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rockfax
Aug 31, 2004, 4:46 AM
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Following on from the "origins of sit-down starts" thread. Thank you for all the illuminating replies.
Does anyone know what the hardest sit-down start boulder problem is?
cheers.......ears,
Mick
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vanclimber
Aug 31, 2004, 5:04 AM
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Black Eagle Sit Down V15 South Africa FA Fred Nicole
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microbdcamalot
Aug 31, 2004, 5:06 AM
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Pussies finish last, secret spot on long island...7 move, .15 foot v13
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mattmax45
Aug 31, 2004, 5:31 AM
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Van,
do u have any info on black eagle?
Some of the hardest sit down starts in the world are still projects, and are probably close to getting done. One I personally know of starts off sitting down, right hand on a sloping 3/8" three tip wide crimp "main starter hold", left hand hold is a mono crimp pinch, and the only fool hold is a less than s--- tiny little toe catch way out left 1/4" tip, thin, very thin. Thats the start, then lundge 2.5 feet upward to the thin 1/4" edge crimps that make up a vanishing seem that goes for ten more feet, this project barely has any decent footholds, the moves are very static with big reaches, and if it ever goes, we'll let you know, if you can figure a grade on this one let us know we can't ever conceive the grade. But thats very local and who knows what else there will be in the future.
Hope thats interesting to you. Later. Matt :D :D :D
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hema
Aug 31, 2004, 5:35 AM
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Might be Torino 56 or somthing like it. If I remember correctly the original route was v14 and this new extention adds four or five moves and the overall grade is v16.
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vanclimber
Aug 31, 2004, 1:35 PM
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Unfortunately I couldn't find any more info....I just figured that if it was V15 and Sit Down was in its name then it must be the hardest one.
btw: projects haven't been sent therefore they are not real climbs yet. There are tons of projects as hard as can possibly be imagined in Squamish near where I live that have not been sent yet.
Don
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andy_reagan
Aug 31, 2004, 8:22 PM
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Full Throttle (about V13?). Now, this isn't rated as high as Nicole's problem, but if you do Throttle standing its only V5!
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traddad
Aug 31, 2004, 8:51 PM
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Psycho Vertical on Torre Egger. With the sit down start, it's a bear.
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mattmax45
Sep 1, 2004, 3:45 AM
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In reply to: Unfortunately I couldn't find any more info....I just figured that if it was V15 and Sit Down was in its name then it must be the hardest one. btw: projects haven't been sent therefore they are not real climbs yet. There are tons of projects as hard as can possibly be imagined in Squamish near where I live that have not been sent yet. Don
I'm with ya Don,
however the project I mentioned although not finished almost went so, it may or may not be a new break through in super high grade short problems, when it goes it may likely be quite a bit harder than V14, respectfully of course, V14 is no easy grade, but we've never seen anything even close to this grade anywhere, the proj. is almost unconcievable, I wish we could get Fredric to take alook, I bet he'd sh--.
Take it easy man, Matt :D
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denmarkbob
Sep 1, 2004, 3:49 AM
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my buddy iron pete is the king of the sit start...a full on specialist...his route on the prow of the middleton boulder from the sit is one of the sickest things i've seen..he says its his hardest..and thats coming from the king :twisted:
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 4:21 AM
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Sit down starts are sooooo passe. We have upped the ante and moved on to lie down starts in Arizona--these are substantially harder, of course.
Curt
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rockfax
Sep 1, 2004, 5:01 AM
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In reply to: Sit down starts are sooooo passe. We have upped the ante and moved on to lie down starts in Arizona--these are substantially harder, of course. Curt
Passeee Kurt, as the heroic French would say. Me and the Fish were doing crawl starts of up to two miles over broken glass and through sewage plants, with both hands tied behind our backs, and blindfolded, and if I could vote I'd vote Democrat.
Beat that you Republican pussy.
