nutcracker in a day.

nutcracker in a day.

My goal is to be able to on onsight 5.13 this winter.

training consists of training 3 days per week in the gym and one 1/2 day outdoors. ( I should do more outdoors but don't have the time)

at the gym I do 1 or 2 ARCs just below local lactate threshold (that is the fore arms), I also do continuous intensity repetitions (for example 15 V3s with 2 mins rest between each) power endurance traversing, 4X4s, and 6X8s.

at the crag I up and down climb routes just below my lactate threshold level for 10 - 15 min. each. Do several on sights, do laps on routes just below lactate threshold, and go for the maximum volume of routes in a day.

thanks for asking.

I’ve been going to the gym 2-3 times a week trying to push my limit (5.10-) and also focusing on technique on easier climbs (5.7ish). I try to lead trad once or twice a month.

Pat.

you do to need technique on a 5.7 climb. You need technique to climb anything, otherwise you wouldt get off the ground.

c'mon there jt, is that an elitist POST? :wink: You most certainly need technique for a 5.7, just as you do a 5.5 - albeit, not as much technique as a .9 or something, but a .7 you are not going to climb clean (typically) without any climbing experience.. A ladder CAN be climbed without climbing experience. My 7 yr old can climb a ladder, why can't she onsight any .7 she hits??? experience and technique!! BTW - isn't a ladder a 5.0/5.1 climbing anyways? Thats like comparing a 5.6 to a 5.10+, big diff.
Not to mention, leading a 5.6 is WAY different than TR'ing a 5.6 - the mental aspect of a new leader makes it more challenging.

i dont no why u people even bother posting to things, if you cant be nice. no one cares if u can onsight your 5.13's with barely any technique or watever, but the fact is for the majoritiy of the people in the world they cant just walk in and climb a 5.7. ive brung many people who never climbed to the gym and they can just climb a 5.5 . . . ..

I’ve been going to the gym 2-3 times a week trying to push my limit (5.10-) and also focusing on technique on easier climbs (5.7ish).
Pat.

Has anyone considered what he/she may mean is that they focus on technique at lower grades to engrain it for harder grades? That for many of us, esp. when pushing our limit, technique often flies right out the window if we're not conciously thinking about it.

Most 5.7 routes don't require the technique(s) needed climb 5.10. To climb the typical 5.7 gym route. You face the wall 90% of the time and climb it like you're climbing a ladder. Try doing that on 5.10. Unless you're quite strong, you'll find that you need an entirely different set of techniques to climb the route at all, much less, to climb it efficiently.
-Jay