz I'm not much of a sport climber and I'm not fond of bolts, but a few. I know _exactly_ how to do this, but I'm not going to offer advice on it. There are a lot of people on this site who have done this thousands of times.
Now, let's you and I, who don't have that level of experience, sit back and let those who've done this more times than I've touched a rope answer. Mmmkay?
Rob
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rocdaug
Aug 20, 2004, 7:45 PM
Post #39 of 48
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my advice...
read books:
gym to crag is a good one
the how to rock climb series is good
have a look at everything you can find that talks about climbing and safety systems. it's all good to read.
take training from an accredited guide.
http://www.acmg.ca/
http://www.amga.com/
many different situations require different skills and proceedures. few, if any of these guys should be giving any advise (myself included). ...and those who show a glimmer tend to give advise from their own limited experience and community.
training from an accredited guide(s) will ensure you get the highest quality of training currently available. I have taken this advice myself and feel that this training has made me the type of safe climber I would like to climb with myself.
rd
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cracklover
Aug 20, 2004, 7:47 PM
Post #40 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: All you have to do to get down the safe and curteous way is clip two of your draws into the chains or hangers , making sure the gates are opposing (unless thiers a feature in the way that would make it unsafe) clip a bite of the rope into your harness (i use a figure eight) untie from the rope, thread it through your draws then either tie back up and let your partner lower you or coil the rope throw it and rap down. Then have the second clean the pitch. If your partner isnt gonna climb the route then just thread it through the chains or hangers directly instead of through your draws. Hope that helped...have fun and learn quick Why not just clip the draws? Maybe it is just me but untying to clip a draw is a little silly.
Yes, that's the main reason why I stated that his response made no sense.
GO
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redpointron
Aug 20, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #41 of 48
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chads93gt...
the absolute bottom line is this...
a book, of any sort, should only be used to supplement and complement (american heritage dictionary usage "something that completes or brings to perfection") experience gained from a knowledgeable teacher.
i would never take as gospel (read: trust my life to) anything explained to me on the computer.
i did a quick search and brainsurgery.com didn't have a forum for discussing procedures in the operating room because it's not practical. :shock:
i would be more than happy to show you if you make the trip to the red.
good luck and, above all, be safe.
r.r
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cracklover
Aug 20, 2004, 8:02 PM
Post #42 of 48
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In reply to: As a moderator, I'm at a loss as to what to do with this thread.
Eh, you can lock it if you like. The question has been answered right, wrong, and various things in between. Several times each! And the OP (who seems a good fellow) seems to have gotten what he needed.
On the other hand, there's a good argument for leaving a "useless" thread open. Sometimes a boneheaded thread, like a grain of sand in an oyster, can provide just the irritation needed to grow a pearl. Just such a pearl of wisdom was robmcc's post:
In reply to: In reply to: Also, in response to the guy who picked apart my post word for word, EVERYTHING i stated, EVERYTHING, is directly from a book. There's your problem. When your answer is straight from a book and NOT backed by significant personal experience, it's a good idea to keep quiet and let someone else answer. I've read lots of books. I've even done this a few times. Not many, cuz I'm not much of a sport climber and I'm not fond of bolts, but a few. I know _exactly_ how to do this, but I'm not going to offer advice on it. There are a lot of people on this site who have done this thousands of times. Now, let's you and I, who don't have that level of experience, sit back and let those who've done this more times than I've touched a rope answer. Mmmkay? Rob
That little nugget of wisdom is worthy of becoming required reading material for all posters to the Beginner's Forum.
That's why "useless" threads by and for gumbies/noobies, like the trolls that often imitate them, are sometimes not so useless in the end.
GO
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chads93gt
Aug 21, 2004, 3:57 AM
Post #43 of 48
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wow, didnt mean to make trouble for anyone, just wanted a question asked. books and lessons, hehe thats all i shoulda been told. but thanks, sorry for the bad thread.
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jstone
Aug 21, 2004, 6:44 AM
Post #44 of 48
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In reply to: wow, didnt mean to make trouble for anyone, just wanted a question asked. books and lessons, hehe thats all i shoulda been told. but thanks, sorry for the bad thread.
wow, jesus- this guy looks for answers, starts to get one or two decent posts/pushes in somewhat the right direction, and then BOOM!!!! sh_tty advice and loads of pissing all over each other. Agree- many "noob" (simply bad) posts; but did everyone lose track of this guy's needs? he's excited about driving 1.5 hours for 20 sport climbs- and new to sport. think about it- many of us have it much better than that- i'm sure there's a better way to provide some informative answers. i'm sorry- i have hardly posted at all, but i just felt bad for chads93gt.
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cracklover
Aug 23, 2004, 2:24 PM
Post #45 of 48
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In reply to: wow, didnt mean to make trouble for anyone, just wanted a question asked. books and lessons, hehe thats all i shoulda been told. but thanks, sorry for the bad thread.
No, it was a good, and a worthwhile thread. At least I think so. Jay may disagree.
At any rate, stop beating yourself up. You asked a question, and took the answers graciously. And _you_ weren't the one who gave out bad advice. And besides, it's just an internet forum, for god's sake.
GO
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andy_reagan
Aug 23, 2004, 3:20 PM
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The medium itself is inherently flawed. The results of this thread are indicative of this.
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caughtinside
Aug 23, 2004, 3:25 PM
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:shock: :shock: :shock:
Wow. Best thread of the year!
So much terrible and life-threatening advice on such a basic skill. Bravo! :lol:
Somebody needs to nominate Bebo for a certain thread in community...
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jt512
Aug 23, 2004, 3:34 PM
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jt512 has locked this thread.
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Re: Sport climbing questoin from a "noob"
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