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baja_java
Aug 30, 2004, 11:12 PM
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hi. thinking of Southeast Buttress + Eichorn summit, but actually more apprehensive about the descent than the climbing. have read from the SuperTopo book that the way off of Cathedral Peak includes a short downclimb on belay, plus zig zag ledges and slabs before hitting the ridge and the sandy trail back down to the base. any parts especially sketchy? are the zig zag ledges and slabs fairly easy to spot? if you've come down this way, would love to hear your take
the book also mentioned a 70' rap down Eichorn Pinnacle and scrambling down 3rd class to drop in on the John Muir trail on the other side facing Cathedral Lake. worthwhile? not worthwhile?
much thanks
sean
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crotch
Aug 30, 2004, 11:21 PM
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That's the funny thing about topos. If you hadn't read that you would have done the climb, done the descent and not even thought twice about it.
Enjoy the rap off of Eichorn.
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maculated
Aug 30, 2004, 11:26 PM
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Crotch is right.
It's fairly straightforward . . . during the day . . .
Anyway - there's usually parties ahead of you, follow them.
Picking up the Cathedral Lake trail is fine so long as you don't leave gear back at the base. It's also slightly longer, I think.
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voltzwgn
Aug 30, 2004, 11:33 PM
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You'll have to climb up Eichorn before you can rapel off, it's a great 5.4 climb lots of adventure to it. We did Cathedral and Eichorn's and then went back up over the ridge and down the sandy trail. Not a bad descent at all. Just be sure to work you way over to the natural notch in the ridge. It looked to be better than working down the slabs to the Muir trail, this way maybe a bit shorter too.
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 31, 2004, 12:08 AM
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Unless you are looking for more exercise, don't go out the cathedral lakes trail.
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carbo
Aug 31, 2004, 12:57 AM
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The downclimb from the very summit isn't bad, you can leave a piece of pro and be belayed down. Then traverse left around the summit block and downclimb or rap the slaps untill you can traverse to Eichon.
As the others said the decent is no problem and go back by the way of Notch , sandy trail and Budd creek...
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baja_java
Aug 31, 2004, 1:52 AM
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thanks, all!
yeah, if i hadn't read that little paragraph in the guidebook, might've done the thing by now... haha
very cool. looking forward to the meadow again, and the buttermilks
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edge
Aug 31, 2004, 1:53 PM
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For what it's worth, when I was just up there I lowered my daughter the 20 feet or so to the big ledge then rapped off myself. The two summit blocks pinch together and there was two pieces of webbing threaded through and left in place.
Follow the obvious ledges zig zagging down for 50 feet or so then you should find a sizeable shrub with spectra cord and a rap ring. One 80' rap over low angle slabs lead you to more manageable ledge systems. We trended towards Eichorn before cutting across the base and reascending to the notch.
Although it is third class, a fall would have serious repercussions. We remained roped together until the base of Eichorn, weaving in and out of the bushes as intermediate points and simul-down climbing.
Have fun, it's a great route!
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dingus
Aug 31, 2004, 2:51 PM
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Once you get down from the summit block and come through the notch you'll find yourself on a ledge. That ledge you're on, if you look down and left toward Eichorn's... you'll see a line of bushes outlining your descent. Follow the trail behind said bushes till you're perched on some blocks over nearer the botton of Eichorns. A couple of butt scootch moves and you're down. Then you traverse back across, left back to right (looking down from your original position) to gain the climber's trail back to the base of the peak.
I wouldn't go out the John Manure Trail. But I WOULD (and have, many times) instead of descending back to the base of the peak, continue north on the Cathedral Peak ridge for as far as you care to go. At one point a 30 class 4 drop off will stymie you if you are uncomfortable downclimbing 4th. Rap instead. But down bouldering is a helluva lot faster (so is falling for that matter!). Eventually you just scamble down to the east off the ridge and pick up the climber's trail you used that morning to approach the peak.
The reason I like this descent is I dig alpine ridge traverses. While this is no Matthes Crest, it IS a ridge and offers stupendous views with casual hiking (except for that 30 wall). Don't try to find the trail in the dark though. If it is getting late, best to come down the same way as everyone else. This will add an hour or two to your descent.
If you do Eichorn's, do it in STYLE:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=37659
That's my Bro Angus. No rope up, no rope down. That'll stand your world on its head, eh? Lose your mind, lose your dreams.
Cheers
DMT
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brianinslc
Aug 31, 2004, 8:13 PM
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In reply to: If you do Eichorn's, do it in STYLE
Or, rap it...with style...I suppose...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=39001
From last week...nice weather, a bit windy. Great route. Highly recommended.
We hiked across the easy low angle slabs and back to the John "Manure" trail from Cathedral Lake to the road. Easy as pie. If you head straight across you'll start runnin' into a reasonably well-worn social trail with cairns that leads you down the no-hands hike-able route into the forest, then the trail is right there.
Cheers!
Brian in SLC
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hendicrimpin
Aug 31, 2004, 8:23 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
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if you're around for another day than go hit up Mathis Crest...definitely one of my favorite climbing experiences.
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