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darkside
Sep 3, 2004, 12:29 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
Posts: 1687
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OK it may not exactly be a "roadtrip" as I usually think of one but I am heading back to Britain for a month. I started climbing after I moved to Canada so have never done much climbing back in Yorkshire but want to check it out more. I generally have too many family to visit in a 2 week visit but this time will have a month to get a few days of climbing in here and there, weather permitting.
I will be flying over there next week around the 9th September 2004 and staying until the first week of October. I will be staying with family in Rotherham and looking to climb anywhere around there or beyond Sheffield around the Peak District. I don't mind climbing limestone but I want to get on the grit again as it is a long time since I was on it last.
I will be bringing my rack, just my single rope (no room for my doubles :( ) and will be happy to lead up to around 5.9 but need a translator for the adjective grades :? If anyone is interested in climbing, offering beta, or wants to rope up then either e-mail me using the button below or post here. My mother doesn't even have a computer though so I will have to try checking out messages whenever I can after next week. Does anyone know if the public libraries have free internet access in Britain just as libraries across North America do?
So does anyone want to climb some gritstone? :righton:
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chr1s
Sep 3, 2004, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2004
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Hey man,
I learnt to climb out here in canada too, and the few trips I've made back to the UK I always try to get a few days in on gritstone. It's an awsome style of climbing.
There are many places to climb, Stanage is probably the biggest, but most popular. Also ckeck out Curbar, Frogatt and the Roaches to name but a few. Week days are way better, but even they get crowded after 5ish from the after work crew.
I wouldn't worry about not having double ropes. Many of the routes are way shorter than 30m (20m is more usual) so if the route wanders you can double up your single and lead off both ends.
As for the grades, it's no worries. 5.9 equates to around UK 5a. And a climb of technical difficulty should have an adjectival grading of HVS. (S 4a, HS 4b, VS 4c, HVS 5a, E1 5b - roughly...) This would represent a climb of "normal" difficulty and protection. If the adjectival grading is higher, eg E1 5a, it means that your 5.9 climb probably doesn't take much gear, or could be very sustained and/or strenuous. A lower adjectival grade would mean that the climb is very well protected and/or it is mostly easier climbing with just a short well protected 5a crux.
Get it?
I would reccomend having a lot of LONG slings/cordalete (sp?). Although the routes are usually walk off the options for setting up a belay to bring up the second of often limited (no anchor bolts here!!!). There are usually no trees on the cliff tops and occasionall no gear placements, so slinging big boulders is the way to go.
You will have an awesome time - provided it stays dry.....
Chhers,
Chris.
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cgailey
Sep 3, 2004, 3:08 AM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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Gritstone would scare the poo out of me...just watching videos makes me cringe. Hat's off to you boys and your grande cojones :righton:
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darkside
Sep 3, 2004, 8:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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In reply to: I would reccomend having a lot of LONG slings/cordalete (sp?). Although the routes are usually walk off the options for setting up a belay to bring up the second of often limited (no anchor bolts here!!!). There are usually no trees on the cliff tops and occasionall no gear placements, so slinging big boulders is the way to go.
I get the basic premise of the Brit scale but never really seen it applied because I just let whoever I was with pick out the routes so I still think of the routes in terms of YDS.
I'm looking forward to seeing the family again (3 years since my last visit) but I'm also looking forward to getting on grit again.
Chad: fortunately they also have some soft grit waiting for me. :roll:
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studs
Sep 9, 2004, 10:39 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2003
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Dont know about others but the library in Sheffield has free internet
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darkside
Sep 14, 2004, 10:00 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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I have found free internet in the Rotherham Public Library too (right now :D ) but it means I have limited access. Thanks for the info though.
Does anyone know about the climbing club here in Rotherham?
I'm bloody jonesing, and I even took a trip out to Stanage last weekend to do a little soloing (easy stuff). I need to rope up bad. :righton:
Please help me. :roll:
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