M
I gather you've heard the Yorkshireman sketch from Monty Python or are you too busy listening to Rush popping pills and reading whatisface Hannershy.
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 5:09 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sit down starts are sooooo passe. We have upped the ante and moved on to lie down starts in Arizona--these are substantially harder, of course. Curt Passeee Kurt, as the heroic French would say. Me and the Fish were doing crawl starts of up to two miles over broken glass and through sewage plants.........
Apparantly a good bit of that stuck.
Curt
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mattmax45
Sep 1, 2004, 5:34 AM
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In reply to: my buddy iron pete is the king of the sit start...a full on specialist...his route on the prow of the middleton boulder from the sit is one of the sickest things i've seen..he says its his hardest..and thats coming from the king :twisted:
Bob,
Iron pete sounds like a strong man indeed, tell me more of him, and what kind of rock he preferes.
Later Bob, Matt :D
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stupidboulderer
Sep 1, 2004, 8:17 AM
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why the hell would any climber in his right mind vote REPUBLICAN? Just a reminder, but republicans are against conservation, the environment, and the poor...
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michelleh
Sep 1, 2004, 10:21 AM
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I don't boulder, but I read about a problem in Amazon.com (a forest in the Western Cape of South Africa) that starts in front of an old (disused?) leopard cave! I think putting your unmentionables in front of a cave that may or may not have a leopard in it must make it one of the hardest sit-starts!!
Can't remember the name, will try and find the article again in SA Mountain, a local magazine...
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vanclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 1:08 PM
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I have to agree with you michelleh, that would be an awfully hard SDS. There is an area on the North Walls of the Chief (major bouldering area in Squamish) called the Burial Grounds due to the fact that the developers found a bag of Cougar bones hidden amongst the boulders! Skull and everything...so maybe a haunted SDS would also be one of the hardest?
Don
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irockz
Sep 1, 2004, 6:36 PM
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who did this v13 on long island?
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curt
Sep 1, 2004, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: why the hell would any climber in his right mind vote REPUBLICAN? Just a reminder, but republicans are against conservation, the environment, and the poor...
You seem to have chosen a most appropriate screen name.
Curt
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alpinerock
Sep 2, 2004, 12:44 AM
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Umm, the sit down start to Copperhead up AF goes at V13, not quite black eagle but still sick!
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mattmax45
Sep 2, 2004, 12:55 AM
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In reply to: Umm, the sit down start to Copperhead up AF goes at V13, not quite black eagle but still sick!
Do you know what that entails, the order of moves? and what they're like. :D
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rockfax
Sep 2, 2004, 4:26 AM
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Two good replys Cap'n Curt. Almost bumper-sticker worthy.
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alpinerock
Sep 2, 2004, 9:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Umm, the sit down start to Copperhead up AF goes at V13, not quite black eagle but still sick! Do you know what that entails, the order of moves? and what they're like. :D
Umm i've never done the sitdown start, and i haven't sent the standup start(guidebook V10 but more like V9) yet, but i think the sit start, starts on a sick sloper with your left hand that i have trouble just edging on, and what looks like a fingernail crimper with your right hand and then you fire to a sidepull scrimp with your left, and a crimper with your right hand and then pull a long reach to a crimper with your left hand and then its hiking(as in V6 hiking) to the top, the problem is probaly about 15 feet tall and is over hung at 115-120 degrees the whole time.
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mattmax45
Sep 3, 2004, 5:48 AM
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Cool alpine,
that sounds like fun. Where is it located, Africa or Morrocco?
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curt
Sep 3, 2004, 5:53 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Umm, the sit down start to Copperhead up AF goes at V13, not quite black eagle but still sick! Do you know what that entails, the order of moves? and what they're like. :D Umm i've never done the sitdown start, and i haven't sent the standup start(guidebook V10 but more like V9) yet.......
Well, I have done the regular Copperhead and its V10, retard. Don't try to rate things you haven't done. Duh.
Curt
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